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cat 12 grader control problems

cat 12 grader control problems

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longshot
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I just bought an old cat 12 manual grader. I already own an old d6 dozer and have worked the devil our os it and it keeps on ticking. So I bought this grader and the controls all work smoothly except the left blade lift. It wack, wack, wacks all the way up and all the way down. It is very hard to keep the lever engaged, but it does work even with the wacka, wacka, wacka. I have switched the gears in the control box behind the steering wheel from left to right, no change. I have taken the down arm loose from the blade to move the gear to a different spot maybe. No change. By the way it wacked moving the arm up ever not connected to the blade. Anybody have any ideas???
Really would like any thoughts, Thanks
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Sun, Jun 30, 2013 8:14 PM
ccjersey
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Must be some serious wear on the dogs to jump out without the moldboard even connected up. Or is it possible there is a pinion binding in the gearbox in front of the cab?

pictures?

Thinking about what you describe...........The blade moves up and down if you hold the lever engaged, but it still clacks regularly as it moves up or down? Or just up?

Sounds like a bad tooth on a gear in front of the control box. There are 2 sets of bevel gears which could be the problem. Maybe a piece of tooth jammed in between two teeth.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Jun 30, 2013 8:56 PM
longshot
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Reply to ccjersey:
Must be some serious wear on the dogs to jump out without the moldboard even connected up. Or is it possible there is a pinion binding in the gearbox in front of the cab?

pictures?

Thinking about what you describe...........The blade moves up and down if you hold the lever engaged, but it still clacks regularly as it moves up or down? Or just up?

Sounds like a bad tooth on a gear in front of the control box. There are 2 sets of bevel gears which could be the problem. Maybe a piece of tooth jammed in between two teeth.
[quote="ccjersey"]Must be some serious wear on the dogs to jump out without the moldboard even connected up. Or is it possible there is a pinion binding in the gearbox in front of the cab?

pictures?

Thinking about what you describe...........The blade moves up and down if you hold the lever engaged, but it still clacks regularly as it moves up or down? Or just up?

Sounds like a bad tooth on a gear in front of the control box. There are 2 sets of bevel gears which could be the problem. Maybe a piece of tooth jammed in between two teeth.[/quote]

Yes it makes the noise up and down. I was thinking the same thing about a bad tooth on the gear. I did move the connecting arm up one adjustment hole to give me a new set of teeth on the gear. That didn't help. Is it a big deal to take that gear housing in front of the cab off to look at those gears? I think I am out of options except for that.
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Sun, Jun 30, 2013 11:52 PM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to longshot:
[quote="ccjersey"]Must be some serious wear on the dogs to jump out without the moldboard even connected up. Or is it possible there is a pinion binding in the gearbox in front of the cab?

pictures?

Thinking about what you describe...........The blade moves up and down if you hold the lever engaged, but it still clacks regularly as it moves up or down? Or just up?

Sounds like a bad tooth on a gear in front of the control box. There are 2 sets of bevel gears which could be the problem. Maybe a piece of tooth jammed in between two teeth.[/quote]

Yes it makes the noise up and down. I was thinking the same thing about a bad tooth on the gear. I did move the connecting arm up one adjustment hole to give me a new set of teeth on the gear. That didn't help. Is it a big deal to take that gear housing in front of the cab off to look at those gears? I think I am out of options except for that.
Hi, Longshot.
Check to see if your machine has a screw adjustment on the worm drive pinion under the main blade lift gear on the front of the cab. If it does, put very light up pressure on the blade lift and adjust that set screw until it is just starting to come tight then do up the lock nut and try it. DO NOT try to tighten this adjustment up too tight as that will be just as bad as having it too loose.

If that doesn't cure your problem, you are most likely looking at a broken tooth somewhere in the smaller gears. If that is the case, I would drain all the oil from these cases and check the oil for any metal fragments. Then wash the cases out with diesel fuel. catch the washings and check them for same.

Hope this helps.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Mon, Jul 1, 2013 3:19 AM
edb
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Longshot.
Check to see if your machine has a screw adjustment on the worm drive pinion under the main blade lift gear on the front of the cab. If it does, put very light up pressure on the blade lift and adjust that set screw until it is just starting to come tight then do up the lock nut and try it. DO NOT try to tighten this adjustment up too tight as that will be just as bad as having it too loose.

If that doesn't cure your problem, you are most likely looking at a broken tooth somewhere in the smaller gears. If that is the case, I would drain all the oil from these cases and check the oil for any metal fragments. Then wash the cases out with diesel fuel. catch the washings and check them for same.

Hope this helps.
Hi longshot,
welcome to the BB,
Deas has given you the first thing I would check for the kicking problem in both directions of the blade lift control lever.
As you did not give a Serial # there are two types of adjustment for this worm.
The early one has no adjust screw and so is adjusted with shims under the end cover.
Set the lift arms at horizontal.
Drain the worm box of oil and remove the end cover. Take out any shims under the cover. Refit the cover without the shims and gently seat the cover with the 4 bolts tightened lightly and evenly.
Measure the gap and subtract 0.003" and fit shims of this dimension = 0.003" pre-load.
Replace drain plug and refill with oil. Retry and adjust to suit.
If this adjustment is on the loose side the blade will drift during operation on a long grading run.
Hope this helps.
I have scanned from a 212 grader grey Operation and Maintenance Instructions the two proceedures.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
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Mon, Jul 1, 2013 7:52 AM
longshot
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Reply to edb:
Hi longshot,
welcome to the BB,
Deas has given you the first thing I would check for the kicking problem in both directions of the blade lift control lever.
As you did not give a Serial # there are two types of adjustment for this worm.
The early one has no adjust screw and so is adjusted with shims under the end cover.
Set the lift arms at horizontal.
Drain the worm box of oil and remove the end cover. Take out any shims under the cover. Refit the cover without the shims and gently seat the cover with the 4 bolts tightened lightly and evenly.
Measure the gap and subtract 0.003" and fit shims of this dimension = 0.003" pre-load.
Replace drain plug and refill with oil. Retry and adjust to suit.
If this adjustment is on the loose side the blade will drift during operation on a long grading run.
Hope this helps.
I have scanned from a 212 grader grey Operation and Maintenance Instructions the two proceedures.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
Thank you all so much. Mine does have an adjustment on the worm gear. I will try adjusting that and see what happens. I really appreciate yall's help. I will let you know what happens.
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Wed, Jul 3, 2013 7:33 AM
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