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American bosch generator and regulator

American bosch generator and regulator

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ron oldani
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I a volunteer with the Great Lake Council Boy Scouts of America. We were given a (ex military 24 volt) caterpillar road grader ( 8t 21537 almost end of model run) to maintain the roads in our camp. This grader has an gear driven American Bosch RGR-2440 (24 volt 40 amp) generator on it, that is not wired. The generaor has two post on top. One is for field? the other is armature? but which is which? I do not see any marks for field or armature.

Two make maters worse, I found two American Bosch voltage regulator. one marked "for use with battery" RGR 2440G110 , other marked "for use without battery" RGR 2440G111. Each has two wires, one red #14, other is two #12 that go same ring terminal. Both regulator look new old stock and are sealed.

All caterpillar manuals that I have for the grader, only show 6 volt system. I have never worked on caterpillar equipment before, just car that are older then I am. (I was born in 1967) but I know there is no magic, pony motor has magneto and can be rope started so no need for battery. but I have never seen a voltage regulator without three leads, one to battery, one to field and last to armature. All caterpillar manuals that I have looked at show three leads. Any help would be appreciated!
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Fri, Jan 15, 2010 1:52 PM
Gordon.
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Hello Ron are the terminals on the generator yhe same diameter ?
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Fri, Jan 15, 2010 3:23 PM
ccjersey
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Reply to Gordon.:
Hello Ron are the terminals on the generator yhe same diameter ?
One thing about bosch is they call their alternators "generators" on their website, so this might be an alternator. I would run the engine and test for voltage between the two terminals on the "generator" and also from each one to the generator frame. Are you sure there is no + and -? Scrape the paint down to bare steel/aluminum near the terminals

I'm thinking that the regulator is for the "generator" and goes inside. Many large aftermarket alternators like a Leece-Neville have only 2 large terminals, one is positive and the other is negative. You wire whichever one you want to ground and use the other for the hot. The alternator doesn't care.

If that doesn't work out, quickest way to get to the bottom of this is take it off and go to a competent generator and starter shop with all the parts.πŸ˜„

Does it have lights and heater etc that you want to run with the 24v or direct electric starter????
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare timeπŸ˜„
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Fri, Jan 15, 2010 9:03 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ccjersey:
One thing about bosch is they call their alternators "generators" on their website, so this might be an alternator. I would run the engine and test for voltage between the two terminals on the "generator" and also from each one to the generator frame. Are you sure there is no + and -? Scrape the paint down to bare steel/aluminum near the terminals

I'm thinking that the regulator is for the "generator" and goes inside. Many large aftermarket alternators like a Leece-Neville have only 2 large terminals, one is positive and the other is negative. You wire whichever one you want to ground and use the other for the hot. The alternator doesn't care.

If that doesn't work out, quickest way to get to the bottom of this is take it off and go to a competent generator and starter shop with all the parts.πŸ˜„

Does it have lights and heater etc that you want to run with the 24v or direct electric starter????
The info I have is a little older than that model but connections should look like this. The no/battery version regulator will not use the cut-out (Bat) terminal and that configuration is only used when the load matches the generator output.

Assuming it is a 24v direct start you should use the with/battery version.

This is considered a two wire system. The ground is shown schematically but the ground connection is through the frame.

Edit:
OK, I reread your post and apparently it has pony motor start.
I'll get back to you with the no battery connection diagram.
Here is the no bat version:

Comment:
At 960 watt capacity for that generator that does not make a good match for no battery operation unless it's loaded with lights and accessories. 1-watt = approximately one candle power for lights.
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Fri, Jan 15, 2010 10:57 PM
ron oldani
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The grader is at the D-A Scout Camp in Metamora, Michigan, so I am replying from memory. The terminals on the generator are both on a isolated boss and are the same Dia. Did not see any mark + , - or F , A but will look next time I am there.

I know that some manufactors played games with what they called there product. If it has a slip rings then it has a AC output. If it has a commutator then it has a DC output. I will try to get grader started to see what output I get and mark terminals.

From walk around that I did, I think it is a 8t grader that came from cat with a 24 volt system not an 6 volt system. It has an pony motor with 24 volt starter, generator, military lights, and a magneto for the pony motor, that looks like it would work under water, I do not know about gauges but would think they are 24 volt as well.

Both bosch RGR voltage regulator are almost the size of the generator and have two wires that come out of them, and are not labeled. Thank you for the thumbnails, they are both like what I would expect to see, not like how these two regulators are wired.

It has two sets of head lights, four foward and two back, 24 volt horn and back up alarm, no cab, no heat so I also think that 960 watts is way over kill ( hit fly with slug hammer ).

It has wires for batteries but my plan is to use without battery regulator get electrical system working for gauges, then get pony motor and cab controls working, then get electric starter working, and then buy batteries and change voltage regulator to with battery.
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Sat, Jan 16, 2010 3:22 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ron oldani:
The grader is at the D-A Scout Camp in Metamora, Michigan, so I am replying from memory. The terminals on the generator are both on a isolated boss and are the same Dia. Did not see any mark + , - or F , A but will look next time I am there.

I know that some manufactors played games with what they called there product. If it has a slip rings then it has a AC output. If it has a commutator then it has a DC output. I will try to get grader started to see what output I get and mark terminals.

From walk around that I did, I think it is a 8t grader that came from cat with a 24 volt system not an 6 volt system. It has an pony motor with 24 volt starter, generator, military lights, and a magneto for the pony motor, that looks like it would work under water, I do not know about gauges but would think they are 24 volt as well.

Both bosch RGR voltage regulator are almost the size of the generator and have two wires that come out of them, and are not labeled. Thank you for the thumbnails, they are both like what I would expect to see, not like how these two regulators are wired.

It has two sets of head lights, four foward and two back, 24 volt horn and back up alarm, no cab, no heat so I also think that 960 watts is way over kill ( hit fly with slug hammer ).

It has wires for batteries but my plan is to use without battery regulator get electrical system working for gauges, then get pony motor and cab controls working, then get electric starter working, and then buy batteries and change voltage regulator to with battery.
Yes, you have some of that weird military stuff. The generator terminal tower you describe is typical Radio Shielded and Fungus Proofed. Probably similar construction for the Regulators. Sorry I don't have info other than typical industrial and commercial.
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Sat, Jan 16, 2010 4:03 AM
AJ.
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Yes, you have some of that weird military stuff. The generator terminal tower you describe is typical Radio Shielded and Fungus Proofed. Probably similar construction for the Regulators. Sorry I don't have info other than typical industrial and commercial.
Two wire cut-out's were common with three brush generators,some three brush generators had a terminal for an external field which would be hooked to a resistor switch going to ground,this was used so the output of the generator could be adjusted manually,three brush generators without an external field would have an internal one and that generator output could not be adjusted,its more than likely the generator that you have on there is not charging if its not been hooked up,you should have it off and take it to the auto electric shop for it to be ID'd,tested and sort you out a regulator to suit,then before you put it back on you need to fit a set of batteries so you can check out the electrics on the machine with battery power rather than the way you suggest running it up and using power from the generator,if there is anything wrong in any compoent or the wiring and you start the engine with the generator hooked up it or the regulator will be "burned out" in an instance,so to avoid that use battery power.
AJ
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Wed, Jan 20, 2010 12:25 AM
ron oldani
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Reply to AJ.:
Two wire cut-out's were common with three brush generators,some three brush generators had a terminal for an external field which would be hooked to a resistor switch going to ground,this was used so the output of the generator could be adjusted manually,three brush generators without an external field would have an internal one and that generator output could not be adjusted,its more than likely the generator that you have on there is not charging if its not been hooked up,you should have it off and take it to the auto electric shop for it to be ID'd,tested and sort you out a regulator to suit,then before you put it back on you need to fit a set of batteries so you can check out the electrics on the machine with battery power rather than the way you suggest running it up and using power from the generator,if there is anything wrong in any compoent or the wiring and you start the engine with the generator hooked up it or the regulator will be "burned out" in an instance,so to avoid that use battery power.
AJ
Hello Everone
I would like to bring you up to date.

Both terminals on the generator are 8-32 studs with nuts and lock washers.
I did not see and + or- marks, but found a 3-67 stamped, (I think date made)

Also found "use RGR 2440-C-217 regular " on data plate of generator. If anyone has wiring diagram I would appreciate a posting.

Starter is a Remy model 1109906 sn 338 marked 24 volts. looks like starter in parts book but 24 volts not 6 volts

Magneto has a caterpillar name plate but has American Bosch model
4/2360c-420 sn 3a375929. Did Caterpillar put American Bosch magnetos on as a OEM part?

Has two dead 12 volt batteries wired in series.

Did not try to pull start, as it was cold and was given other very hot job! I plan to work on grader asap.

Yes I planned on using battery power to find all (I hope) of the open or shorted wires in the electrical system, it is not a good idea to "turn it on" to see what happens. It is a lot easer to keep the smoke in, then to put it back, after it gets out!

P.S. I was told that the caterpillar D318 has dippers on the rod caps( same as very old cars) and that is why, you check the oil after it is running. I find this hard to believe, but would believe there are places in engine that will hold oil when engine is running. If you check oil level when running, how do you know if it is safe to start?

thanks Ron
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Fri, Jan 22, 2010 1:34 PM
ccjersey
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Reply to ron oldani:
Hello Everone
I would like to bring you up to date.

Both terminals on the generator are 8-32 studs with nuts and lock washers.
I did not see and + or- marks, but found a 3-67 stamped, (I think date made)

Also found "use RGR 2440-C-217 regular " on data plate of generator. If anyone has wiring diagram I would appreciate a posting.

Starter is a Remy model 1109906 sn 338 marked 24 volts. looks like starter in parts book but 24 volts not 6 volts

Magneto has a caterpillar name plate but has American Bosch model
4/2360c-420 sn 3a375929. Did Caterpillar put American Bosch magnetos on as a OEM part?

Has two dead 12 volt batteries wired in series.

Did not try to pull start, as it was cold and was given other very hot job! I plan to work on grader asap.

Yes I planned on using battery power to find all (I hope) of the open or shorted wires in the electrical system, it is not a good idea to "turn it on" to see what happens. It is a lot easer to keep the smoke in, then to put it back, after it gets out!

P.S. I was told that the caterpillar D318 has dippers on the rod caps( same as very old cars) and that is why, you check the oil after it is running. I find this hard to believe, but would believe there are places in engine that will hold oil when engine is running. If you check oil level when running, how do you know if it is safe to start?

thanks Ron
Checking the oil........
Basically just make sure it has oil over the full mark on the stick before you crank it. While turning the main with the pony motor, make sure it builds up oil pressure before opening the throttle. Then once it gets running and warmed up well, check and add to full mark if necessary. There is a shield around the stick so it doesn't get splattered with oil spray when the engine is running. This allows oil to be checked without shutting down the engine which is nice in some situations. On some later engines, CAT put 2 full marks on the stick, one for running and one for engine stopped.

No, there are no dippers on the rod caps in the diesel. It is a full pressure system (in the tractors, there is a scavenge pump to pull oil from both the front and back secondary sumps of the oil pan and return it to the main sump so the tractor can safely operate on extreme slopes. The grader has a scavenge pump section on the main pump and front suction bell as well as the main pump and suction. The last graders with the D318 had an oil clutch and had a secondary section of the oil pump to put engine oil into the clutch unlike the tractors with oil clutches which have separate compartments for engine and clutch oil.

The starting motor is "splash" lubricated and along with the fact that it only holds 1 1/2 quarts of oil, does not survive well with diluted oil. This is the reason for the long standing recommendation to shut the pony down by shutting off the gasoline instead of killing the mag. You must have a tight shutoff as well. 😊

Yes, CAT used American Bosch magnetos with CAT part numbers on the tag. In some of the older parts books, D25J with Eiseman mag for example) the manufacturer's part numbers are listed as well as the CAT part numbers for the mag and individual parts.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare timeπŸ˜„
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Fri, Jan 22, 2010 8:35 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ccjersey:
Checking the oil........
Basically just make sure it has oil over the full mark on the stick before you crank it. While turning the main with the pony motor, make sure it builds up oil pressure before opening the throttle. Then once it gets running and warmed up well, check and add to full mark if necessary. There is a shield around the stick so it doesn't get splattered with oil spray when the engine is running. This allows oil to be checked without shutting down the engine which is nice in some situations. On some later engines, CAT put 2 full marks on the stick, one for running and one for engine stopped.

No, there are no dippers on the rod caps in the diesel. It is a full pressure system (in the tractors, there is a scavenge pump to pull oil from both the front and back secondary sumps of the oil pan and return it to the main sump so the tractor can safely operate on extreme slopes. The grader has a scavenge pump section on the main pump and front suction bell as well as the main pump and suction. The last graders with the D318 had an oil clutch and had a secondary section of the oil pump to put engine oil into the clutch unlike the tractors with oil clutches which have separate compartments for engine and clutch oil.

The starting motor is "splash" lubricated and along with the fact that it only holds 1 1/2 quarts of oil, does not survive well with diluted oil. This is the reason for the long standing recommendation to shut the pony down by shutting off the gasoline instead of killing the mag. You must have a tight shutoff as well. 😊

Yes, CAT used American Bosch magnetos with CAT part numbers on the tag. In some of the older parts books, D25J with Eiseman mag for example) the manufacturer's part numbers are listed as well as the CAT part numbers for the mag and individual parts.
Again, you are dealing with odd ball military parts.
I have the starter identification numbers for non military Delco Remy from 1934 - 1991 and they skip over the 1109906 number.

The Mag is a good number that converts back to a Cat #9F5113 but is a rarely used model that is not listed in with the common engines of that era.

Same with the regulator...RGR 2440 units are fairly common but not the C-217 designation.

Best bet might be to contact some of the military equipment restoration and parts suppliers.
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Fri, Jan 22, 2010 11:51 PM
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