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Cat 12 Road Grader Clutch Adjustment

Cat 12 Road Grader Clutch Adjustment

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KansasD7
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The clutch on my Cat 12 (8T1340😎 grader has to be pushed all the way to the floor to keep the gears from raking when selecting a gear before taking off.

Perhaps this is normal and properly adjusted, but it would be nice if I didn't have to press it all the way down (which takes a large amount of force). For a 160 lb operator, it almost takes both feet!

The clutch engages at probably the mid-way point on the way up.

I haven't had any luck searching the forum for guidance on adjusting the clutch. Any help much appreciated.

Also, does anyone know the year this 8T13408 was built? The same serial number is on both the motor and the frame.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ebr73pGTBIkhDT9_rEo54sa89i0fgWac39JSYkMNCcL_kU1SwrqR7tK0mfJ1KaFkRLhSZXXnJezfjg=w489-h275-rw[/img]

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aVetuo_QTxqiiPj-mq-pXzfzu5N91amiiC_T-CD5xXPLrsalS4SwrwjcG5w8cQ8NYimg-kE2ESLgAA=w489-h275-rw[/img]

Thanks,
Steve
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Sun, Dec 4, 2016 10:12 PM
Old Magnet
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Build year is 1954
Clutch adjustment instructions.....
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Mon, Dec 5, 2016 12:30 AM
KansasD7
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Build year is 1954
Clutch adjustment instructions.....
[quote="Old Magnet"]Build year is 1954
Clutch adjustment instructions.....[/quote]

Hello Old Magnet,

Thank you for your help, but these instructions seem to only reference serial numbers newer than 8T13408.

I took the cover off the left side of the bell housing, and the clutch on this unit doesn't seem to look anything like the one in this image.

Thanks,
Steve
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Mon, Dec 5, 2016 4:35 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to KansasD7:
[quote="Old Magnet"]Build year is 1954
Clutch adjustment instructions.....[/quote]

Hello Old Magnet,

Thank you for your help, but these instructions seem to only reference serial numbers newer than 8T13408.

I took the cover off the left side of the bell housing, and the clutch on this unit doesn't seem to look anything like the one in this image.

Thanks,
Steve
Same procedure on earlier clutches prior to 8T14782 but as stated hold the top of the pedal movement adjustment to 3". I believe that translates to about 3/16" clearance at the throw out bearing to fork clearance.
Instructions come from the O & M manual for 8T1-up and 80C1-up
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Mon, Dec 5, 2016 5:16 AM
KansasD7
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Same procedure on earlier clutches prior to 8T14782 but as stated hold the top of the pedal movement adjustment to 3". I believe that translates to about 3/16" clearance at the throw out bearing to fork clearance.
Instructions come from the O & M manual for 8T1-up and 80C1-up
[quote="Old Magnet"]Same procedure on earlier clutches prior to 8T14782 but as stated hold the top of the pedal movement adjustment to 3". I believe that translates to about 3/16" clearance at the throw out bearing to fork clearance.
Instructions come from the O & M manual for 8T1-up and 80C1-up[/quote]

Ok, thanks. I reduced the top of pedal movement to 3" by shortening the pedal-to-throwout arm linkage and lubricated the rusty clevis pins in the linkage while I was in there. I will give it a try the next time I have it running.

Thanks,
Steve
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Mon, Dec 5, 2016 6:02 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to KansasD7:
[quote="Old Magnet"]Same procedure on earlier clutches prior to 8T14782 but as stated hold the top of the pedal movement adjustment to 3". I believe that translates to about 3/16" clearance at the throw out bearing to fork clearance.
Instructions come from the O & M manual for 8T1-up and 80C1-up[/quote]

Ok, thanks. I reduced the top of pedal movement to 3" by shortening the pedal-to-throwout arm linkage and lubricated the rusty clevis pins in the linkage while I was in there. I will give it a try the next time I have it running.

Thanks,
Steve
Adjustment needs to be made at the release fingers, not in the linkage.
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Mon, Dec 5, 2016 7:31 AM
oldbeek
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Adjustment needs to be made at the release fingers, not in the linkage.
adjust each finger one at a time by removing cotter pin from castle nut. The main thing is to always have clearance. The spec is 3/16 , but if you want a higher pedal adjust each finger to 1/8 inch clearance. A piece of weld rod works good for a gauge.
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Mon, Dec 5, 2016 8:30 AM
7upuller
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Reply to oldbeek:
adjust each finger one at a time by removing cotter pin from castle nut. The main thing is to always have clearance. The spec is 3/16 , but if you want a higher pedal adjust each finger to 1/8 inch clearance. A piece of weld rod works good for a gauge.
Hey Team,

As OldBeek states, it's important to make sure all fingers are adjusted properly and evenly. My 12 had the clutch slip as only one finger was properly adjusted. I feared a clutch was needed, but after proper adjustment, it's all good.
Glen
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Mon, Dec 5, 2016 8:41 AM
edb
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Reply to 7upuller:
Hey Team,

As OldBeek states, it's important to make sure all fingers are adjusted properly and evenly. My 12 had the clutch slip as only one finger was properly adjusted. I feared a clutch was needed, but after proper adjustment, it's all good.
Glen
Hi Team,
it is also important to have 0.020 to 0.030" clearance between the throw out fork pads and the plugs in the throw out bearing cage/carrier.
This is achieved by adjusting the length of the rod (the one you adjusted) between the pedal and the throw out fork shaft external lever.

The standard machine tool kit should have an "S" shaped tool for adjusting the brakes--tapered end--and a flat end for the clutch adjustment gauge.
A hole is drilled into the gauge for a safety string to retrieve the tool should it be dropped into the clutch housing.

The scan below shows the 3/16" tooling. As OM said, and showed in his scan, the later units are 1/8" clearance.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Mon, Dec 5, 2016 12:35 PM
KansasD7
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
it is also important to have 0.020 to 0.030" clearance between the throw out fork pads and the plugs in the throw out bearing cage/carrier.
This is achieved by adjusting the length of the rod (the one you adjusted) between the pedal and the throw out fork shaft external lever.

The standard machine tool kit should have an "S" shaped tool for adjusting the brakes--tapered end--and a flat end for the clutch adjustment gauge.
A hole is drilled into the gauge for a safety string to retrieve the tool should it be dropped into the clutch housing.

The scan below shows the 3/16" tooling. As OM said, and showed in his scan, the later units are 1/8" clearance.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Thanks everyone for your help.

These additional images make it much clearer what needs to be adjusted.

Thanks,
Steve
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Mon, Dec 5, 2016 7:44 PM
kracked1
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Reply to KansasD7:
Thanks everyone for your help.

These additional images make it much clearer what needs to be adjusted.

Thanks,
Steve
As oldbeek said a piece of welding rod works good. I use a drill bit. Go around 2x when adjusting. I never get them all right only going around once since the tight ones hold the others. Also helps to have someone to turn the engine over with the fan. While you watch in the housing. It turns easy with compression released.
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Mon, Dec 5, 2016 9:24 PM
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