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arm adjustment hand clutch

arm adjustment hand clutch

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Gil Favor
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I just had my ace mechanic install an electric start pony on my D2, 1956 vintage.

I noticed that my hand clutch does NOT disengage completely when the hand lever is pushed forward. The hole the arm going down to the clutch mechanism is egged out and I cannot disengage completely. Also, trying to shift initially after starting the machine can lead to lots of grinding.
I think I have to de-egg the shape of the hole the round rod going through the floor to the clutch mechanism. Has anybody done such an operation? It appears to be very straightforward, nothing exceedingly difficult.

Also, is it possible it's just a matter of adjusting the threaded rod that goes from the arm rod down to the round shaft that goes through the floor? I have not performed this operation.

Hoping somebody can confirm my estimates how to fix this situation. Thanks to all.
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Sun, Mar 5, 2017 2:05 AM
ccjersey
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It would help if we knew the serial number of your tractor and whether it has a dry clutch or oil clutch. Sounds like the clutch brake is not working.

Does the clutch snap in and out of engagement?

You say it grinds when you try to shift into gear. Can you get it in gear? If you get it in gear can you stop the tractor with the main clutch or do you have to hold the steering clutch levers back to stop it?
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Mar 5, 2017 2:16 AM
Gil Favor
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Reply to ccjersey:
It would help if we knew the serial number of your tractor and whether it has a dry clutch or oil clutch. Sounds like the clutch brake is not working.

Does the clutch snap in and out of engagement?

You say it grinds when you try to shift into gear. Can you get it in gear? If you get it in gear can you stop the tractor with the main clutch or do you have to hold the steering clutch levers back to stop it?
[quote="ccjersey"]It would help if we knew the serial number of your tractor and whether it has a dry clutch or oil clutch. Sounds like the clutch brake is not working.

Does the clutch snap in and out of engagement?

You say it grinds when you try to shift into gear. Can you get it in gear? If you get it in gear can you stop the tractor with the main clutch or do you have to hold the steering clutch levers back to stop it?[/quote]

The clutch snaps in when moved back, and it holds tight once in. Starting out, it is difficult to find a gear it will go into because the clutch plate is NOT disengaged. Instead of the rod rotating in place, the rod that is round and goes through the floor plate, what I have is the rod moving FORWARD, not rotating in a tight circle upon movement of the hand clutch arm. A new machine would have a round hole through the floor, this wear has created an egg shaped hole and the slop produced prevents the arm from rotating in place and disengaging the clutch, hence the difficulty of getting the clutch out of gear.
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Sun, Mar 5, 2017 2:27 AM
Gil Favor
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Reply to Gil Favor:
[quote="ccjersey"]It would help if we knew the serial number of your tractor and whether it has a dry clutch or oil clutch. Sounds like the clutch brake is not working.

Does the clutch snap in and out of engagement?

You say it grinds when you try to shift into gear. Can you get it in gear? If you get it in gear can you stop the tractor with the main clutch or do you have to hold the steering clutch levers back to stop it?[/quote]

The clutch snaps in when moved back, and it holds tight once in. Starting out, it is difficult to find a gear it will go into because the clutch plate is NOT disengaged. Instead of the rod rotating in place, the rod that is round and goes through the floor plate, what I have is the rod moving FORWARD, not rotating in a tight circle upon movement of the hand clutch arm. A new machine would have a round hole through the floor, this wear has created an egg shaped hole and the slop produced prevents the arm from rotating in place and disengaging the clutch, hence the difficulty of getting the clutch out of gear.


My machine is a D2, 1956, serial approximately 18800.
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Sun, Mar 5, 2017 2:28 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to Gil Favor:
[quote="ccjersey"]It would help if we knew the serial number of your tractor and whether it has a dry clutch or oil clutch. Sounds like the clutch brake is not working.

Does the clutch snap in and out of engagement?

You say it grinds when you try to shift into gear. Can you get it in gear? If you get it in gear can you stop the tractor with the main clutch or do you have to hold the steering clutch levers back to stop it?[/quote]

The clutch snaps in when moved back, and it holds tight once in. Starting out, it is difficult to find a gear it will go into because the clutch plate is NOT disengaged. Instead of the rod rotating in place, the rod that is round and goes through the floor plate, what I have is the rod moving FORWARD, not rotating in a tight circle upon movement of the hand clutch arm. A new machine would have a round hole through the floor, this wear has created an egg shaped hole and the slop produced prevents the arm from rotating in place and disengaging the clutch, hence the difficulty of getting the clutch out of gear.
I had that problem on my 4U---I found a piece of copper pipe that was close to the correct od and id---slid it over the rod and tapped it down into the housing--i guess it pushed the old bushing down and out and took out the slop and works well
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Sun, Mar 5, 2017 2:31 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to dpendzic:
I had that problem on my 4U---I found a piece of copper pipe that was close to the correct od and id---slid it over the rod and tapped it down into the housing--i guess it pushed the old bushing down and out and took out the slop and works well
Gil, I guess you know that the clutch brake does not work automatically? You have to push the lever forward and hold it there as hard and as long as you need to to stop the clutch from turning. Even if your housing is worn oblong you should have enough lever travel to stop the clutch turning . Could be the brake part is gone & needs replacing.
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Sun, Mar 5, 2017 2:52 AM
Gil Favor
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Reply to STEPHEN:
Gil, I guess you know that the clutch brake does not work automatically? You have to push the lever forward and hold it there as hard and as long as you need to to stop the clutch from turning. Even if your housing is worn oblong you should have enough lever travel to stop the clutch turning . Could be the brake part is gone & needs replacing.


I fully realize how much travel is necessary to disengage the clutch. I'm also durn sure I am finding it hard to disengage 'cuz I flat jes' don't have enough room to disengage 'er. The down shaft, the one I mentioned, has to ROTATE, NOT slide laterally. And my shaft is NOT rotating, it is sliding forward due to the egging and it simply does not rotate and rotation is what is necessary to disengage. Not lateral movement. There MIGHT be a slight rotatory movement, but not enough to disengage the clutch plate.
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Sun, Mar 5, 2017 2:59 AM
dan83
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Reply to Gil Favor:


I fully realize how much travel is necessary to disengage the clutch. I'm also durn sure I am finding it hard to disengage 'cuz I flat jes' don't have enough room to disengage 'er. The down shaft, the one I mentioned, has to ROTATE, NOT slide laterally. And my shaft is NOT rotating, it is sliding forward due to the egging and it simply does not rotate and rotation is what is necessary to disengage. Not lateral movement. There MIGHT be a slight rotatory movement, but not enough to disengage the clutch plate.
You can get the proper sized bushing and bronze it in should work
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Sun, Mar 5, 2017 5:02 AM
neil
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Reply to dan83:
You can get the proper sized bushing and bronze it in should work
Gil, just buy the bushing from Cat - it's part # 6H3973 if you're between 16128 and 18440-up
I just replaced mine. I had my machine shop add a grease gallery to the shaft so that I can grease that bearing.
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Sun, Mar 5, 2017 7:53 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to neil:
Gil, just buy the bushing from Cat - it's part # 6H3973 if you're between 16128 and 18440-up
I just replaced mine. I had my machine shop add a grease gallery to the shaft so that I can grease that bearing.
Gil, if you can shift at all without the clutch disconnected then there is something wrong with the lockout mechanism if it still does that once your bushing problem is resolved. Definitely should not be able to shift without releasing the clutch first.
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Sun, Mar 5, 2017 8:13 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to STEPHEN:
Gil, if you can shift at all without the clutch disconnected then there is something wrong with the lockout mechanism if it still does that once your bushing problem is resolved. Definitely should not be able to shift without releasing the clutch first.
If there was a bushing on top then replace it and JB Weld any remaining oblong spaces.
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Sun, Mar 5, 2017 8:15 AM
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