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blade sucks down to deep when pushing what to do?

blade sucks down to deep when pushing what to do?

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wibbdog
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my d4 has all new hydraulics
what is happening is the blade will suck down to deep and not take an even cut. does it help to tilt it forwards? i have had it tilted back and it sucks down then i lift it up and i have created a bmx track. or is this just normal for this machine.
i have new cutting edges on the blade as well
its a tool bar setup.
thanks
D4 7U 36840
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Sat, May 14, 2016 5:31 AM
Deas Plant.
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Hi, Wibbdog.
First question - do you have the small diameter front idlers or the optional larger idlers intended for dozer work? If my understanding is correct, the smaller idlers were spoked and the larger were disc type - usually. This may be the answer to most of your problem.

Just my 0.02.
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Sat, May 14, 2016 5:42 AM
mrsmackpaul
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Wibbdog.
First question - do you have the small diameter front idlers or the optional larger idlers intended for dozer work? If my understanding is correct, the smaller idlers were spoked and the larger were disc type - usually. This may be the answer to most of your problem.

Just my 0.02.
my understanding is lay the blade back it will carry more and dig less lay the blade forward it wont carry as much but dig a lot harder

with out know how much experience you may or may not have but I always found lots of little corrections work better than big corrections and start only taking small cuts and go slow as you can until you get the hang of it

If room permits start tackling the BMX track from a angle as the machine wont be going up and down thru dips as much

Paul
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Sat, May 14, 2016 10:07 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to mrsmackpaul:
my understanding is lay the blade back it will carry more and dig less lay the blade forward it wont carry as much but dig a lot harder

with out know how much experience you may or may not have but I always found lots of little corrections work better than big corrections and start only taking small cuts and go slow as you can until you get the hang of it

If room permits start tackling the BMX track from a angle as the machine wont be going up and down thru dips as much

Paul
Tilt [pitch] it slightly forward. If digging in hard ground may need to tilt it more.
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Sat, May 14, 2016 10:38 AM
drujinin
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Reply to Rome K/G:
Tilt [pitch] it slightly forward. If digging in hard ground may need to tilt it more.
What hydraulic system is on this tractor but if it is the "Old Slow Low Pressure" systems typical of older CATS, then you need to sort of follow MackPauls advice of shallow cuts. When you start out with a shallow cut, look 10 feet or so ahead to see where you want the blade to be when you get there. I usually only watch the right hand corner of my blade as the rest will follow it. Set the blade down then lift up a little to take the slop out of the linkages, I usually don't and just use the slop as my intended cutting depth. Before I tightened up my linkages, mine would go down an additional inch&half. As you track along the blade will cut shallow, then deeper as it takes that hump out, then again shallow as it goes through a low spot. If you need to raise do so ever so slowly thinking of where you want to be depth wise when you get to the spot usually 10 feet or so from where you start adjusting. Biggest thing is to do this training in a big field of non-critical dirt moving as you won't learn it in an hour! If you are landscaping in your lawn, then you have all day and the next day to practice! Also I usually run half throttle to keep track speed down to allow me to adjust where I want the blade to be.
Many modern equipment operators will not run old machines as they are used to modern machines and high speed/pressure hydraulics. I have a hard time running a modern machine when I first get on one as I am under/over compensating for where/what I am trying to accomplish! Same goes for getting on an old machine!
As far as Idlers, there are large diameter spoke ones as well as large diameter solid ones. They do make a difference in reducing the washboard as the reduce the forward down tipping of the weight of the blade. Are they necessary? In my opinion, No as there are many D2's/D4's are there that were bought by Farmers with Blades added on at the Dealerships. Does counter balancing with a Winch help? Yes, but again it isn't a requirement, only an option!
Best thing is to PRACTICE!
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Sat, May 14, 2016 6:55 PM
8C 361
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Reply to drujinin:
What hydraulic system is on this tractor but if it is the "Old Slow Low Pressure" systems typical of older CATS, then you need to sort of follow MackPauls advice of shallow cuts. When you start out with a shallow cut, look 10 feet or so ahead to see where you want the blade to be when you get there. I usually only watch the right hand corner of my blade as the rest will follow it. Set the blade down then lift up a little to take the slop out of the linkages, I usually don't and just use the slop as my intended cutting depth. Before I tightened up my linkages, mine would go down an additional inch&half. As you track along the blade will cut shallow, then deeper as it takes that hump out, then again shallow as it goes through a low spot. If you need to raise do so ever so slowly thinking of where you want to be depth wise when you get to the spot usually 10 feet or so from where you start adjusting. Biggest thing is to do this training in a big field of non-critical dirt moving as you won't learn it in an hour! If you are landscaping in your lawn, then you have all day and the next day to practice! Also I usually run half throttle to keep track speed down to allow me to adjust where I want the blade to be.
Many modern equipment operators will not run old machines as they are used to modern machines and high speed/pressure hydraulics. I have a hard time running a modern machine when I first get on one as I am under/over compensating for where/what I am trying to accomplish! Same goes for getting on an old machine!
As far as Idlers, there are large diameter spoke ones as well as large diameter solid ones. They do make a difference in reducing the washboard as the reduce the forward down tipping of the weight of the blade. Are they necessary? In my opinion, No as there are many D2's/D4's are there that were bought by Farmers with Blades added on at the Dealerships. Does counter balancing with a Winch help? Yes, but again it isn't a requirement, only an option!
Best thing is to PRACTICE!
Originally tool bar blades came with adjustable skids behind the cutting edge to control penetration. Usually these have been taken off and lost. I think they would be fairly easy to make. Maybe someone has a picture of them from a parts book.
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Sat, May 14, 2016 7:40 PM
mrsmackpaul
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Reply to 8C 361:
Originally tool bar blades came with adjustable skids behind the cutting edge to control penetration. Usually these have been taken off and lost. I think they would be fairly easy to make. Maybe someone has a picture of them from a parts book.


Someone on here in the last six months or so had purchased a D4 with a tool bar that only had one skid on it and there was some disscussion about the one skid It had some pictures of it of I remember correctly does anybody remember that thread ????

Paul
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Sun, May 15, 2016 3:37 AM
wibbdog
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Reply to mrsmackpaul:


Someone on here in the last six months or so had purchased a D4 with a tool bar that only had one skid on it and there was some disscussion about the one skid It had some pictures of it of I remember correctly does anybody remember that thread ????

Paul
did not know that's what they were for. I have one the other was missing. I thought they were for when the blade was detached
I am going to make one and try it.
thanks
went to an auction today with a d717a in pretty good shape other than slobering some oil out the exhaust, I don't know what it sold for but I left at 10500$ and climbing It was an early non turbo but hydraulic .
D4 7U 36840
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Sun, May 15, 2016 9:05 AM
Newbie
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Reply to wibbdog:
did not know that's what they were for. I have one the other was missing. I thought they were for when the blade was detached
I am going to make one and try it.
thanks
went to an auction today with a d717a in pretty good shape other than slobering some oil out the exhaust, I don't know what it sold for but I left at 10500$ and climbing It was an early non turbo but hydraulic .
Gents,

I have some on the back of my blade, which are bearly worn, which I can take some pic's of tomorrow if it will help.
I will even include a rule in the shots so you can see the size of things. 😊

But, something that can cause lots of problems, is if the cylinders and lines haven't been bled properly. Air pockets can cause all sorts of undesired movements.


Cheers,

Phill.
1937 RD4 - 4G7191
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Tue, May 17, 2016 10:18 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Wibbdog.
First question - do you have the small diameter front idlers or the optional larger idlers intended for dozer work? If my understanding is correct, the smaller idlers were spoked and the larger were disc type - usually. This may be the answer to most of your problem.

Just my 0.02.
[quote="Deas Plant."]Hi, Wibbdog.
First question - do you have the small diameter front idlers or the optional larger idlers intended for dozer work? If my understanding is correct, the smaller idlers were spoked and the larger were disc type - usually. This may be the answer to most of your problem.

Just my 0.02.[/quote]

I never know that D4's had smaller and larger idlers--thought that was only an option on D2's...any idea of the relative diameter sizes??
Thanks
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Tue, May 17, 2016 10:39 PM
Michael Crowe
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Reply to dpendzic:
[quote="Deas Plant."]Hi, Wibbdog.
First question - do you have the small diameter front idlers or the optional larger idlers intended for dozer work? If my understanding is correct, the smaller idlers were spoked and the larger were disc type - usually. This may be the answer to most of your problem.

Just my 0.02.[/quote]

I never know that D4's had smaller and larger idlers--thought that was only an option on D2's...any idea of the relative diameter sizes??
Thanks
I have a D4 with the no 4 toolbar blade; it had only 1 shoe and I had one made, I'll take a picture tomorrow. They are easy to make.
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Wed, May 18, 2016 10:55 AM
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