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9u D6 steering clutch

9u D6 steering clutch

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Linkbeltcrane
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Well spring is near . I need advice . i hear tell most likely i have grease/oil on steering clutch. Word has it i can remove plugs under steering clutches to allow grease to exit. Then fill with vinegar and run a bit to clean disk in clutch. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. Thanks
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Sun, Mar 17, 2019 9:04 PM
bursitis
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i am by far inexperienced on this problem but i would use diesel first.
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Sun, Mar 17, 2019 9:35 PM
Ray54
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Reply to bursitis:
i am by far inexperienced on this problem but i would use diesel first.
If you have rust already then a acid like vinegar may help. But not where I would start to clean up oil and grease.


I had a D6 that stopped pulling with one track in a matter of an hour or so, turned out the springs putting pressure to the clutch to drive it where very weak. I don't understand how they gave up all at once to not work so fast. I disced a 7 acre field all on a contour and tractor pulled and turned both directions. Moved to a 2 acre that was a up and down. First pass up pulled one lever to correct and tractor stopped. As it was very straight I finished field and limped it home a mile+ and the only part wrong was steering clutch springs were very much used up. I still don't understand how it could change so fast as the lever was not way out of a adjustment. But with no history on the machine other than looking seeing lots of ware on many parts. The spring where not tested on the last rebuild would be my guess.
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Mon, Mar 18, 2019 5:45 AM
ccjersey
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One thing to remember is whatever you put into the steering clutch compartments can easily pass into the adjacent oil filled compartments on these old machines. I have experienced water migration through pto shaft seals that were not leaking oil OUT, when the seal was immersed in water a few inches while the pto was turning So don't put in more than enough to have the clutches dip into it when they are rotating. There is nothing to be gained by filling them higher and potentially lots to be lost.

I would stick to petroleum solvents like kerosene and diesel. If you wanted to get fancy, a parts washer solvent would probably work well.

I would proceed under the assumption that this washing process will result in a nice cleaning in preparation for the eventual removal and repair of the clutch. AND I WOULD CAREFULLY CHECK THE FREE TRAVEL OF THE CLUTCH LEVERS AND THAT THERE ARE NO FOREIGN OBJECTS BLOCKING THE LEVER FROM RETURNING FULLY FORWARD.

GOOD LUCK
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Mar 18, 2019 9:42 PM
TOGNOT
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Reply to ccjersey:
One thing to remember is whatever you put into the steering clutch compartments can easily pass into the adjacent oil filled compartments on these old machines. I have experienced water migration through pto shaft seals that were not leaking oil OUT, when the seal was immersed in water a few inches while the pto was turning So don't put in more than enough to have the clutches dip into it when they are rotating. There is nothing to be gained by filling them higher and potentially lots to be lost.

I would stick to petroleum solvents like kerosene and diesel. If you wanted to get fancy, a parts washer solvent would probably work well.

I would proceed under the assumption that this washing process will result in a nice cleaning in preparation for the eventual removal and repair of the clutch. AND I WOULD CAREFULLY CHECK THE FREE TRAVEL OF THE CLUTCH LEVERS AND THAT THERE ARE NO FOREIGN OBJECTS BLOCKING THE LEVER FROM RETURNING FULLY FORWARD.

GOOD LUCK
remove the brake adjustment bolt on the bottom of the housing or you will leave a fair amount of fluid in there when you are "flushing". you can remove the (approximately) 4 " square plate from the back of the main case to get "some" access.

you may find more than oil in there. more likely sludge, made of oil, dirt and who knows. you can make a tool from steel or aluminum that is several inches long ( flat plate - about 1/2" wide) with a 90 bend about 1/2 " long at the end. feed it through where you can and pull the sludge towards the drain holes.

I know I'll get grief for this but nothing worked for me cleaning those compartments other than ( gasp!)
gasoline .
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Fri, Mar 22, 2019 11:51 AM
cojhl2
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Reply to TOGNOT:
remove the brake adjustment bolt on the bottom of the housing or you will leave a fair amount of fluid in there when you are "flushing". you can remove the (approximately) 4 " square plate from the back of the main case to get "some" access.

you may find more than oil in there. more likely sludge, made of oil, dirt and who knows. you can make a tool from steel or aluminum that is several inches long ( flat plate - about 1/2" wide) with a 90 bend about 1/2 " long at the end. feed it through where you can and pull the sludge towards the drain holes.

I know I'll get grief for this but nothing worked for me cleaning those compartments other than ( gasp!)
gasoline .
[quote="TOGNOT"]remove the brake adjustment bolt on the bottom of the housing or you will leave a fair amount of fluid in there when you are "flushing". you can remove the (approximately) 4 " square plate from the back of the main case to get "some" access.

you may find more than oil in there. more likely sludge, made of oil, dirt and who knows. you can make a tool from steel or aluminum that is several inches long ( flat plate - about 1/2" wide) with a 90 bend about 1/2 " long at the end. feed it through where you can and pull the sludge towards the drain holes.

I know I'll get grief for this but nothing worked for me cleaning those compartments other than ( gasp!)
gasoline .[/quote]

I used to use Gasoline, made sure the case was shut tight and then ran the tractor around working the clutches and brakes making sure to not get too hot. then wait and drain. Never had an issue.
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Sat, Mar 23, 2019 4:16 AM
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