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955H rod bearing

955H rod bearing

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Goldigger
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Hi - new to forums & antique Cats. Bought a 1965 955h-60A with new noise from bottom end, changed the oil & magnetic fine fillings on top of oil filter after running couple minutes. Machine is in remote area & getting it pushed & hauled out later this month. Machine is in incredible condition other than this issue. Previous owner was convinced noise happened only after gasoline was accidentally added, so before I fired it up, was told to change injector nozzles (done). Engine has run maybe 20 minutes total since noise.

Can main bearings & crankshaft be removed via oil pan?
OR, possible to change only the damaged one(s) & carefully hand polish crank, by only removing pan?
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Sun, Feb 1, 2015 3:07 AM
Old Magnet
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By "changing nozzles" is that with new units? A bad injector can generator the rod knock noise.
Rod bearings and mains can be removed in place, oil pan off for the mains.
Crankshaft removal requires engine out.
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Sun, Feb 1, 2015 4:35 AM
AJ.
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The engine has to come out to remove the crankshaft,it is possible to change the bearings with the engine in,a knock is usually a rod bearing,remove the oil pan and the plate to have a look first,you will have to raise the loader frame up from the hard bar,undo the three bolts securing the hard bar to the frame on each side,remove the two bolts in front of the sprocket securing the loader frame to the track frame,jack up the front at least four inches over the hard bar and block it securely between the loader frame and hard bar,now you can remove the pan and oil pump and plate check the rods,if the shaft is bad the engine will have to come out to remove the shaft for grinding.
AJ
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Sun, Feb 1, 2015 4:41 AM
Goldigger
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Reply to AJ.:
The engine has to come out to remove the crankshaft,it is possible to change the bearings with the engine in,a knock is usually a rod bearing,remove the oil pan and the plate to have a look first,you will have to raise the loader frame up from the hard bar,undo the three bolts securing the hard bar to the frame on each side,remove the two bolts in front of the sprocket securing the loader frame to the track frame,jack up the front at least four inches over the hard bar and block it securely between the loader frame and hard bar,now you can remove the pan and oil pump and plate check the rods,if the shaft is bad the engine will have to come out to remove the shaft for grinding.
AJ
By "changing nozzles" is that with new units? A bad injector can generator the rod knock noise.

That's what previous owner was led to believe; changed all 4 nozzles with new Caterpillar ones.

Hoping that its just dropping the pan, thanks for your experienced answers.
Machine came with Service & Parts & Owners Manuals so reading to do.
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Sun, Feb 1, 2015 8:05 AM
AJ.
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Reply to Goldigger:
By "changing nozzles" is that with new units? A bad injector can generator the rod knock noise.

That's what previous owner was led to believe; changed all 4 nozzles with new Caterpillar ones.

Hoping that its just dropping the pan, thanks for your experienced answers.
Machine came with Service & Parts & Owners Manuals so reading to do.
Once there was metal found in the filter its a sure sign the bearing/s have picked up,it all depends on how long it was run and what damage,you may get away with a set of rod shells.
AJ
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Sun, Feb 1, 2015 8:13 AM
neil
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Reply to Goldigger:
By "changing nozzles" is that with new units? A bad injector can generator the rod knock noise.

That's what previous owner was led to believe; changed all 4 nozzles with new Caterpillar ones.

Hoping that its just dropping the pan, thanks for your experienced answers.
Machine came with Service & Parts & Owners Manuals so reading to do.
[quote="Goldigger"]By "changing nozzles" is that with new units? A bad injector can generator the rod knock noise.

That's what previous owner was led to believe; changed all 4 nozzles with new Caterpillar ones.

Hoping that its just dropping the pan, thanks for your experienced answers.
Machine came with Service & Parts & Owners Manuals so reading to do.[/quote]

Since it won't take much effort, put the old nozzles back in just to be sure that the issue wasn't introduced by the new nozzles (unless you're sure that the knock is coming from the bottom end - even injection knock can sound like it's coming from lower down)
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Sun, Feb 1, 2015 9:59 AM
rax200
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Reply to neil:
[quote="Goldigger"]By "changing nozzles" is that with new units? A bad injector can generator the rod knock noise.

That's what previous owner was led to believe; changed all 4 nozzles with new Caterpillar ones.

Hoping that its just dropping the pan, thanks for your experienced answers.
Machine came with Service & Parts & Owners Manuals so reading to do.[/quote]

Since it won't take much effort, put the old nozzles back in just to be sure that the issue wasn't introduced by the new nozzles (unless you're sure that the knock is coming from the bottom end - even injection knock can sound like it's coming from lower down)
I was taught long ago to listen for engine noise by using a long screwdriver or a length of rod and place it behind the ear and the other end on the block, this way you can pinpoint where the noise is located high or low.
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Sun, Feb 1, 2015 2:00 PM
tctractors
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Reply to rax200:
I was taught long ago to listen for engine noise by using a long screwdriver or a length of rod and place it behind the ear and the other end on the block, this way you can pinpoint where the noise is located high or low.
If you have bearing flakes in the filter pleats running the engine should be the last thing you need to do, if possible I remove the front bucket then hoist and jamb the loader frame up, remove the front nose group (rad and case) then pop out the engine, it might be worth your efforts to drop the pan and take a look at its innards, but running it might cost you the crank or the block, big ends rumble out a tune (low idle) unlike a capsule that has a knock or tap to it, if you need more convincing about your engine issue whip off the head and check piston travel, the flakes in the filter should tell you that its not a capsule.

tctractors
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Sun, Feb 1, 2015 2:18 PM
catsilver
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Reply to tctractors:
If you have bearing flakes in the filter pleats running the engine should be the last thing you need to do, if possible I remove the front bucket then hoist and jamb the loader frame up, remove the front nose group (rad and case) then pop out the engine, it might be worth your efforts to drop the pan and take a look at its innards, but running it might cost you the crank or the block, big ends rumble out a tune (low idle) unlike a capsule that has a knock or tap to it, if you need more convincing about your engine issue whip off the head and check piston travel, the flakes in the filter should tell you that its not a capsule.

tctractors
Dead right TC, that metal, and the whole filter needs further investigation, every time the engine is started from cold, the filter by-pass and lube valve both open and allow unfiltered oil around the system. It can only get worse.
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Sun, Feb 1, 2015 6:29 PM
Goldigger
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Reply to catsilver:
Dead right TC, that metal, and the whole filter needs further investigation, every time the engine is started from cold, the filter by-pass and lube valve both open and allow unfiltered oil around the system. It can only get worse.
Thanks for everyone's advice - will not start it & remove engine as suggested, attached is picture running with the issue[attachment=27359]Cat.jpeg[/attachment]
Attachment
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Mon, Feb 2, 2015 12:05 AM
AJ.
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Reply to Goldigger:
Thanks for everyone's advice - will not start it & remove engine as suggested, attached is picture running with the issue[attachment=27359]Cat.jpeg[/attachment]
Attachment
I always thought that model was nice to look at,that picture brings back memories to me of my late father who was a top notch wheeler dealer he imported loads of the predecessor of that tractor into the UK which were all pony start we used to convert them to direct start and sell them on that involved having to remove the engine as the ring gear had to be changed,the procedure for removing the engine was,belly pans off,raise the loader frame up so the bell housing will clear the hard bar,raise the bucket up full,and secure it with two 3" heavy angle iron cut to the right length,fan guard off,radiator and housing off,there are two oil lines attached to the oil cooler on the side of the engine,remove the clip retaining bolts and press the two lines down,(they are push fit up into the adapters with o'rings),remove all of the air cleaner assembly including the elbow attached to the head as it will break easily if it gets a knock,fuel line.oil pressure line wiring,2 front support bolts and now the easy bit remove all the bolts from the torque housing to the bell housing,the designer was a sadist,look on top of the cylinder head front and back,you will see two 3/4 NC bolt holes to take the lifting eyes,we used a spreader bar and two small shackles,to attach it to the eyes,I had the lifting hole to attach the hoist exactly in the right place to lift the engine at the same angle so when putting it back the slip ring seals on the torque would not get damaged,looks by the picture that the engine may be smoking for a while,the exhaust is extended and looking the wrong way,it should look at the tilt link on the right,how did the gas get in the engine?.
Happy wrenching
AJ
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Mon, Feb 2, 2015 1:23 AM
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