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977 20A clutch oil

977 20A clutch oil

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haywood
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The filler and dip stick on direcltly behind the engine oil, can someone help educate me a little on this? It's an intermiddiate housing, guessing main clutch?

It seems to like oil, is it for the main clutch? Would john deere corn head grease work in it? The grease is designed for leaky gearboxes, turns to oil at a very low temp, then back to lightweight grease.

What all oil's will it tolerate?
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Wed, Oct 9, 2019 4:33 AM
cheshire cat
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[quote="haywood"]The filler and dip stick on direcltly behind the engine oil, can someone help educate me a little on this? It's an intermiddiate housing, guessing main clutch?

It seems to like oil, is it for the main clutch? Would john deere corn head grease work in it? The grease is designed for leaky gearboxes, turns to oil at a very low temp, then back to lightweight grease.

What all oil's will it tolerate?[/quote]
I think cat recommended SAE 30 engine oil
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Wed, Oct 9, 2019 4:45 AM
haywood
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wondering if the cheap tractor/hydrualic oil would work in it or would rather fill it full of greae and forget it
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Wed, Oct 9, 2019 5:16 AM
ccjersey
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I doubt grease is going to be a good solution. The clutch has an oil pump to circulate oil through the clutch disks keeping them cool and clean. There is no filter though, just a coarse suction screen on the pump pickup.

Either use motor oil like the manual says or i like a universal tractor hydraulic transmission fluid like Chevron 1000 or the "303" fluid. You could go for a higher quality JD HyGard or CaseIH HyTran for at least twice the cost. Since there's no filter I think the better plan would be to use cheaper fluid and change oil more often than buying the best there is and never changing it.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, Oct 9, 2019 5:52 AM
edb
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Reply to ccjersey:
I doubt grease is going to be a good solution. The clutch has an oil pump to circulate oil through the clutch disks keeping them cool and clean. There is no filter though, just a coarse suction screen on the pump pickup.

Either use motor oil like the manual says or i like a universal tractor hydraulic transmission fluid like Chevron 1000 or the "303" fluid. You could go for a higher quality JD HyGard or CaseIH HyTran for at least twice the cost. Since there's no filter I think the better plan would be to use cheaper fluid and change oil more often than buying the best there is and never changing it.
Hi Team,
modern engine oils have different slippery additives in them that are much different to the whale oil additive that was used when the original oil requirements were written for these machines.

Check and clean, if needed, the Flywheel Clutch Housing breather, as the clutch warms during operation pressure in here could force oil out into the engine via the non-positive rear main crankshaft seal where the oil scroll draws oil back towards the engine during operation.

As CCJ suggests to go with the Universal Tractor Trans oil would be the best solution-- better still, where is the oil going--do you have a visible leak that could be fixed easily.

Also be aware that oil can transfer into or out of the clutch compartment from the engine in a steep nose down or up position when operating on steep inclines.

Although not your problem, you should be aware that Clogged D318 engine crankcase breathers can cause engine oil to transfer back into the clutch compartment as the rear main seal is simply a scroll thread like affair and so not positive.

Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Wed, Oct 9, 2019 6:51 AM
haywood
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
modern engine oils have different slippery additives in them that are much different to the whale oil additive that was used when the original oil requirements were written for these machines.

Check and clean, if needed, the Flywheel Clutch Housing breather, as the clutch warms during operation pressure in here could force oil out into the engine via the non-positive rear main crankshaft seal where the oil scroll draws oil back towards the engine during operation.

As CCJ suggests to go with the Universal Tractor Trans oil would be the best solution-- better still, where is the oil going--do you have a visible leak that could be fixed easily.

Also be aware that oil can transfer into or out of the clutch compartment from the engine in a steep nose down or up position when operating on steep inclines.

Although not your problem, you should be aware that Clogged D318 engine crankcase breathers can cause engine oil to transfer back into the clutch compartment as the rear main seal is simply a scroll thread like affair and so not positive.

Cheers,
Eddie B.
ok i'll skip the grease, do they want this checked with machine running or off?
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Wed, Oct 9, 2019 9:19 AM
edb
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Reply to haywood:
ok i'll skip the grease, do they want this checked with machine running or off?
Hi Team,
my Grey D6 8U-9U Tractor OMI, Form No FEO12692-12, dated 06/61, says with "Engine Stopped"
Naturally do this on level ground-side tilt away from the stick would show low oil level and vice versa.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Wed, Oct 9, 2019 11:13 AM
Ray54
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
my Grey D6 8U-9U Tractor OMI, Form No FEO12692-12, dated 06/61, says with "Engine Stopped"
Naturally do this on level ground-side tilt away from the stick would show low oil level and vice versa.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
I don't know where you are on in your "Cat education". The oil clutch will stand up to slipping like nothing else will. I have replaced one in a D6 that "normal wear surface" was in like new condition,but the teeth on the outer edge were almost gone. The D6 wet clutch will leak at the out put shaft,starts oiling you boots.
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Thu, Oct 10, 2019 5:10 AM
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