CAT 22 engine rebuild

I'd check the clearances.....end plate to gears, gap between gear teeth and housing.....then you know where you are at.

I see you are reusing the pistons, were the ring lands checked for proper clearance (mainly compression)?

By all means yes, take it apart! It will very likely need to have the gears and end plate(s) resurfaced. I sallowed for 0.002" clearance between gear length. I have done two of these and both needed refreshing. Also replace the spring for the pressure relief. After rebuilding, set it up for a pressure test for a final adjustmnt before installing. I set mine at 35psi cold.

Dan

[quote="Dan Pratt"]By all means yes, take it apart! It will very likely need to have the gears and end plate(s) resurfaced. I sallowed for 0.002" clearance between gear length. I have done two of these and both needed refreshing. Also replace the spring for the pressure relief. After rebuilding, set it up for a pressure test for a final adjustmnt before installing. I set mine at 35psi cold.

Dan[/quote]

Dan,
have not done a pump before. Do you have any reference or guidance on how all this is done? P/N and source for spring? Ray

[quote="[email protected]"]Dan,
have not done a pump before. Do you have any reference or guidance on how all this is done? P/N and source for spring? Ray[/quote]

Nice work on your motor Ray, how much do the new babbitt bearings cost in the USA to pour and machine? My 22 parts book says that oil pump spring is P/N OL1142, and I'd suggest you contact your Cat. Dealer first because it is weird what parts they sometimes have for the old girls.
regards
Mike

[quote="Mike Meyer"]Nice work on your motor Ray, how much do the new babbitt bearings cost in the USA to pour and machine? My 22 parts book says that oil pump spring is P/N OL1142, and I'd suggest you contact your Cat. Dealer first because it is weird what parts they sometimes have for the old girls.
regards
Mike[/quote]

Mike,
I looked around at a couple options for doing the re-babbitting. One company in Syracuse, NY said I should only give them my bearing shells and drawings of what I wanted them to do and they would make the bearings to my drawings. If they didn't work it would be my problem since they built to my drawings. No way I would work with them. Then I called Ziggy at Babbitt Pot in Ft. Edward, NY. He said to bring him the block, rods, and shells. He would line bore the block, grind the crank, pour the babbitts for the mains and rod bearings, then assemble the crank into the block. Total cost was $1,700. I may have been able to find a lower cost shop, but I felt very comfortable with Ziggy. He came well recommended by other club members. Ray

It's the ring to groove side clearance that I was mostly referring to, seems this is often overlooked.

[quote="Mike Meyer"]Nice work on your motor Ray, how much do the new babbitt bearings cost in the USA to pour and machine? My 22 parts book says that oil pump spring is P/N OL1142, and I'd suggest you contact your Cat. Dealer first because it is weird what parts they sometimes have for the old girls.
regards
Mike[/quote]

Mike,
I looked around at a couple options for doing the re-babbitting. One company in Syracuse, NY said I should only give them my bearing shells and drawings of what I wanted them to do and they would make the bearings to my drawings. If they didn't work it would be my problem since they built to my drawings. No way I would work with them. Then I called Ziggy at Babbitt Pot in Ft. Edward, NY. He said to bring him the block, rods, and shells. He would line bore the block, grind the crank, pour the babbitts for the mains and rod bearings, then assemble the crank into the block. Total cost was $1,700. I may have been able to find a lower cost shop, but I felt very comfortable with Ziggy. He came well recommended by other club members. Ray