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955H Steering Clutch Adjustment Clarification

955H Steering Clutch Adjustment Clarification

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Hookdrvr
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I've got a 955H 60A 07483 I'm adjusting the steering clutches on to decrease the amount of free play on the levers. I've got a service manual and I'm following the procedure. My question is in the manual it states to "turn the adjusting screws in as far as they will go, then back them off to the amount given in the specs or until the control levers' free movement is correct.....". Does this mean crank it in until I physically cant turn it or until it just contacts the levers/steering booster?
The left side adjuster was against the lever/steering booster and pretty snug to turn, the right side wasnt touching at all. At the top of the clutch control lever handles, I have 5-6 inches of free travel on both. Any help or clarification is appreciated.
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Tue, Dec 18, 2012 6:07 PM
catsilver
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You only just tighten the adjuster to take out all the free play then back it off, as the clutches wear, the free play will decrease, so you should adjust to increase free play, not decrease it.
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Tue, Dec 18, 2012 8:08 PM
Hookdrvr
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Reply to catsilver:
You only just tighten the adjuster to take out all the free play then back it off, as the clutches wear, the free play will decrease, so you should adjust to increase free play, not decrease it.
Catsilver,
Just to make sure I'm tracking, I run the adjuster in until it contacts the lever for the booster and then back it off the 4 turns as listed in the specs? Would backing it off give me the max travel of 3 inches at the top of the steering clutch handle/lever? I worked for a while this morning to get to the rod end and shorten the overall length of the steering clutch rod, but the cleviis pin was stuck. Once I get it out, I can shorten the rod by another 1/2" on each side. Would this take out some of the free play? Just looking at it, it makes sense that it would. The clutches still work pretty good, the right one not as good as the left, thats why I got started on trying to adjust them. But it sure is a pain to get into them.
Thanks in advance.
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Tue, Dec 18, 2012 11:57 PM
bob
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Reply to Hookdrvr:
Catsilver,
Just to make sure I'm tracking, I run the adjuster in until it contacts the lever for the booster and then back it off the 4 turns as listed in the specs? Would backing it off give me the max travel of 3 inches at the top of the steering clutch handle/lever? I worked for a while this morning to get to the rod end and shorten the overall length of the steering clutch rod, but the cleviis pin was stuck. Once I get it out, I can shorten the rod by another 1/2" on each side. Would this take out some of the free play? Just looking at it, it makes sense that it would. The clutches still work pretty good, the right one not as good as the left, thats why I got started on trying to adjust them. But it sure is a pain to get into them.
Thanks in advance.
[quote="Hookdrvr"]Catsilver,
Just to make sure I'm tracking, I run the adjuster in until it contacts the lever for the booster and then back it off the 4 turns as listed in the specs? Would backing it off give me the max travel of 3 inches at the top of the steering clutch handle/lever? I worked for a while this morning to get to the rod end and shorten the overall length of the steering clutch rod, but the cleviis pin was stuck. Once I get it out, I can shorten the rod by another 1/2" on each side. Would this take out some of the free play? Just looking at it, it makes sense that it would. The clutches still work pretty good, the right one not as good as the left, thats why I got started on trying to adjust them. But it sure is a pain to get into them.
Thanks in advance.[/quote]

Are you adjuting the big nuts on the rod through the Yoke? From what you say I wonder if there may be a cracked cage or pin at the release bearing?
Later Bob
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Wed, Dec 19, 2012 6:42 AM
Hookdrvr
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Reply to bob:
[quote="Hookdrvr"]Catsilver,
Just to make sure I'm tracking, I run the adjuster in until it contacts the lever for the booster and then back it off the 4 turns as listed in the specs? Would backing it off give me the max travel of 3 inches at the top of the steering clutch handle/lever? I worked for a while this morning to get to the rod end and shorten the overall length of the steering clutch rod, but the cleviis pin was stuck. Once I get it out, I can shorten the rod by another 1/2" on each side. Would this take out some of the free play? Just looking at it, it makes sense that it would. The clutches still work pretty good, the right one not as good as the left, thats why I got started on trying to adjust them. But it sure is a pain to get into them.
Thanks in advance.[/quote]

Are you adjuting the big nuts on the rod through the Yoke? From what you say I wonder if there may be a cracked cage or pin at the release bearing?
Later Bob
[quote="bob"]Are you adjuting the big nuts on the rod through the Yoke? From what you say I wonder if there may be a cracked cage or pin at the release bearing?
Later Bob[/quote]

Bob,
I removed the inspection cover on the back of the steering booster housing, loosened the large locknut that takes a 15/16th's wrench and turned the adjuster with a square hex on it that takes a 7/16th's wrench. The book says to first shorten the rods going to the lever so that the clevis pin has a slip fit when installed, but I was unable to get the clevis pins out to turn the rod ends. So I'm not sure if me doing that first will eliminate or reduce some of the free play in the clutch levers. If I'm missing something, let me know. It may just be that the clutches are about worn out and I'll need to replace them at some point.

Thanks.
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Wed, Dec 19, 2012 7:04 AM
bob
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Reply to Hookdrvr:
[quote="bob"]Are you adjuting the big nuts on the rod through the Yoke? From what you say I wonder if there may be a cracked cage or pin at the release bearing?
Later Bob[/quote]

Bob,
I removed the inspection cover on the back of the steering booster housing, loosened the large locknut that takes a 15/16th's wrench and turned the adjuster with a square hex on it that takes a 7/16th's wrench. The book says to first shorten the rods going to the lever so that the clevis pin has a slip fit when installed, but I was unable to get the clevis pins out to turn the rod ends. So I'm not sure if me doing that first will eliminate or reduce some of the free play in the clutch levers. If I'm missing something, let me know. It may just be that the clutches are about worn out and I'll need to replace them at some point.

Thanks.
Okay, you have lever steer, the booster is different than peddel steer. Your booster can force the clutches released with no oil, just a heavy pull. If you can feel the lever get hard when it hits the piston and then move freely the rest of the way the booster should be good. If the levers get hard to pull at different spots in their travel, take the covers off the back of the steering clutch case and look at the yokes and release bearings. That's where the big nut is. You could have a problem with the yoke cage or pins connecting them.
Later Bob
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Thu, Dec 20, 2012 5:41 AM
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