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Advice on bent track rails

Advice on bent track rails

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I'd like your advice on what I should do about the bent track frame rails on my CAT22. Here are a couple photos that clearly show[attachment=11681]HPIM3668.jpg[/attachment] how badly they are bent. The idler shaft was broken and I do not think I could reassemble the idler with the frame rails bent the way they are. Do any of you have experience with this sort of thing? Is it possible to straighten the rails, or do I need to try to find replacement rails? If so, do you know where I can get them. Thanks, Ray
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2F5209 CAT 22, 1967 E-Type Jaguar OTS, Trek 2300 road bike
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Thu, Jan 5, 2012 1:42 AM
Old Magnet
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I have recovered some pretty mangled up early D4 rails by heating, pressing, welding and grinding. I do have an I-beam leveling table that I can anchor things to, as well as using the two frames back to back as bucking frames. Much like vehicle frame straightening only much heavier iron and forces required. The time consuming part is welding up worn surfaces and grinding them back to original, especially the ones inside the channel iron.
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Thu, Jan 5, 2012 2:46 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I have recovered some pretty mangled up early D4 rails by heating, pressing, welding and grinding. I do have an I-beam leveling table that I can anchor things to, as well as using the two frames back to back as bucking frames. Much like vehicle frame straightening only much heavier iron and forces required. The time consuming part is welding up worn surfaces and grinding them back to original, especially the ones inside the channel iron.
Ray--the track frame rail on one side of my D2 was cracked, spliced, and bent out so much they had used U bolts to hold down the idler assembly. I ground,heated, jacked ,twisted, welded and flitch plated it to be parallel and straight and true.(almost!) Just takes a lot of time and perseverance 😉.

PS---I also had a bent idler shaft that i had to replace---according to my Cat dealer I got the last one Cat had before they were to be destroyed--it was in Brazil!
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Thu, Jan 5, 2012 3:43 AM
side-seat
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Reply to dpendzic:
Ray--the track frame rail on one side of my D2 was cracked, spliced, and bent out so much they had used U bolts to hold down the idler assembly. I ground,heated, jacked ,twisted, welded and flitch plated it to be parallel and straight and true.(almost!) Just takes a lot of time and perseverance 😉.

PS---I also had a bent idler shaft that i had to replace---according to my Cat dealer I got the last one Cat had before they were to be destroyed--it was in Brazil!
Make new ones. I've made several including the center channel and diagonal braces. It's a waste of time trying to straighten ones that bent. Besides, the top flange is probably worn very badly too making the idler castings too sloppy where they slide.
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Thu, Jan 5, 2012 4:21 AM
chriscokid
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Reply to side-seat:
Make new ones. I've made several including the center channel and diagonal braces. It's a waste of time trying to straighten ones that bent. Besides, the top flange is probably worn very badly too making the idler castings too sloppy where they slide.
Side seat is right just do it right and replace with new steel.
You can spend alot of time trying to get it just right with alot of working involved.
You have the bolt pattern off the old ones so to make a new one is no problem.
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Thu, Jan 5, 2012 4:29 AM
ag-mike
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Reply to chriscokid:
Side seat is right just do it right and replace with new steel.
You can spend alot of time trying to get it just right with alot of working involved.
You have the bolt pattern off the old ones so to make a new one is no problem.
there should be a few being parted out with good track frames.
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Thu, Jan 5, 2012 6:28 AM
u-joint
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Reply to ag-mike:
there should be a few being parted out with good track frames.
i side with side seat!
if you can work steel you would be a fool to try to straighten those. cut the two channels off where the damage starts and weld in new channel. vee the two pieces to be butted and fill with weld. if you want the strongest possible weld, do not cut 90 degrees accross the channel. cut at least 45 if not 30 degrees, you have a longer weld this way!
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Thu, Jan 5, 2012 8:51 AM
Mike Walsh
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Reply to u-joint:
i side with side seat!
if you can work steel you would be a fool to try to straighten those. cut the two channels off where the damage starts and weld in new channel. vee the two pieces to be butted and fill with weld. if you want the strongest possible weld, do not cut 90 degrees accross the channel. cut at least 45 if not 30 degrees, you have a longer weld this way!
Just curious. Does the Model 22 swing frame use a standard profile channel or is the profile proprietary to CAT.
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Thu, Jan 5, 2012 9:23 AM
Steve A
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Reply to Mike Walsh:
Just curious. Does the Model 22 swing frame use a standard profile channel or is the profile proprietary to CAT.
I made new track frames for my small 15 and Dad and I are in the process of changing a bent up channel on his 30, common 6 inch channel, Dad and friend got the holes drilled, I wouldent cut n splice, just make a new one. its not a big job, just be accurate on drilling the holes
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Thu, Jan 5, 2012 9:54 AM
neil
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Reply to Steve A:
I made new track frames for my small 15 and Dad and I are in the process of changing a bent up channel on his 30, common 6 inch channel, Dad and friend got the holes drilled, I wouldent cut n splice, just make a new one. its not a big job, just be accurate on drilling the holes
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Ray, the other thing I'd seriously contemplate is getting rid of the blade off the 22 (I'd assume it has a blade from that non-standard mount attached to the frames). They weren't designed for them, and looking at your particular application, the forces are applied through the undercarriage frames (my 22 has a cable lift blade running from the top of the radiator which is also not ideal). I could imagine that some of the issue you have is due to that blade arrangement. Still, if you fit new frame rails, and baby it, it should hold up ok.
Cheers,
Neil.
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Thu, Jan 5, 2012 11:02 AM
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Reply to neil:
Ray, the other thing I'd seriously contemplate is getting rid of the blade off the 22 (I'd assume it has a blade from that non-standard mount attached to the frames). They weren't designed for them, and looking at your particular application, the forces are applied through the undercarriage frames (my 22 has a cable lift blade running from the top of the radiator which is also not ideal). I could imagine that some of the issue you have is due to that blade arrangement. Still, if you fit new frame rails, and baby it, it should hold up ok.
Cheers,
Neil.
[quote="Neil"]Ray, the other thing I'd seriously contemplate is getting rid of the blade off the 22 (I'd assume it has a blade from that non-standard mount attached to the frames). They weren't designed for them, and looking at your particular application, the forces are applied through the undercarriage frames (my 22 has a cable lift blade running from the top of the radiator which is also not ideal). I could imagine that some of the issue you have is due to that blade arrangement. Still, if you fit new frame rails, and baby it, it should hold up ok.
Cheers,
Neil.[/quote]

Neil, it looks like the consensus is to either make new rails or find some good used ones. I think I'll first try to find a good used frame within a day's drive. If I have no luck at that I'll look at making new rails.

Thanks everyone for your advice. If you have a good used frame you will part with and are not too far from Albany, NY, please let me know.

Best regards, Ray
***********************
2F5209 CAT 22, 1967 E-Type Jaguar OTS, Trek 2300 road bike
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Thu, Jan 5, 2012 9:44 PM
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