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Cat 951C

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hdroadkingc
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I am looking at buying a 1980 Cat 951C. The only problem with it is the ring gear on the flywheel needs replacing. My question is how hard is this to fix. Can you get the flywheel out without taking the engine, or transmission out of the machine, or can you replace the ring gear with the flywheel still in the machine. Thanks
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Thu, Oct 21, 2010 9:34 AM
tctractors
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The fly-wheel can be removed without taking big chunks out, drive it up on a few Baulks of timber and set to from underneath also remove the floor plates to clear the Haze a bit👍

tctractors
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Thu, Oct 21, 2010 1:27 PM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to tctractors:
The fly-wheel can be removed without taking big chunks out, drive it up on a few Baulks of timber and set to from underneath also remove the floor plates to clear the Haze a bit👍

tctractors
Hi, Hdroadkingc.
TCTractors's method for removing the flywheel is only the third best way of doing it. The BEST way is to have somebody who knows what they are doing come in and do the job. LOL.

The second best way is if you have access to a workshop with a service pit built in that you can park the machine over and stand up under it to work on it.

If you don't have access to either of the above then by all means go to TC's way. It's just that TC has been so used to doing things the HARD way for so long now that I think he may have forgotten that other, easier ways exist. Heck, I've even heard that he still drives a Land Rover. Having said that, by all the reports that I have heard, TC DOES know what he is doing and 'gits her dunn'.

If you can get in there with a high pressure cleaner and remove any accumulated gunk before you start, it will likely make things easier.

👍

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Fri, Oct 22, 2010 3:40 AM
hdroadkingc
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Hdroadkingc.
TCTractors's method for removing the flywheel is only the third best way of doing it. The BEST way is to have somebody who knows what they are doing come in and do the job. LOL.

The second best way is if you have access to a workshop with a service pit built in that you can park the machine over and stand up under it to work on it.

If you don't have access to either of the above then by all means go to TC's way. It's just that TC has been so used to doing things the HARD way for so long now that I think he may have forgotten that other, easier ways exist. Heck, I've even heard that he still drives a Land Rover. Having said that, by all the reports that I have heard, TC DOES know what he is doing and 'gits her dunn'.

If you can get in there with a high pressure cleaner and remove any accumulated gunk before you start, it will likely make things easier.

👍
Thanks for the replies. Its great news the engine and trans. can stay in. I was not looking forward to doing either of those.
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Fri, Oct 22, 2010 6:37 AM
catsilver
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Reply to hdroadkingc:
Thanks for the replies. Its great news the engine and trans. can stay in. I was not looking forward to doing either of those.
To make the job as easy as possible, get hold of a couple of guide studs 5/8" NF about 8 inches long to slide the flywheel on and off, and get a good helper up in the cab with a pull-lift, thats an awful heavy flywheel to fall on you when you are trapped underneath.
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Fri, Oct 22, 2010 3:55 PM
hdroadkingc
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Reply to catsilver:
To make the job as easy as possible, get hold of a couple of guide studs 5/8" NF about 8 inches long to slide the flywheel on and off, and get a good helper up in the cab with a pull-lift, thats an awful heavy flywheel to fall on you when you are trapped underneath.
I now have the tractor at my house. After taking the starter off to check the flywheel, I dont see a problem with the ring gear, but I can only rotate the engine 3/4 of the way around. It stops at the same place every time. Is it possable to have water in the cylinders from sitting (over 2 years) and will not let it rotate? There was water in the oil pan when I drained it. If there is water in the cylinders, how do you get it out? Thanks
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Sun, Nov 7, 2010 2:48 AM
ccjersey
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I would pull the injectors and see if that will allow it to turn over past the spot where it stops now.

If it does, and you get water up out of it, I would turn the engine over with the starter and let it blow out all the water it will. You might be able to put a thin straw down through the precombustion chamber and suck out any water in the top of the piston with a syringe. Then put in oil and let that get distributed around/ blow out all the excess before replacing the injectors and starting it up.

You're always taking a chance if you don't remove the head and look inside, but that's a lot of work. If removing the injectors doesn't help, then it's off with the head! Many times some squirrel will have filled a cylinder with seeds etc through an open exhaust valve.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Nov 7, 2010 3:16 AM
hdroadkingc
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Reply to ccjersey:
I would pull the injectors and see if that will allow it to turn over past the spot where it stops now.

If it does, and you get water up out of it, I would turn the engine over with the starter and let it blow out all the water it will. You might be able to put a thin straw down through the precombustion chamber and suck out any water in the top of the piston with a syringe. Then put in oil and let that get distributed around/ blow out all the excess before replacing the injectors and starting it up.

You're always taking a chance if you don't remove the head and look inside, but that's a lot of work. If removing the injectors doesn't help, then it's off with the head! Many times some squirrel will have filled a cylinder with seeds etc through an open exhaust valve.
Pulled all the injectors and it still wont turn past that point. Is there anything else I can check before pulling the head?
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Sun, Nov 7, 2010 4:32 AM
ccjersey
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I would start by critically examining anything attached to the engine that could be locking it up, clutch, transmission, hydraulic pumps etc, but since you know it got water in it, if it was through an open stack, I would remove the exhaust manifold and see what's in there. If you see nuts or mud dauber nests, then I think you have your answer and can take off the head knowing it needs to come off.

Does the engine stop hard against something or squishy? Can you gain any by repeatedly bumping the obstruction in each direction? I'm wondering if you are compressing foreign material like nuts or scraping rust above where the piston was resting when the water got in or perhaps you already have a bent rod and it's hitting the bottom of the sleeve. (look in the inspection covers along the lower part of the block (does it have any?)). What's the history of this machine? Maybe someone else tried to start it with water in the cylinder?

If you find that you're dealing with "critter debris" in a cylinder, it might be possible to remove the precombustion chamber and the exhaust manifold and then get enough airflow with compressed air through there to clear any debris out of the cylinder if you can open the exhaust valve or it's already open (probably is). The piston will probably want to move downward to BDC if you build up any pressure in the cylinder, so don't let that cause a problem for you somehow.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Nov 7, 2010 4:48 AM
zootownjeepguy
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Reply to ccjersey:
I would start by critically examining anything attached to the engine that could be locking it up, clutch, transmission, hydraulic pumps etc, but since you know it got water in it, if it was through an open stack, I would remove the exhaust manifold and see what's in there. If you see nuts or mud dauber nests, then I think you have your answer and can take off the head knowing it needs to come off.

Does the engine stop hard against something or squishy? Can you gain any by repeatedly bumping the obstruction in each direction? I'm wondering if you are compressing foreign material like nuts or scraping rust above where the piston was resting when the water got in or perhaps you already have a bent rod and it's hitting the bottom of the sleeve. (look in the inspection covers along the lower part of the block (does it have any?)). What's the history of this machine? Maybe someone else tried to start it with water in the cylinder?

If you find that you're dealing with "critter debris" in a cylinder, it might be possible to remove the precombustion chamber and the exhaust manifold and then get enough airflow with compressed air through there to clear any debris out of the cylinder if you can open the exhaust valve or it's already open (probably is). The piston will probably want to move downward to BDC if you build up any pressure in the cylinder, so don't let that cause a problem for you somehow.
Sounds like you could have a valve stuck open. The piston will come up and hit the stuck valve and stop right there. I'd pull the valve cover off and check to see if there is a valve stuck open. Stuck valves can usually be freed up with penetrating oil and tapping lightly on the valve working it back & forth. Be sure to oil the stem before starting the engine because penetrating oil isn't the best lubricant and will evaporate quickly.
Rich Salvaggio
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'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
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Sun, Nov 7, 2010 7:08 AM
hdroadkingc
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Reply to zootownjeepguy:
Sounds like you could have a valve stuck open. The piston will come up and hit the stuck valve and stop right there. I'd pull the valve cover off and check to see if there is a valve stuck open. Stuck valves can usually be freed up with penetrating oil and tapping lightly on the valve working it back & forth. Be sure to oil the stem before starting the engine because penetrating oil isn't the best lubricant and will evaporate quickly.


This sounds like a possibility. I will pull the valve cover and check the valves.
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Sun, Nov 7, 2010 8:54 AM
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