Blade Adjustment

On my D4D if you do not adjust one in and the other out, it puts a bind on the main center pivot pin. Mine is a 6 way though. On that blade, maybe no problem if the twist is the same axis as pins on the blade on the main and brace members.
Dan

By lengthening one brace and shortening the other the blade can be tilted up to 10 inches. Yes, by lengthening or shortening both braces you can change the blade angle to suit your needs.
At normal position the distance between the brace and the shoulder of the eye should be about 3/4 inches.
It is recommended that you do not run with threads exposed when making adjustments.

[quote="Old Magnet"]Yes, by lengthening or shortening both braces you can change the blade angle to suit your needs.
[/quote]

Is there a rule of thumb on what blade angle is best for what type situation? As in tipping it foward is generally used for_______ and all the way back for_____?

Don't know of any rule of thumb...but on occasion I have adjusted the blade to work a knoll or swale but most of the time I live with the normal setting. Some of our operator friends should have some advice😊

Andy, Hi. With later tractors tilt and angle are hydraulicly powered, but the variable pitch is manually adjusted. With the twin adjusters you have you have the ability to adjust the tilt manually the shorter the brace the more that side of the blade will dig in, Of course the opposite brace should be adjusted equally in the opposite direction, maybe just tweaking the one or other a little more in order to keep things tight. If you start off by keeping the back of the blade dead upright from the ground you then try adjusting the pitch by turning them both equally in or out. Having the blade fully backward will enable you to carry more but with less penitration and trimming accurasy where as tilting fully forward gives you more penatration and less carry. If there was a rule of thumb Andy, i'd say that keeping the back of the blade perpendicular to the ground would be it,,Midrange.
Regards Gordon.

Hi, Andy1845C.
You have been given pretty good information on those tilt braces so far. Tilt the blade forward to cut or back to carry by adjusting both braces equally. Tilt one way or the other by adjusting one brace in and the other out - screwing the brace out will raise that side. You can also use this take some slack out of the blade while in a side-tilted situation by adjusting one brace more than the other so that they tighten up on one another to some extent.

As Old Magnet said (A wise man, that one.), don't extend the braces beyond the point where threads start to show as this increases the risk of bending the threaded section.

As well as tilting the blade for cutting drains, road shoulders, etc., you can also drop one corner a bit to help get into harder ground. It's no ripper but it does give you a bit more of a chance at getting harder material out.

Hope this helps.

Thanks guys!! 😊

That does help quite a bit. Nice to know its not abusing it to tilt it so one corner digs more.

I will have to try leaning it forward a bit and see how much more aagressivly it digs. Since I have owned the dozer I have mostly just cleared trees and brush with it and have not done alot of digging, so I have never really had a good place to play with the braces to get a feel for them. I have a project coming up this fall. I will have to exparament a bit with them.

Andy remember this too, theres not so many about these days who want or have the ability and patience to drive a non hydraulic tilting blade. It'll be good practise for you, getting that tractor level in order to get the blade level. !!

the more you tilt it forward the less it digs in dirt,bring it all the way back for serious digging.hope this helps