Babbit bearings are different than modern bearing shells. Babbitt is typically softer and likes a larger oil clearance so that the oil acts as a cushion and the babbitt absorbs any foriegn materials. I would try to get your bearing clearances somewhere between .003" and.006", but closer to .003 You will be fine if you get them within that range.
Thanks WyoCat, just have to find some plastiguage to cover that range of clearance. Would you happen to know what torque is required for the cap and main bolts?? Thanks again. Leon
When I torque these old main and rod caps I use a standard torque chart for size and thread pitch. As I torque them I watch to see how close the castle nut is to lining up with the hole in the stud. Instead of over tightening a nut to line it up its better to stop early. While "technically" the nut will be slightly undertorqued it will not back off due to the cotter pin holding it in place. I have even tried different nuts on different studs to get them to be as close to torque as possible with the slot lining up. Hope this helps.
Thanks again Wyocat, appreciate the advice. Leon
If you ever have trouble getting the cotter pins holes to line up and backing off is too loose, just go to the bench grinder and grind a little off the side that bears against the cap. It will allow you to make it to the next hole.
John