Cat 22 steering clutch question

You have nothing to lose soaking it Pete because even if it doesn't break free when you refit the motor and can drive it, or tie it to a tree, at least you will find the internals loosened for you particularly if you can rotate the rear sprockets every month or so just to make sure the whole clutch pack get's wet. I've used a citric acid solution on a stuck RD6 steering clutch pack with success, the citric acid actually dissolves the rust away leaving bare metal so you have the potential to reduce the clutch pack thickness if it has been swollen by rust, the problem with the smaller Cats is that you do not have a lot of engine HP at your disposal to free a rusted clutch pack because in my humble and inexpert opinion the Cat steering clutch packs are over engineered and could probably handle twice the engine HP easily.

Be aware though that if you use diesel first then you will not have much or as much success using citric acid as the diesel will create a waterproof layer on the metal, plus I find the citric acid solution slows down in cooler weather, so if the tractor is outside with snow around I doubt the acid will work hardly at all till late spring.
Good luck
Mike

Thanks, Mike. You stopped me from pouring diesel in just in time. I will use the citric acid solution if I get the time this winter otherwise the process will start next spring when I get back to the 22.

Is there any harmful effect to the machine's components from the citric acid if left in too long?

Pete

[quote="Peter C"]Thanks, Mike. You stopped me from pouring diesel in just in time. I will use the citric acid solution if I get the time this winter otherwise the process will start next spring when I get back to the 22.

Is there any harmful effect to the machine's components from the citric acid if left in too long?

Pete[/quote]

That's a good question Pete, on my RD6 I can say no, the left steering clutch that soaked in citric acid for about 8 weeks works great, it is easier to pull on the lever than the right side but never slips, nor do the bearings make any odd noises, I think it is easier to pull on the left lever because possibly the clutch pack springs are half rusted through after sitting in water for years and so do not create the same pressure on the steering clutch lever, but I'm the first to admit I'm dumber than everyone here.

I've used citric acid successfully 50 or 60 times over the past 5 years on small nuts and bolts up to complete sets of tracks on my small Cats like the Fifteen and the only time I've had an issue with it was with a pilot motor head I left sitting in the solution over winter for about 6 weeks trying to clean out the cooling passages, I had been told by a "Expert" citric acid was completely harmless to steel but I discovered on machined surfaces like that head it slightly etched the machined surface, but to be honest I might have had the solution too strong, like 1 cup of powder to 2 gallons of water as no one has ever given me the proper ratio, so it has been a suck it and see deal.

I'd suggest you use about 1 cup of citric acid powder dissolved in enough hot water to fill the steering clutch compartment, and if you can find some way to gently agitate the solution even better, I used a cheap $10 fish tank pump on my RD6 though there is much more open space in the RD6 steering clutch compartment compared to the 22's and you will find citric acid works much faster in warm weather, on your steering clutches for example it will have all the rust dissolved away in just 10-14 days if the daytime temps are 80, if temps are down to 35 then expect it to take a month or more. Be aware you will probably find the solution might pass through the old oil seals into the gearbox and final drive cases though I assume you will be draining the old oil out of them over winter so it should not be a concern.

If you have never used citric acid before mix up some in a 2 gallon bucket, say half a cup of acid in that volume of water and sit a few rusty bolts or parts in the solution and put it somewhere safe inside for a couple of weeks obviously away from young kids, I've found it completely benign and never bother using gloves when handling parts in the solution, I mean it is used as a food preservative and most of us drink it or eat it every day, you could use Coke or Dr Pepper over a longer period of time for a similar result as most sodas contain citric acid, you will find a thin grey, mud like sludge develops on the parts if the solution is not being gently agitated.

Good luck, you have nothing to lose Pete, because if you have to split that tractor to pull the steering clutch allow at least 2 weeks, I've done two D2's now and it takes a lot longer than you think it will because you end up replacing more parts than you intended.
Regards
Mike

It varies. I have had only one clutch free itself. All others (several) I had to replace the clutch pack. You're probably going to find the clutch pack is rusted and seized in the drum. Might shatter the drum when you go to remove the final drive due to the clutch being stuck inside the drum. I have had three clutches come out of the brake drum very easy, have had two drums shatter when attempting to remove the final drive to get at the clutch.

Speaking about a D2 (22 is similar), If you remove the seat tank, and contort yourself just right, you can look through the holes there and kind of see the brake drum and the back side of the clutch pack. You can maybe get an idea of the amount of rust.

After doing several clutches, it isn't that bad a job. And if you go in there you can examine the throw out bearing and such, making sure all that is good.

Not sure anyone mentioned this, but look under the final to verify the small plug is in place. It might be removed.

Also, maybe you are kind of jumping the gun somewhat. Why not get the engine running and see then if the clutch breaks free? I'd look down in the clutch housing and see if there is water or rust. Then remove the plug at the bottom of the final and make sure any water runs out. Then leave the plug out and get your engine running. Then drive it. If it is stuck, then address the issue.

Mike and Arthropod, thanks for the advice. I'll wait until warmer weather to begin work on it rather than soaking it now. I did see the backs of the clutch packs and could see the right clutch release but the left one wouldn't move when I pried on the throw out arm.

I just know that keeping my fingers crossed and holding my mouth right will help get it released so that I don't have to take it apart. Right?

Thanks
Pete

[quote="Peter C"]Mike and Arthropod, thanks for the advice. I'll wait until warmer weather to begin work on it rather than soaking it now. I did see the backs of the clutch packs and could see the right clutch release but the left one wouldn't move when I pried on the throw out arm.

I just know that keeping my fingers crossed and holding my mouth right will help get it released so that I don't have to take it apart. Right?

Thanks
Pete[/quote]

You just never know with these old Cats Pete, you might be lucky and have it come good as it might just be frozen linkages, check the easy things first.
Regards
Mike