can RD6 brake band be removed without taking off big cover?

Hi scooter3, yes you can do the brakes without removing the top cover, hopefully you have the "later" 3 piece brake bands (the early RD6 had a 2 piece brake band) as that makes the job a bit easier because you will be able to see the 4 nuts holding each section together that you need to remove, first the brake adjuster rod under the seat get's removed and there is a pin securing the lower band section you need to get out (use lots of loose juice first) and you then "simply" unbolt the band sections and slide them out the 2 square inspection holes in the rear of the tranny case.

I found a lot of old dirt and crud sitting under my bands in the bottom of the clutch housing that made sliding the new sections through difficult till I got it cleaned out with a flexible steel scraper a bit like a steel rule and lots of water to flush the crud out the 2 large drain holes under the tranny case that drain the clutch compartments, though that tractor had no dirt covers over the brake adjuster rods when I dragged her home and still doesn't as I haven't found any for her yet but I'm looking.
Good luck
Mike

Good morning Mike,
Thank you for the reply. It may be a couple of months before I do this because I started to work on the cylinder seals on the LaPlant Choate dozer blade.
I will let everyone know how it goes.
Thanks,
Scooter

Good evening,
I switched projects since I have stalled out on my cylinder seal. I am glad I asked about the brake bands, it was easier than realized. I have one band out and it was the two piece. I had to pull the lower section out the top, it was hanging up on something I could not get it through.
Do you know what thickness of friction material to use? It looks like it should be 3/16" or 1/4" thick.
Thank you for your help.
Scooter

Well done scooter3, sorry but I can't remember the new thickness, I had my brakes relined by a regular Brake and Clutch Shop and they used a part of the lining at the top of the band that was hardly worn as a guide to the thickness though on the Parts Search website I see Florin Tractor Parts are listing a lining for your top brake band, part number is 2B0937, if you buy that and take it to a Brake Shop they will be able to match the thickness and material when they make the lower band lining though I'll give you a tip, be very careful with the lining used because my RD6 squawks every time I use the right side brakes with the modern lining, it is very loud and drives me nuts, the left side brake still had enough meat on the old linings not to need replacing and they are silent when used, both grip about the same but there is something special needed in those Cat turning brakes to make them bite without sqawking.
Regards
Mike

[quote="Mike Meyer"]Well done scooter3, sorry but I can't remember the new thickness, I had my brakes relined by a regular Brake and Clutch Shop and they used a part of the lining at the top of the band that was hardly worn as a guide to the thickness though on the Parts Search website I see Florin Tractor Parts are listing a lining for your top brake band, part number is 2B0937, if you buy that and take it to a Brake Shop they will be able to match the thickness and material when they make the lower band lining though I'll give you a tip, be very careful with the lining used because my RD6 squawks every time I use the right side brakes with the modern lining, it is very loud and drives me nuts, the left side brake still had enough meat on the old linings not to need replacing and they are silent when used, both grip about the same but there is something special needed in those Cat turning brakes to make them bite without sqawking.
Regards
Mike[/quote]

Mike, it's asbestos!

Aaaaaah, the good stuff Stephen, we can't say that word in public anymore sadly, but there must be some new replacement material being used now that doesn't squeak. Interesting side note about asbestos, when I lived in King City in California for 6 years the towns water all came from wells and each year the water company would send us an analysis of the drinking water and guess what, it always shows asbestos in it and the water company would always have a little note at the bottom of the page saying "Don't be alarmed by the asbestos is your drinking water, it is a naturally occurring element that will do no harm to your health", or words to that effect.

We had an old asbestos mine and processing factory not far from town that closed down while I was living there called KCAC and a couple of good friends worked there in the management team, one who now spends his whole life going to court cases as a Expert Witness testifying about the non lethality of their long fiber asbestos compared to the short fiber "Blue" asbestos we have in Australia that has and will kill you.
Mike

Speaking of noises, I learned a few moons ago that some brake pad manufacturers put a thread of something in the pad when it's approaching wear limits to make it squeak and alert the driver and/or mechanic that the pads need replacing

Good evening,
I worked on this some more and realized when I pulled the lower section out of the first side I worked on I changed the radius of the band pulling it out with the brake actuator still in place. I want to remove the actuator pins out of each side of the frame that can be seen looking under the track, but they will not budge. They have a 3/8NC hole and I have used a fairly big slide hammer, but they will not move.
I was thinking of using a torch to heat the boss on the inside of the frame, but that sure looks like a lot of iron to heat up and I am sure all the grease will catch fire inside. I cleaned it the best I can.

I think the actuator has to come out to remove/install the lower section without bending it.

I took the upper section out of the other side and it looks like it has friction webbing that has little wear. It is 1/4" thick. The rivets are 7-5 brake rivets.
Has anyone tried to pull the actuator pins when stuck?
Thanks,
Scooter

Dynamite. Well you might try a high grade threaded rod in the hole with a bushing / pipe spacer and a heavy washer & nut with anti-sieze. First tap the hole, then thread the stud all the way in. Use the pipe & washer, nut to apply force. You could tap or heat on parts while the tension is applied. Use a hollow ram cylinder if you have one.