Cat 955H Air Beather

Run a hose from the breather down to below the edge of the block to let that blow-by gas miss the engine. Is there still a coarse steel wool type packing in the crankcase breather canister? If it is still in there your new engine may have too much blow-by. Sure you have the right amount of oil in it? Correct dipstick and pan?

Blow-by on a newly installed engine sometimes gets better with time and sometimes goes the other way. Couple years ago we went through that process on a "new to us" old D7E. It had a strong "huff" to it if you tried to take the oil filler cap off with it running. Within a couple hundred hours, it got so bad we had to overhaul it. Looking at the sleeves it was obvious that the engine had been stuck at one time and looking at the pistons, the reason for the huffing was also obvious.

The engine I put in the loader had about 2000 hours, not bad for the age of the machine. I should have paid more attention to the old one, didn't realize there were differences in the breather. I don't think my original engine had anything but the filler to add oil, no breather type on it.

There doesn't seem to be much blow by although I'm not sure what to look for. Where the tube should be on the breather (on the valve pan) it just has a opening that spits out some oil. The breather has a small oil bath and screen but after running last summer with it going straight out, it got quite a bit of oil on the engine which also got picked up by the fan so the radiator needs cleaned. I want to fix it before I clean everything up.

If I am understanding right, just run a hose below the block so it doesn't blow all over the engine? The oil filler hole also has a screen and a place for a tube or hose, should I also run a tube from that below the block?

Like I said, I should have paid more attention to the old one. I had to use the oil pan, dip stick, etc. from the old engine but am going to change that. Since the new engine was stationary it only holds about 2 gal of oil and I am careful not to climb or go down too steep or my oil pressure drops. The guy who converted the engine for me used the old oil pan because the tube from the oil pump wasn't long enough for the oil pan from the original engine. I have a machine shop who is going to make a new pipe for the pump so I can put the original oil pan back on.
Thanks again,
Gary

If I'm interpreting correctly the oil pan may be part of your problem. Industrial engines don't have the oil pump scavenge pick ups like tractors do. Also may be a much shallower pan. Result is the crankshaft can whip up the oil into a froth and overwhelm the normal ventilation and air/oil separation.

You should have used the oil pan oil pump and pick-up tubes/screens from the original tractor engine, allowing the oil pressure to drop when working on steep slopes is going to cause a failure.

I see that now, makes sense on the difference in the engines. I have been careful with it, staying off slopes, hope I didn't damage the engine. I am going to change this back to the original oil pan before I run it again.

Compare the oil pumps, the industrial unit may not have a scavenge section in it.

The mechanic that converted the generator engine to the tractor didn't keep the old pump, he's gone now, no way to contact him. What does it look like, the scavenge section? Is it a different pump or attachment to the pump? Sounds like I might have to replace the pump, I should have checked all of this out before the transition, hope I can fix it now.
Gary

The correct pump is two section with a suction bell directly into the main sump and a second suction tube which goes right to the back of the oil pan, bolted to the sump plate, near the flywheel housing. Old Magnet will be able to confirm if the engines have different pumps, I believe they have.

Should have kept the old parts, it would make things a lot easier.

I took pictures of my breather to make sure I am describing it right.