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Cat 12F grader info needed please

Cat 12F grader info needed please

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propatria
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Hi guys

I am from South Africa and own a Cat 12F Grader,

I have search all over but do not find any info in regards to this machine.

There are two numbers on the engine but no other serial number, the numbers are;
49V16606
6A784
It is fitted with an engine which i know as a 3606 (six silinder non turbo)

I have trouble with a slipping clutch, and would like some assistance from someone that know these machines.

What oil to be used in the tandems?

Where do i fill the gearbox oil?

Thanks
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Sat, Feb 5, 2011 5:24 AM
Old Magnet
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I show a couple (SAF) South Africa machine models:
A 34K from 1968 - 1974
A 73H from 1970 - 1971

49V16606 is the engine serial number for a 3306
6A784 would be the engine arrangement number.

There should be a grader model/serial number on the grader frame....doesn't say where, looks like LH side.

These machines would be very similar to the US 13K model from 1967 to 1973.

The tandem drives use SAE 90 oil (32 deg. F and above) (6 gallons ea.)

The transmission and rear axle housing have the drain and filler on the square cover of the rear axle housing. Fill to top of filler neck.

Have you tried adjusting the main clutch?
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Sat, Feb 5, 2011 10:35 AM
propatria
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I show a couple (SAF) South Africa machine models:
A 34K from 1968 - 1974
A 73H from 1970 - 1971

49V16606 is the engine serial number for a 3306
6A784 would be the engine arrangement number.

There should be a grader model/serial number on the grader frame....doesn't say where, looks like LH side.

These machines would be very similar to the US 13K model from 1967 to 1973.

The tandem drives use SAE 90 oil (32 deg. F and above) (6 gallons ea.)

The transmission and rear axle housing have the drain and filler on the square cover of the rear axle housing. Fill to top of filler neck.

Have you tried adjusting the main clutch?
[quote="Old Magnet"]I show a couple (SAF) South Africa machine models:
A 34K from 1968 - 1974
A 73H from 1970 - 1971

49V16606 is the engine serial number for a 3306
6A784 would be the engine arrangement number.

There should be a grader model/serial number on the grader frame....doesn't say where, looks like LH side.

These machines would be very similar to the US 13K model from 1967 to 1973.

The tandem drives use SAE 90 oil (32 deg. F and above) (6 gallons ea.)

The transmission and rear axle housing have the drain and filler on the square cover of the rear axle housing. Fill to top of filler neck.

Have you tried adjusting the main clutch?[/quote]

Thank you Old Magnet.

I have searched for the serial number all over, i surpose that the previous owner removed the makers plate.

The filler plug which you refer to i did remove and it were full, but it seemded very thin, i did not drain it yet, should i fill it with 20w50 Agri multigrade? (which we use here in tractor gearboxes, engines etc)

In regards to the clutch;
I have adujsted the rod from the peddle to make sure it have free play. i dont find any other adjustment, however on the left hand side is an inspection cover on the bell housing. I can see inside but do not want to fidle with it unless i know what to do.

I really appresiate your help, if ever you come to South Africa, you are most welcome to come and spend time on the farm in the waterberg.

We have a big problem in South Africa in regards to capable mechanics, due to the political problems most of our fellow Boers who knew these machines have moved away to other countries.

Boere Groete
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Sat, Feb 5, 2011 5:26 PM
ol Grump
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Reply to propatria:
[quote="Old Magnet"]I show a couple (SAF) South Africa machine models:
A 34K from 1968 - 1974
A 73H from 1970 - 1971

49V16606 is the engine serial number for a 3306
6A784 would be the engine arrangement number.

There should be a grader model/serial number on the grader frame....doesn't say where, looks like LH side.

These machines would be very similar to the US 13K model from 1967 to 1973.

The tandem drives use SAE 90 oil (32 deg. F and above) (6 gallons ea.)

The transmission and rear axle housing have the drain and filler on the square cover of the rear axle housing. Fill to top of filler neck.

Have you tried adjusting the main clutch?[/quote]

Thank you Old Magnet.

I have searched for the serial number all over, i surpose that the previous owner removed the makers plate.

The filler plug which you refer to i did remove and it were full, but it seemded very thin, i did not drain it yet, should i fill it with 20w50 Agri multigrade? (which we use here in tractor gearboxes, engines etc)

In regards to the clutch;
I have adujsted the rod from the peddle to make sure it have free play. i dont find any other adjustment, however on the left hand side is an inspection cover on the bell housing. I can see inside but do not want to fidle with it unless i know what to do.

I really appresiate your help, if ever you come to South Africa, you are most welcome to come and spend time on the farm in the waterberg.

We have a big problem in South Africa in regards to capable mechanics, due to the political problems most of our fellow Boers who knew these machines have moved away to other countries.

Boere Groete
The ID plate should be on the right hand side of the frame inboard of the front wheels. .if it's gone, look for small holes or broken off rivets. Usually the S/N was stamped there under the plate.
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Sat, Feb 5, 2011 10:08 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ol Grump:
The ID plate should be on the right hand side of the frame inboard of the front wheels. .if it's gone, look for small holes or broken off rivets. Usually the S/N was stamped there under the plate.
Well, not likely I'll be traveling your way anytime soon...

Viscosity wise you have the option of the SAE 90, ISO 220, AGMA 5. The 20w50 makes viscosity but is normally considered an engine oil.....different than a gear oil.

There's a little more to adjusting the clutch, instructions attached.

If it still slips after adjustment it would be due to worn parts, levers, springs, discs, etc. and require overhaul. Those oil clutches last a long time but there are limits.
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Sat, Feb 5, 2011 11:32 PM
propatria
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Well, not likely I'll be traveling your way anytime soon...

Viscosity wise you have the option of the SAE 90, ISO 220, AGMA 5. The 20w50 makes viscosity but is normally considered an engine oil.....different than a gear oil.

There's a little more to adjusting the clutch, instructions attached.

If it still slips after adjustment it would be due to worn parts, levers, springs, discs, etc. and require overhaul. Those oil clutches last a long time but there are limits.
Thanks guys

I went out and have a look at the makers plate posistion and did not find even an indication of rivit holes. I would look again tomorow in the day.

Thanks for the manual page, i will do the adjustments and see what happen.

Is there any other machines which use the same clutch, i am ot sure i will be able to get the spares locally.

Boeregroete
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Sun, Feb 6, 2011 2:48 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to propatria:
Thanks guys

I went out and have a look at the makers plate posistion and did not find even an indication of rivit holes. I would look again tomorow in the day.

Thanks for the manual page, i will do the adjustments and see what happen.

Is there any other machines which use the same clutch, i am ot sure i will be able to get the spares locally.

Boeregroete
I don't have the individual parts manuals to check but the Service Manual covers the 12F and 14E models as the same.
I would tend to think at least some of the individual pieces would interchange with other grader models, possibly all the way back to the 8T models.
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Sun, Feb 6, 2011 3:30 AM
propatria
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I don't have the individual parts manuals to check but the Service Manual covers the 12F and 14E models as the same.
I would tend to think at least some of the individual pieces would interchange with other grader models, possibly all the way back to the 8T models.
Thanks guys, especially you old Magnet

Clutch addjustment went 100% and the machine is working well.

The circle drive does not work well and i suspect that i need to replace the cluches inside the control box, any advice?

Boere Groete
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Mon, Feb 7, 2011 11:46 PM
ccjersey
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Make sure all the shims etc on the circle are adjusted to take out the slack without causing the circle to bind.

Then lubricate it well

Then put the end of the moldboard down on the ground and drive forward or backward to help it around😆

We have a 12E with the same problem. I thought it was about the last model with the gear drive controls, but I guess not.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Feb 8, 2011 3:44 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ccjersey:
Make sure all the shims etc on the circle are adjusted to take out the slack without causing the circle to bind.

Then lubricate it well

Then put the end of the moldboard down on the ground and drive forward or backward to help it around😆

We have a 12E with the same problem. I thought it was about the last model with the gear drive controls, but I guess not.
Here is a picture of where the serial number ought to be.

Agreed, more likely the ring is binding than problem with clutches.
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Tue, Feb 8, 2011 10:35 AM
propatria
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Reply to ccjersey:
Make sure all the shims etc on the circle are adjusted to take out the slack without causing the circle to bind.

Then lubricate it well

Then put the end of the moldboard down on the ground and drive forward or backward to help it around😆

We have a 12E with the same problem. I thought it was about the last model with the gear drive controls, but I guess not.
[quote="ccjersey"]Make sure all the shims etc on the circle are adjusted to take out the slack without causing the circle to bind.

Then lubricate it well

Then put the end of the moldboard down on the ground and drive forward or backward to help it around😆

We have a 12E with the same problem. I thought it was about the last model with the gear drive controls, but I guess not.[/quote]

Thanks guys

Is there any diagram or more detail on the simming of the clutch sistem? When the mashine have worked for an hour or two the problem increase (hope this help to identify the problem)
I do not suspect that the ring is binding. when moving to the clockwise side it works easier that anti clockwise.

The centreshift have the same problem, it move very easy to one side, but very dificult to the other side, it does not bind anywhere which i can see.

Boeregroete
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Thu, Feb 17, 2011 7:25 PM
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