Some times the shims can be pinched against the crank pin. I like to tighten the nuts down till they are snug, but not tight. Then tap the side of the rod gently into the crankpin both ways. The crank pin will push the shims back flush to the same level as the babbitt. If this does not do the trick, try to plastigage the entire length of the surface. If the crankpin has tapered wear you will need to open up the oil clearance a bit.
Leon; Greetings from rainy Kamloops. Just a thought, is it possible that the piston could have turned 180 degrees and your cap and conn.rods are lineing up on the wrong side of the engine. Kevin
Thanks again Wyocat. I gave that a try and even added another .002 shim to each side and it still binds. Have to get back at it later today and lay some plastigage in it at different locations to see where it is binding. Also will have to borrow a micrometer to check the crank. If I can get this one figured out I am not going to mess with the other three. I just wanted to check it out and get it running before I could make a decision on how far I wanted to go with restoring it.
Hi Kevin, no, I haven't rotated the piston, but thanks for the suggestion. Raining down here as well. If you ever make it this way, give me a call. Leon
You bet Leon I,ll be sure to give you a call. Have lots of parts sources and lots of repair and rebuild experiance on the old cats.