After battery shorted to frame is Voltage regulator toast?

Battery explosions is always one of my biggest fears!
Thank God that you seemed to come out of it with no lasting injuries!
Jeff

The regulator is a part #2M6497 (24v, 15a) or Delco #X-41005.
It's shown attached to the wiring harness.

Seeing as how you are already belt drive I'd recommend the alternator route with built in regulator.

You should have 24V at the BAT terminal on the regulator when the batteries are connected,(if not find out why) the isolator switch on and the circuit breaker closed,if you have no charge showing try polarizing the generator,with the main switch on,engine stopped,momentarily connect the BAT terminal with the ARM terminal on the regulator(like striking a match),start the engine and check it,if you have no charge consider OM's advise to go alternator it is good advise.
AJ

As you say that the voltage regulator 'shot out plenty of sparks' then I'd guess you've oxidised a contact in there or maybe fried a solenoid winding.

Here in the UK the old fashioned 2 or 3 solenoid mechanical voltage regulators are cheap enough (suspect Chinese copies) though 24volt ones are probably thinner on the ground.

An alternator with the correct sized pulley will give a battery charge at idle, something most dynamos don't do, but you may need to uprate the charging wiring sizes if going for a hefty truck one, and any ammeter speced for the old dynamo charging system in the circuit will probably end up with a bent needle and produce smoke! Finally for the alternator installation you (generally) need to incorporate a correct wattage warning lamp to get the thing to charge as it works in conjunction with the field coils, this needs a switch adding if one isn't already fitted. Also you'll have to think about pulley cross-sections as modern V belt pulleys won't mate to the thicker older belts, as a rule.

I've done this job on a few tractors and it takes a few hours work and some head scratching! My temptation is to fix the system you have if a reg. is all you need👍

Julian.

[quote="Julian"]As you say that the voltage regulator 'shot out plenty of sparks' then I'd guess you've oxidised a contact in there or maybe fried a solenoid winding.

Here in the UK the old fashioned 2 or 3 solenoid mechanical voltage regulators are cheap enough (suspect Chinese copies) though 24volt ones are probably thinner on the ground.

An alternator with the correct sized pulley will give a battery charge at idle, something most dynamos don't do, but you may need to uprate the charging wiring sizes if going for a hefty truck one, and any ammeter speced for the old dynamo charging system in the circuit will probably end up with a bent needle and produce smoke! Finally for the alternator installation you (generally) need to incorporate a correct wattage warning lamp to get the thing to charge as it works in conjunction with the field coils, this needs a switch adding if one isn't already fitted. Also you'll have to think about pulley cross-sections as modern V belt pulleys won't mate to the thicker older belts, as a rule.

I've done this job on a few tractors and it takes a few hours work and some head scratching! My temptation is to fix the system you have if a reg. is all you need👍

Julian.[/quote]

With the high voltage you read on your meter, that indicates an open circuit from the regulator to the battery connection.

I just thought it was odd that I didn't measure at least the 25V I was seeing on the battery terminals, on the regulator.


Is it possible my Ammeter is opened? If so Doesn't that imply I cannot charge even if I replace the regulator.

When looking at the schematic I cannot see any other path for the regulator to charge the battery.

What is the purpose of the big condenser looking element next to the start/heat switch?

[quote="denwa"]I just thought it was odd that I didn't measure at least the 25V I was seeing on the battery terminals, on the regulator.


Is it possible my Ammeter is opened? If so Doesn't that imply I cannot charge even if I replace the regulator.

When looking at the schematic I cannot see any other path for the regulator to charge the battery.

What is the purpose of the big condenser looking element next to the start/heat switch?[/quote]

When you ground out a battery,, the charging circuit could have been breached anywhere along the path. The ammeter could be the problem, or on some regulators, I have seen resistors and connectors on the under side of the unit. The big condensor on the switch could be that, if it has only one wire, and is grounded by the case. If it has two wires, it is most likely a resistor. The schematic should show a zig zag line if it is a resistor.

There is no condenser....I think your looking at the glow plug solenoid.
Yes you need a circuit through the ammeter to get to the batteries.
There is also a circuit breaker involved in the ammeter circuit.

[quote="Old Magnet"]There is no condenser....I think your looking at the glow plug solenoid.
Yes you need a circuit through the ammeter to get to the batteries.
There is also a circuit breaker involved in the ammeter circuit.[/quote]

Now that I've looked closer at the diagram, it seems the Ammeter would have to be working for the Heat/Start switch to work.

So if I can start, the Ammeter and the circuit breaker must be good. Why do I still have no voltage on the regulator?