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955K final drive

955K final drive

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HCFarmer
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I recently bought a 955K ser. 85J. It has a few issues I'm working on, but one that has me worried is the Finals. It slowly drifts to the left when its in any gear foreword or reverse. At first I thought it might be a clutch slipping, as the left side quit functioning one day, but a few minutes later, it was OK. It hasn't repeated this again. The left side clutch doesn't seem to engage quite as hard as the right side. I can load it down and push the right side pedal, and the left side track chews up the ground, and shows no sign of wanting to stall. The oil is clean, and I guess the used equipment dealer did that after the 5 Gallon overhaul. It is loosing some oil from the transmission into the left side final, but at a very slow rate.

I had read that the 12As had a different ratio in the Final than the 85J. I was wondering if it would be possible that somewhere down the line, someone repaired the final and used the wrong gears? Is this possible to do something like this? I replaced all the sprocket segments on both sides when I got it, so I know they are the same circumference. All the rollers are the same height also.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Mon, Mar 15, 2010 3:50 AM
Old Magnet
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Your going to far back to compare with a 12a. Early units shared final gears with the 60a until they changed to coarse pitch gears. What is your serial number?
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Mon, Mar 15, 2010 5:13 AM
edb
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Your going to far back to compare with a 12a. Early units shared final gears with the 60a until they changed to coarse pitch gears. What is your serial number?
Hi Team,
in the past I have found track frame mis-alignment as one cause of the above, check the track frames for parallel and truth to the machine center line by measuring across and diagonally using the center drillings in each front and rear roller shaft as the measure points. The track frames should be parallel +/- 1/8"
Also one track worn more than its mate can cause run-off. The longer track may seem odd as one would expect that with an equal number of links per track that would pass over the sprockets would still come out as the same distance traveled on the ground but in practice it does not and the machine self steers.
You can check this by noting the idler position on each track frame.
From the description of the odd operation of 1 side steering clutch it would seem that the operator has favoured turning in one direction and may have worn one track more than the other, also digging with one corner of the bucket and slipping the clutch to keep going straight loads one track more than the other.
Just some starting points to check.
OM has covered the earlier model machines with the course and fine F/D gears. Cat actually recommended at the time to only change the failed side and to tell the owner that his machine would run-off!!!!

Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Mon, Mar 15, 2010 5:50 AM
bob
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
in the past I have found track frame mis-alignment as one cause of the above, check the track frames for parallel and truth to the machine center line by measuring across and diagonally using the center drillings in each front and rear roller shaft as the measure points. The track frames should be parallel +/- 1/8"
Also one track worn more than its mate can cause run-off. The longer track may seem odd as one would expect that with an equal number of links per track that would pass over the sprockets would still come out as the same distance traveled on the ground but in practice it does not and the machine self steers.
You can check this by noting the idler position on each track frame.
From the description of the odd operation of 1 side steering clutch it would seem that the operator has favoured turning in one direction and may have worn one track more than the other, also digging with one corner of the bucket and slipping the clutch to keep going straight loads one track more than the other.
Just some starting points to check.
OM has covered the earlier model machines with the course and fine F/D gears. Cat actually recommended at the time to only change the failed side and to tell the owner that his machine would run-off!!!!

Cheers,
Eddie B.
HC, if your final drives hold oil and the sprocket hub bearings are tight you are in good shape there. You say you changed the segmants, so the chains must have some wear. Tighten tracks right up tight and back idlers off 3/8" then compare how far forward they are as Eddy said. Worn chains with long pitch will travel faster than new chains with correct pitch. Long pitch will wear segment teeth fast too.
Later Bob
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Mon, Mar 15, 2010 11:19 AM
HCFarmer
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Reply to bob:
HC, if your final drives hold oil and the sprocket hub bearings are tight you are in good shape there. You say you changed the segmants, so the chains must have some wear. Tighten tracks right up tight and back idlers off 3/8" then compare how far forward they are as Eddy said. Worn chains with long pitch will travel faster than new chains with correct pitch. Long pitch will wear segment teeth fast too.
Later Bob
The chains on the left side have had the pins rolled, and the right side pins look aout 50%. The track shoes are very rough, having been rebuilt by someone welding 1/2" rebar on them.

I measured the idlers, and with the tracks tight, they are within1/4" of each other. That might explain some of it. I'll check the frames for proper alignment tomorrow. The finals were holding oil, but I noticed the trans level going down, and the left side final going up today. I guess its going to be seal time pretty soon.

I'll try yo get the whole ser. no. tomorrow, but I know it starts with 85J. I'm guessing its a 76 to 78 year model.

Many thanks for the help so far.
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Tue, Mar 16, 2010 11:55 AM
83Jim
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Reply to HCFarmer:
The chains on the left side have had the pins rolled, and the right side pins look aout 50%. The track shoes are very rough, having been rebuilt by someone welding 1/2" rebar on them.

I measured the idlers, and with the tracks tight, they are within1/4" of each other. That might explain some of it. I'll check the frames for proper alignment tomorrow. The finals were holding oil, but I noticed the trans level going down, and the left side final going up today. I guess its going to be seal time pretty soon.

I'll try yo get the whole ser. no. tomorrow, but I know it starts with 85J. I'm guessing its a 76 to 78 year model.

Many thanks for the help so far.
You may also try marking one sprocket tooth on each side and referencing it to a stationary point on the machine (the track frame or cover in front of the sprocket may be good) then drive the machine forward (about two machine lengths should do it) without steering to correct the drift. Next, check to see if one tooth has gained on the other.

This should tell you if there is a difference in the F/D ratios.
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Tue, Mar 16, 2010 7:09 PM
HCFarmer
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Reply to 83Jim:
You may also try marking one sprocket tooth on each side and referencing it to a stationary point on the machine (the track frame or cover in front of the sprocket may be good) then drive the machine forward (about two machine lengths should do it) without steering to correct the drift. Next, check to see if one tooth has gained on the other.

This should tell you if there is a difference in the F/D ratios.
Old Magnet,

The serial number of my machine is 85J3095.

edb,

Didn't have a chance to check the undercarriage alignment today because of rain. I'm dedicated, but not enough to climb under it in the mud (LOL).

I ordered a couple of manuals for it today. Fluid in the trans still going down, and fluid in the final going up. Guess its going to be time to pull hte final and replace the seals.

Many thanx fellas
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Tue, Mar 16, 2010 11:16 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to HCFarmer:
Old Magnet,

The serial number of my machine is 85J3095.

edb,

Didn't have a chance to check the undercarriage alignment today because of rain. I'm dedicated, but not enough to climb under it in the mud (LOL).

I ordered a couple of manuals for it today. Fluid in the trans still going down, and fluid in the final going up. Guess its going to be time to pull hte final and replace the seals.

Many thanx fellas
Final drive gearing was changed to coarse pitch at sr #1796 but I guess that doesn't mean it couldn't have been changed back. Uses the same pinion but the reduction pinion and final drive gears changed.
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Wed, Mar 17, 2010 12:07 AM
bob
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Final drive gearing was changed to coarse pitch at sr #1796 but I guess that doesn't mean it couldn't have been changed back. Uses the same pinion but the reduction pinion and final drive gears changed.
HC, is it the Powershift trans or the Steering Clutch and Bevelgear oil that is going down? That could be one problem and the Final Drive overfilling could be another. Will talk about them after.
Later Bob
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Wed, Mar 17, 2010 7:41 AM
HCFarmer
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Reply to bob:
HC, is it the Powershift trans or the Steering Clutch and Bevelgear oil that is going down? That could be one problem and the Final Drive overfilling could be another. Will talk about them after.
Later Bob
bob,

The oil loss is occuring in the bevel gear case, the rear dipstick. Converter and transmission level is staying steady. The left final drive had oil level even with the plug a few weeks ago, but when I checked it last, about 2 gallons of oil shot out. The oil level in the case started going down slowly at first, and then picked up speed. The same was true about the level in the final. The machine had sat alot before I got it, and I'm hoping its a dry seal, or trash in the seal area causing the leakage, but I doubt it.

Many thanx for the responce
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Thu, Mar 18, 2010 9:32 AM
bob
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Reply to HCFarmer:
bob,

The oil loss is occuring in the bevel gear case, the rear dipstick. Converter and transmission level is staying steady. The left final drive had oil level even with the plug a few weeks ago, but when I checked it last, about 2 gallons of oil shot out. The oil level in the case started going down slowly at first, and then picked up speed. The same was true about the level in the final. The machine had sat alot before I got it, and I'm hoping its a dry seal, or trash in the seal area causing the leakage, but I doubt it.

Many thanx for the responce
HC, what I think you have there is a pinion seal leaking. Need to lift the bevelgear shaft and clutches out to get at it. You might find as I have over the years the gasket on the pinion cage is split open. If you do find a bad gasket, the pinion cage and the steering clutch housing has a loose fit. They get pounded out over time, allowing the cage to move and break the gasket. I would use RTV silicone instead of a gasket if this is the case. Other wise it's a big expensive job, take off final drive and line bore the housing to size and build up cage and machine to fit.
Later Bob
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Fri, Mar 19, 2010 6:19 AM
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