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Building a rose bush eating machine, D4D with tow behind rotary mower

Building a rose bush eating machine, D4D with tow behind rotary mower

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jstandle
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Hello,

The rose bushes are really getting carried away in some of our fields and many are too steep for our wheeled tractors to traverse safely. The big stuff is being removed with our D6C and the plan for the smaller stuff is to hit it with a rotary mower then come back and spray with chemical.

I've done some searching on here and on the web and although the information about doing this behind crawlers is few and far between in modern times, it sounds like this setup "should" work just fine behind a small Caterpillar.

One of our recent purchases was a D4D ag spec that has a PTO unit on the rear. It didn't have any controls though so I've since built that so we can run it from the cab.

We also found an older pull behind type mower that we purchased separately. We decided to use a 2 5/16" ball type hitch / coupler instead of the typical pin style to hopefully allow a little more articulation.

This is currently our test setup and if it works out we'll fix up the mower some more (or buy newer/better), maybe install some good cylinders to raise/lower the deck, rebuild the tongue, and I'm thinking of going to a new style slip clutch driveshaft with-out the carrier bearing (not sure on that yet).

We're setting the mower up pretty high off the ground, the blades are 10"+ as we're not worried about mowing grass, just the bushes and that should keep us out of the rocks.

The plan will be to disengage the mower for turning as it doesn't look like the driveshaft is going to handle much of a turning radius and pull back on the steer sticks if slowing is required to chop down the bushes.

We did install an over-run clutch and the driveshaft has a type of slip clutch. I'd like to incorporate a shear pin but this drive shaft isn't setup for one that I can see. My hope is that the over-run clutch will break if things got real ugly.

Any thoughts on our setup?

[attachment=52524]D4D rotary 1.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=52525]D4D rotary 2.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=52526]D4D PTO 1.jpg[/attachment]

Thanks,
Jordan
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Thu, Jan 31, 2019 1:48 AM
Rome K/G
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I would have to say the short pto shaft has to go, too sharp of an angle, I would just have one sliding shaft from the gear box to the pto coupler. When that baby is under load on a turn she'll be a knockin and a bangin. If you can find a shaft that will fit the square stock and run to the pto coupling that should work fine.
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Thu, Jan 31, 2019 1:54 AM
jstandle
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Reply to Rome K/G:
I would have to say the short pto shaft has to go, too sharp of an angle, I would just have one sliding shaft from the gear box to the pto coupler. When that baby is under load on a turn she'll be a knockin and a bangin. If you can find a shaft that will fit the square stock and run to the pto coupling that should work fine.


Yup, that's my biggest fear. I hadn't thought of just lengthening the front part of that existing shaft, we will consider that.

Thanks,
Jordan
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Thu, Jan 31, 2019 2:00 AM
D2MOVA
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Reply to jstandle:


Yup, that's my biggest fear. I hadn't thought of just lengthening the front part of that existing shaft, we will consider that.

Thanks,
Jordan
Hi having used trailing pto gear for years (ac rollbalers and side rakes etc )the drawbar pinhole is 14 inches from the end of pto on the tractor and it wiil turn well then the 5u D2had an extension that came with the pto to make turning point right
Cheers
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Thu, Jan 31, 2019 2:48 AM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to D2MOVA:
Hi having used trailing pto gear for years (ac rollbalers and side rakes etc )the drawbar pinhole is 14 inches from the end of pto on the tractor and it wiil turn well then the 5u D2had an extension that came with the pto to make turning point right
Cheers
Hi, JStandle.
I think you will find that set-up will work just fine even when running during quite sharp turns if you extend your crawler drawbar and shorten the mower drawbar so that the ball hitch pivot point is exactly 1/2-way between those first 2 universal joints. I did 5 years working on broad acre wheat farms in my miss-spent youth, harvesting with drawn, PTO-powered harvesters and we always set them up so the hitch pin was exactly mid-way between those first 2 universal joints and the PTO shaft was as close to flat as possible.

We were harvesting at 6 MPH and you could turn so sharp that the far end of the harvester was 'ackshully' going backwards during the turn and never even a slight chatter out of the PTO shaft. It appears that the exact length of either the tractor drawbar or the trailed implement drawbar does not matter so long as the pivot point between the 2 is exactly 1/2-way between those first 2 universals.

Just my 0.02.
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Thu, Jan 31, 2019 3:23 AM
D2MOVA
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, JStandle.
I think you will find that set-up will work just fine even when running during quite sharp turns if you extend your crawler drawbar and shorten the mower drawbar so that the ball hitch pivot point is exactly 1/2-way between those first 2 universal joints. I did 5 years working on broad acre wheat farms in my miss-spent youth, harvesting with drawn, PTO-powered harvesters and we always set them up so the hitch pin was exactly mid-way between those first 2 universal joints and the PTO shaft was as close to flat as possible.

We were harvesting at 6 MPH and you could turn so sharp that the far end of the harvester was 'ackshully' going backwards during the turn and never even a slight chatter out of the PTO shaft. It appears that the exact length of either the tractor drawbar or the trailed implement drawbar does not matter so long as the pivot point between the 2 is exactly 1/2-way between those first 2 universals.

Just my 0.02.
Hi that would be right Deas the machine that we used were never altered from brand new and as you said the hitch point is halfway between the universal
Cheers
Peter
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Thu, Jan 31, 2019 4:01 AM
Bruce P
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Reply to D2MOVA:
Hi that would be right Deas the machine that we used were never altered from brand new and as you said the hitch point is halfway between the universal
Cheers
Peter
The only thing I would add to the other comments would be the oil in the actual pto unit. If it shares oil with the bevel gear compartment then disregard my thought. The older D4 pto units had their own separate oil sump, so in a higher horsepower tractor the oil overheats and the box can fail catastrophically.

Just make sure the oil in the box is adequate and check the temperatures after you mow a bit.

Happy mowing

BP.
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Thu, Jan 31, 2019 4:09 AM
kal
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Reply to D2MOVA:
Hi that would be right Deas the machine that we used were never altered from brand new and as you said the hitch point is halfway between the universal
Cheers
Peter
How big are your rose bushes? I have a mower just like that and any clumps of brush with 1/2 to 3/4 stems is really hard for it to handle.The built in over running won't hold it and the blades bend easy.The IH mower I have has friction type slip clutch and a lot heavier blades and swing arm under it.It will put the hurts to large rose bushes and wild plums.
k
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Thu, Jan 31, 2019 4:15 AM
jstandle
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Reply to Bruce P:
The only thing I would add to the other comments would be the oil in the actual pto unit. If it shares oil with the bevel gear compartment then disregard my thought. The older D4 pto units had their own separate oil sump, so in a higher horsepower tractor the oil overheats and the box can fail catastrophically.

Just make sure the oil in the box is adequate and check the temperatures after you mow a bit.

Happy mowing

BP.
[quote="Deas Plant."]Hi, JStandle.
I think you will find that set-up will work just fine even when running during quite sharp turns if you extend your crawler drawbar and shorten the mower drawbar so that the ball hitch pivot point is exactly 1/2-way between those first 2 universal joints. I did 5 years working on broad acre wheat farms in my miss-spent youth, harvesting with drawn, PTO-powered harvesters and we always set them up so the hitch pin was exactly mid-way between those first 2 universal joints and the PTO shaft was as close to flat as possible.

We were harvesting at 6 MPH and you could turn so sharp that the far end of the harvester was 'ackshully' going backwards during the turn and never even a slight chatter out of the PTO shaft. It appears that the exact length of either the tractor drawbar or the trailed implement drawbar does not matter so long as the pivot point between the 2 is exactly 1/2-way between those first 2 universals.

Just my 0.02.[/quote]


Thanks for that info! Now knowing that I can see a mistake we have made, the picture below is how things looked before I lengthened the mower tongue to reach the drawbar. It WAS roughly half-way between those joints. Sounds like I need to bolt on an extension to the drawbar hitch instead and put the mower coupler back where it was.

[attachment=52529]D4D rotary 3.jpg[/attachment]



[quote="Bruce P"]The only thing I would add to the other comments would be the oil in the actual pto unit. If it shares oil with the bevel gear compartment then disregard my thought. The older D4 pto units had their own separate oil sump, so in a higher horsepower tractor the oil overheats and the box can fail catastrophically.

Just make sure the oil in the box is adequate and check the temperatures after you mow a bit.
[/quote]

This PTO unit has it's own reservoir so that is good to know. Would going to a full synthetic gear oil help in this case?

Thanks!
Jordan
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Thu, Jan 31, 2019 4:25 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to jstandle:
[quote="Deas Plant."]Hi, JStandle.
I think you will find that set-up will work just fine even when running during quite sharp turns if you extend your crawler drawbar and shorten the mower drawbar so that the ball hitch pivot point is exactly 1/2-way between those first 2 universal joints. I did 5 years working on broad acre wheat farms in my miss-spent youth, harvesting with drawn, PTO-powered harvesters and we always set them up so the hitch pin was exactly mid-way between those first 2 universal joints and the PTO shaft was as close to flat as possible.

We were harvesting at 6 MPH and you could turn so sharp that the far end of the harvester was 'ackshully' going backwards during the turn and never even a slight chatter out of the PTO shaft. It appears that the exact length of either the tractor drawbar or the trailed implement drawbar does not matter so long as the pivot point between the 2 is exactly 1/2-way between those first 2 universals.

Just my 0.02.[/quote]


Thanks for that info! Now knowing that I can see a mistake we have made, the picture below is how things looked before I lengthened the mower tongue to reach the drawbar. It WAS roughly half-way between those joints. Sounds like I need to bolt on an extension to the drawbar hitch instead and put the mower coupler back where it was.

[attachment=52529]D4D rotary 3.jpg[/attachment]



[quote="Bruce P"]The only thing I would add to the other comments would be the oil in the actual pto unit. If it shares oil with the bevel gear compartment then disregard my thought. The older D4 pto units had their own separate oil sump, so in a higher horsepower tractor the oil overheats and the box can fail catastrophically.

Just make sure the oil in the box is adequate and check the temperatures after you mow a bit.
[/quote]

This PTO unit has it's own reservoir so that is good to know. Would going to a full synthetic gear oil help in this case?

Thanks!
Jordan
Attachment
I have a 7' flail chopper i pull behind my 63hp D4 It will chop 1" brush pretty good.
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Thu, Jan 31, 2019 4:46 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to jstandle:
[quote="Deas Plant."]Hi, JStandle.
I think you will find that set-up will work just fine even when running during quite sharp turns if you extend your crawler drawbar and shorten the mower drawbar so that the ball hitch pivot point is exactly 1/2-way between those first 2 universal joints. I did 5 years working on broad acre wheat farms in my miss-spent youth, harvesting with drawn, PTO-powered harvesters and we always set them up so the hitch pin was exactly mid-way between those first 2 universal joints and the PTO shaft was as close to flat as possible.

We were harvesting at 6 MPH and you could turn so sharp that the far end of the harvester was 'ackshully' going backwards during the turn and never even a slight chatter out of the PTO shaft. It appears that the exact length of either the tractor drawbar or the trailed implement drawbar does not matter so long as the pivot point between the 2 is exactly 1/2-way between those first 2 universals.

Just my 0.02.[/quote]


Thanks for that info! Now knowing that I can see a mistake we have made, the picture below is how things looked before I lengthened the mower tongue to reach the drawbar. It WAS roughly half-way between those joints. Sounds like I need to bolt on an extension to the drawbar hitch instead and put the mower coupler back where it was.

[attachment=52529]D4D rotary 3.jpg[/attachment]



[quote="Bruce P"]The only thing I would add to the other comments would be the oil in the actual pto unit. If it shares oil with the bevel gear compartment then disregard my thought. The older D4 pto units had their own separate oil sump, so in a higher horsepower tractor the oil overheats and the box can fail catastrophically.

Just make sure the oil in the box is adequate and check the temperatures after you mow a bit.
[/quote]

This PTO unit has it's own reservoir so that is good to know. Would going to a full synthetic gear oil help in this case?

Thanks!
Jordan
Attachment
Here's the version I run....
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Thu, Jan 31, 2019 4:48 AM
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