Any tricks for adjusting D2 clutches?

I had to adjust the main clutch on the D2 that was purchased from a local auction. It slipped so bad, that I could not load it on my Fruehauf tiltbed trailer!

Does anyone have a special trick? Just curious.

I removed the hood on the orchard rig along with the aircleaner to give myself some extra room; from the looks of things, the previous person used a thin piece of string wrapped around the knob to pull it out, and likely tied it to something to keep the tension on it, so they could spin the adjustment. I also wonder if leftover string did not allow the knob to fully engage, and if it could have slipped out, allowing for the clutch to self adjust (now I think about which direction the engine turns over etc.)

I wrapped some thin wire with a pair of needle nose offset pliers and jury rigged it to keep tension on the knob; from there I used a bearing race punch and whacked it 3 hole positions to where the adjustment seemed good. 4 holes was way too much, if there was a spot between 3rd and 4th holes, it would have been nicer, but for now, the D2 has good adjustment.

I think I will make a tool for pulling the knob out for future D2 adjustments. A forked end to grip the knob and perhaps a small ratchet strap or handle of sorts to pull out with? It is a shame the access is so small. This was much easier than a D4 I had to do awhile back; that one needed persuassion with an air wrench and air chisel!

Share your secret method of adjusting please!

It may have some oil on the disc but a distinct snap over center on the clutch lever is all it should take.

On the oil clutch version I think the pull is ~35# pull on lever.

I was fooling around with my late 5U oil clutch a month ago trying to get the clutch brake adjusted. I got that adjusted but I'm thinking I need to back off my pressure plate one notch because there a slight resistance getting out of gear to go into reverse probably from not releasing completely. A quick slight engagement then release seems to work to get the gears a little lash to move the gearshift.

Next time I run it ;I'm going to put an extension on the shift lever using a steering lever handle. That would give me a little leverage.

I have that setup on another one of my 5Us and it works nice.

I think I've seen someone post about a forked wedge to hold the knob out while adjustment is underway. If you ever have it apart, I've found that replacing all the pins and links leads to a much easier time adjusting the clutch due to eliminating the "lost motion". Or bore out the link holes and fit an oversize pin

I think I will make a tapered wedge/fork from a door shim! No need to get fancy, I failed to mention there were some hydraulic lines on the right side along with my big belly and clumsy hands. The holes were fine. I am happy to have removed the wad of string wrapped around the knob, being tidy makes me feel better. Limited space; next time with a wedge, maybe I can do it without removing so many items. Happy that there was adjustment available. My fear was the clutch was worn out, and nothing left of it. Yes on a distinct snap; I wasn't expecting to have to move it 3 holes. Maybe that is why the guy parked it! The guys buddy made the comment "good luck getting it running" as if he knew something I didn't? Anyways, its a runner and I will stretch its legs with an implement one day.

JM maybe a vehicle trim removing tool? I have seen them with the 2 prong fork ends in a V shape could work and at least you could heat the handle shaft to make easier to access the pin as a suggestion

The one I remember had ramped fork fingers but then also a flat non-tapered part so that it would stay in place. With a continous ramp/wedge, it would likely not stay wedged in. The thickness of the flat portion would need to be thick enough to hold the button disengaged but also enable easy fitment. Perhaps a neodymium magnet glued to the backside to secure it in place

Most of the time I've just held the button open with my fingers and used it as the handle to spin the pressure plate. That's of course if the threads aren't stuck.