Cat 977L - safely locking the lifting arms upright

Its been a long time but didn't they have a brace that would be stored on the tilt cyl using the two blocks shown in the second picture

Greg

Hi, ksliger.
The later Cat track loaders did have a brace that slipped over the extended lift ram rod between the ram cylinder and the rod end to hold them up in the raised position - often stored under the seat at the rear and usually painted RED.

Just my 0.02.

Is this the piece that you're looking for?

 [attachment=77257]Screenshot_20240731-124806.png[/attachment]

Should look something like this;

 [attachment=77258]Screenshot_20240731-202338.png[/attachment]
 

Yes, that’s it, thank you! Now the hard part is going to be finding one. If anyone knows of a scrap machine with one please let me know.

Hi, ksliger.
I made one for a Cat 941 many years ago. Nope. it was NOT certified but it never failed either. I made it from heavy wall rectangular box section and put U-shaped end plates on each end. I used 5" X 2 1/2" X 1/4" wall with one edge cut out - worked for me and for the bloke (guy) i was working for at the time.

Just my 0.02.

Thank you! I was just thinking to myself today how I would go about fabricating one. This is very helpful info! You don't have a picture by chance, do you?

Hi, ksliger.
I wish I did but I don't.

If doing it again, I would measure the length of exposed rod when the bucket is fully raised, subtract a couple of inches to make it easier to get the finished product into place and call that the finished length. Then I'd cut a piece of box section about an inch shorter, cut one edge out of it to allow placement over the rod and weld 1/2' U-shaped plates to both ends slightly bigger than the outside dimensions of the box section and maybe 1' X1/2" flat bar to both sides all the way along the sides of the edge that you cut out for extra stiffening. Then I would drill about 1/2" clear holes near or in that flat bar to allow pins or bolts to be put right through the safety bar to prevent it falling off in the event of an accidental hit.

Those holes and pins could possibly also be used to secure the bar to the machine - - - - so that you don't lose it.

I would not use anything less than about 1/4" wall thickness for the main tube. Being that this material may not be high tensile, it might not be a bad idea to weld a length of 1/2" flat bar along the closed edge of the box section for added strength - might make it heavier but better safe than dead sorry.

On another note. the side or tailgate of a tipping truck does a pretty fair job too.

Hope this helps.

Just my 0.02.