Reply to bob:
[quote="ETD66SS"]So I ran my 225 out of fuel last Saturday. I filled it up, primed it, as everything seemed fine. However, since then, I need to prime it every day I want to use it. It starts fine, but when I run it, it lacks power and gyrates when driving. If I get out and re-prime, it works fine for the rest of the day.
I will replace the fuel filter today, but I'm not sure that is the problem, because the re-prime works. If the filter was clogged, re-priming would not get me the power back.
I guess maybe I have an air leak, and the only thing I touched was the petcock valve. Maybe that is not closing all the way?[/quote]
Gene, take off the small fuel return line from the pump to the tank. Blow air through it untill it's clear, you should hear it with the cap off the tank.
Later Bob
Hi Team,
the sleeve metering pumps have a problem with air being able to be trapped under the rack set housing.
At least on the 3208 you can bleed this air out by loosening the pin timing bolt--9/16" head plug/bolt on the small odd shaped housing behind the top cover over the Governor housing.
This air bubble needs to be compressed by the transfer pump pressure to get the fuel level above the plunger ports to enable the fuel to be pumped to the injectors-long crank time for engine to start.
After shutdown the pressure disipates and the trapped air expands again and again needs to be compressed for the next start to occur.
As Bob said, if the fuel return orifice in the bleed valve does not let some 9 gallons of fuel per hour return to the tank air will also build up in the pump and cause the symptoms.
Hope scan below helps you to find the bleed/pin timing plug/bolt--loosen the bolt just enough to allow the trapped air/fuel to escape.
This needs to be done anytime you run out of fuel or fit the pump to the engine or sometimes when the fuel filter is changed air is introduced from a dry/empty filter.
Cheers,
Eddie B.