Cat 12 D318 Won't Start

Will it run with the air pressure applied to the fuel tank?

Any chance the tank valve is nearly closed or plugged? Seems like if your transfer pump was worn out, the air pressure would force fuel through in short order.

Are you sure you didn't drop the spring or poppet in the bypass valve when reassembling?

Will it run with the air pressure applied to the fuel tank?

Any chance the tank valve is nearly closed or plugged? Seems like if your transfer pump was worn out, the air pressure would force fuel through in short order.

Are you sure you didn't drop the spring or poppet in the bypass valve when reassembling?

I haven't tried to start it with air pressure applied to the tank, but good idea. I can easily try that.

[quote]Are you sure you didn't drop the spring or poppet in the bypass valve when reassembling?[/quote]

Yes, very sure. I have had this apart twice, and when I pulled it back apart when changing the filters the spring/poppet were properly installed.

[quote]Any chance the tank valve is nearly closed or plugged? Seems like if your transfer pump was worn out, the air pressure would force fuel through in short order. [/quote]

When I had the fuel line from the tank to the transfer pump removed I had a chance to make sure that I could identify the fully open/closed position of the valve and I didn't see any signs of valve blockage. As you know, with each 90 degs of stem rotation, the valve either opens or closes.

Thanks for the ideas,
Steve

Understood that the gauge works but you don't mention what pressure you have when cranking or running. Fuel pressure needs to be verified. Also would be a good idea to bleed air at the injectors as well as the pump bleed screws and it may take more than one cycle of bleeding to get all the air out.

Understood that the gauge works but you don't mention what pressure you have when cranking or running. Fuel pressure needs to be verified. Also would be a good idea to bleed air at the injectors as well as the pump bleed screws and it may take more than one cycle of bleeding to get all the air out.

X 2 on cracking injector lines at the injectors. What fuel pressure did it have just before it quite and you were warming it up. To get the regulator and spring out of the picture, recently i made a heavy gasket that covered that hole and just took the regulator and spring out . It did give me a few extra PSI. Put it back together correctly after i got it running.

when i bled the injection pump on my d318, i started at the front pump closest to the water pump and worked my way to the back to make sure that no air happened to get back in to the pump i just bled.

Om is right what is fuel pressure when cranking? you can crank it with the engine throttle wide open, have you checked the rack to make sure it didn't get bound in the closed position?

[quote="rmyram"]when i bled the injection pump on my d318, i started at the front pump closest to the water pump and worked my way to the back to make sure that no air happened to get back in to the pump i just bled.

Om is right what is fuel pressure when cranking? you can crank it with the engine throttle wide open, have you checked the rack to make sure it didn't get bound in the closed position?[/quote]

Hello,

No or slight fuel pressure when cranking.

I don't know how to check that the rack did not get bound in the closed position, but will try to investigate.

This is an interesting theory since I was moving the throttle up and down (and smiling like a Cat owner) just before the engine stopped responding to throttle movement.

Thanks,
Steve