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955L Torque converter

955L Torque converter

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dozerdoc
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I have a slightly complexing problem presented to me this week. Torque converter overheating in a 955L. I have recently replaced oil cooler due to leakage with new aftermarket.
Changed filter with no particles seen after cutting filter apart. Magnetic screen had a small amount of debris on it.
Checked all pressures and found torque inlet was about 100 psi cold, and fell to about 50 psi when warm, which are both way under spec...135 psi. Both the speed and direction clutches were right on spec, and did not change when the torque was being tested...3rd speed stall.
Disassembled control valve, no blown o-rings, bench tested relief valve, it was at 120 psi, and I added a spacer to bring it to 140.
I decided to remove torque thinking it was going bad, only to find nothing that stands out as being wrong.
It does have the brass bearings internally as opposed to the roller bearings, and a few of them appear to be sloppy with their respective mating surface. The rear one, where the oil comes in, is about the only place I can find that oil may be leaving the torque without going to the cooler, and I can not find a running clearance spec for it.
Has anyone had this issue before??? Did replacing the bearings correct it??? Is there something else that I'm not thinking of???
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Fri, Jun 13, 2008 6:43 AM
Old Magnet
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Need to snag "Bob/Ont" on this one😊 😊
Usual causes of torque overheating are excessive internal clearances, cooler issues which you have addressed and excessive oil (drag) in the torque converter housing. Check your scavenge pump.
Sorry, I only have clearance specs for the earlier 955 (60A) model.
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Fri, Jun 13, 2008 11:09 PM
catsilver
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Need to snag "Bob/Ont" on this one😊 😊
Usual causes of torque overheating are excessive internal clearances, cooler issues which you have addressed and excessive oil (drag) in the torque converter housing. Check your scavenge pump.
Sorry, I only have clearance specs for the earlier 955 (60A) model.
The inlet relief valve has no bearing on overheat problems, it is only there to prevent blowing the T/C apart when the oil is cold, you need to check the outlet relief pressure, lube pressure and the temperature drop across the cooler, then you will be able to get a better idea of what is going wrong.
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Sat, Jun 14, 2008 5:28 AM
dozerdoc
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Reply to catsilver:
The inlet relief valve has no bearing on overheat problems, it is only there to prevent blowing the T/C apart when the oil is cold, you need to check the outlet relief pressure, lube pressure and the temperature drop across the cooler, then you will be able to get a better idea of what is going wrong.
I figured it out. I put all new bearings in it, and couln't find anything that was excessively worn. When I went to install the rear bearing on the shaft, I realized that the seal ring carrier fit very loosly on the shaft. This would allow the oil to leak into the sump as opposed to go to the cooler.
It appears to be a fairly new aftermarket shaft, that was machined only for the bearing, and was never built for the carrier, however, the snap ring groove was in the right place.
A little time on the lathe produced a bushing to correct the problem and I placed it using bearing mount. We'll see tomorrow how it works.
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Sat, Jun 14, 2008 8:31 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to dozerdoc:
I figured it out. I put all new bearings in it, and couln't find anything that was excessively worn. When I went to install the rear bearing on the shaft, I realized that the seal ring carrier fit very loosly on the shaft. This would allow the oil to leak into the sump as opposed to go to the cooler.
It appears to be a fairly new aftermarket shaft, that was machined only for the bearing, and was never built for the carrier, however, the snap ring groove was in the right place.
A little time on the lathe produced a bushing to correct the problem and I placed it using bearing mount. We'll see tomorrow how it works.
That's some good sleuth work😊 😊
Could very well be the problem.
From your description the 955H (60A) sounds about the same as the "L" arrangement so I am posting the info I have.....kinda fuzzy...hope you can read it.
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Sat, Jun 14, 2008 10:02 AM
bob
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Reply to Old Magnet:
That's some good sleuth work😊 😊
Could very well be the problem.
From your description the 955H (60A) sounds about the same as the "L" arrangement so I am posting the info I have.....kinda fuzzy...hope you can read it.
When you get it together, come on back with the pump pressure at high and low idle with hot oil.
Later Bob
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Sat, Jun 14, 2008 11:39 AM
bob
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Reply to bob:
When you get it together, come on back with the pump pressure at high and low idle with hot oil.
Later Bob
Just reread everything DD, the seal ring can cause a problem but if it was really bad like one I tested with the ring missing the Torque inlet pressure would be much lower as the torque under load will pump oil out faster than the trans pump can supply it and pull inlet pressure down below outlet pressure. Hard to believe but I found it once.
Now if the pump pressure with warm oil doesn't hold 90% of value at high idle when you throttle down to low idle check pump.
If pressure is good at low idle feel the cooler lines up to cooler, should be a block that both go through along the LH side of frame near front engine mount. Look for one cool line beyond that block. It contains a cooler bypass like a temp regulater in cooling system. Lets oil bypass cooler untill oil is warm. They sometimes stay open and need replacing.
Later Bob
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Sat, Jun 14, 2008 10:55 PM
Dapeter37
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Reply to bob:
Just reread everything DD, the seal ring can cause a problem but if it was really bad like one I tested with the ring missing the Torque inlet pressure would be much lower as the torque under load will pump oil out faster than the trans pump can supply it and pull inlet pressure down below outlet pressure. Hard to believe but I found it once.
Now if the pump pressure with warm oil doesn't hold 90% of value at high idle when you throttle down to low idle check pump.
If pressure is good at low idle feel the cooler lines up to cooler, should be a block that both go through along the LH side of frame near front engine mount. Look for one cool line beyond that block. It contains a cooler bypass like a temp regulater in cooling system. Lets oil bypass cooler untill oil is warm. They sometimes stay open and need replacing.
Later Bob
I am having same issue with my 955l run for about an 1 1/2 then converter temp starts getting hot hey Bob how easy is to chenge that regulator out on the cooling lines that you where talking about any help would be greatly appreciated kind of new at this
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Thu, Dec 17, 2015 6:05 AM
bob
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Reply to Dapeter37:
I am having same issue with my 955l run for about an 1 1/2 then converter temp starts getting hot hey Bob how easy is to chenge that regulator out on the cooling lines that you where talking about any help would be greatly appreciated kind of new at this

You should be able to get a big socket onto it from the bottom. Get it warm and feel the cooler lines all the way to the cooler before you replace the valve.
Later Bob
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Thu, Dec 17, 2015 7:52 AM
Dapeter37
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Reply to bob:

You should be able to get a big socket onto it from the bottom. Get it warm and feel the cooler lines all the way to the cooler before you replace the valve.
Later Bob
hey bob when i get it warmed up what should i be looking for as far cooler lines go how do i know if the regulator needs changed
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Tue, Dec 22, 2015 5:45 AM
bob
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Reply to Dapeter37:
hey bob when i get it warmed up what should i be looking for as far cooler lines go how do i know if the regulator needs changed
When the oil is warm you can feel the temp in the cooler lines as you run your hands down them from the torque to the cooler and back to the trans. If the regulator is open and letting the oil bypass the cooler you will feel cooler temp in the lines beyond the valve block going to the cooler.
Later Bob
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Tue, Dec 22, 2015 11:54 AM
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