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955H , 1/3 rebuild

955H , 1/3 rebuild

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jrideman
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I had a problem with my 955H. Spun 2 rod bearings. So the end result is I have done a complete reman on the engine and the front half of the tractor.
Engine: Sleves, pistons,1 rod, crank, oil pump, oil cooler,reman water pump, surface and counter bore block, complete reman of head, Turbo reman.
Loader: New arm bushings, New bucket conections on arm and bucket w/ new bushings and pins, New bushings and pins in lever arm.
Going to install the engine tomorrow and hopfully have it fired up Sat.
Here are some pics of the work finished.
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Fri, Jan 14, 2011 5:36 AM
catfan
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I think crawler loaders are the most difficult machines to work on. There is always something or many things in the way of what needs worked on. I would like to restore a 977H my grandfather bought new in 65. When I look at it, it looks like a daunting and expensive undertaking. My hats off to you and who ever helps you. It looks great. catfan.
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Fri, Jan 14, 2011 9:24 AM
Sasquatch
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Reply to catfan:
I think crawler loaders are the most difficult machines to work on. There is always something or many things in the way of what needs worked on. I would like to restore a 977H my grandfather bought new in 65. When I look at it, it looks like a daunting and expensive undertaking. My hats off to you and who ever helps you. It looks great. catfan.
I always enjoy seeing other people's projects - looks like a job well done. That shiny yellow engine looks purdy.👍

Just for safety's sake I always tell anyone working around or under lifted loader frames to always be on the watch for hazardous situations, those things can be dangerous. Not that I'm criticizing anything you're doing, I'm sure you are aware of the potential too.

The thing that always keeps me on my toes when I'm around stuff like that is the memory of a local guy that was trying to do some work on his skidsteer a couple of winters ago. It was really cold outside so he had it in his car garage with the loader up only part of the way, the low ceiling prevented him from lifting it high enough to engage the safety catch. Somehow he did something to make the loader arms drop suddenly while he was between the arm and chassis, and he was pinned and killed. He was working alone and nobody noticed he was missing until the next day. We just always need to keep in mind our machines can be dangerous.
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Fri, Jan 14, 2011 10:03 AM
hicrop10
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Reply to Sasquatch:
I always enjoy seeing other people's projects - looks like a job well done. That shiny yellow engine looks purdy.👍

Just for safety's sake I always tell anyone working around or under lifted loader frames to always be on the watch for hazardous situations, those things can be dangerous. Not that I'm criticizing anything you're doing, I'm sure you are aware of the potential too.

The thing that always keeps me on my toes when I'm around stuff like that is the memory of a local guy that was trying to do some work on his skidsteer a couple of winters ago. It was really cold outside so he had it in his car garage with the loader up only part of the way, the low ceiling prevented him from lifting it high enough to engage the safety catch. Somehow he did something to make the loader arms drop suddenly while he was between the arm and chassis, and he was pinned and killed. He was working alone and nobody noticed he was missing until the next day. We just always need to keep in mind our machines can be dangerous.
Great looking machine you have there.Bring back memories of the many summers I spent on one of our 977's digging city street,loading the old Mack B61 trucks.Keep up the great work and post somemore pic.By the way where did you get the yellow paint,my Cat dealer doesn't have it anymore.Thanks MIke Durkin
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Fri, Jan 14, 2011 7:56 PM
jrideman
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Reply to hicrop10:
Great looking machine you have there.Bring back memories of the many summers I spent on one of our 977's digging city street,loading the old Mack B61 trucks.Keep up the great work and post somemore pic.By the way where did you get the yellow paint,my Cat dealer doesn't have it anymore.Thanks MIke Durkin
Got the engine back in yesterday and finished hooking up all the other lines this morning. Installed a Kats water (block) heater and fired her up. Let her run for 10 min at idle and about an hour at full working throtle. No leaks except I have a wet spot on a rusty part of the radiator. I would have put a new core in but ran out of money at this time, need to get some work done. Does anyone have a suggestion on an additive to put in the radiatorthat will seal it? Here are the pics I took today when I finished.In one pic you can see the new service meter and in another you can see the top of the water heater.
I guess the service meter pic didn't come out so well.
hicrop10 I got my paint from my PPG dealer. It is a industrial poly urethene. If you want I can get you the numbers.
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Sun, Jan 16, 2011 5:22 AM
willwingo
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Reply to jrideman:
Got the engine back in yesterday and finished hooking up all the other lines this morning. Installed a Kats water (block) heater and fired her up. Let her run for 10 min at idle and about an hour at full working throtle. No leaks except I have a wet spot on a rusty part of the radiator. I would have put a new core in but ran out of money at this time, need to get some work done. Does anyone have a suggestion on an additive to put in the radiatorthat will seal it? Here are the pics I took today when I finished.In one pic you can see the new service meter and in another you can see the top of the water heater.
I guess the service meter pic didn't come out so well.
hicrop10 I got my paint from my PPG dealer. It is a industrial poly urethene. If you want I can get you the numbers.
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Water glass- about 4 or 5 ounces.
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Sun, Jan 16, 2011 8:06 AM
hicrop10
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Reply to willwingo:
Water glass- about 4 or 5 ounces.
If you don't mind getting the paint numbers I sure could use them.Thanks Mike Durkin
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Sun, Jan 16, 2011 8:18 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to hicrop10:
If you don't mind getting the paint numbers I sure could use them.Thanks Mike Durkin
I've had pretty good luck with Barsleak "AlumaSeal" (think that's the right name) for radiators. I reserve the "water glass" for head gasket, cracks and porosity problems.

I like the work you are doing....really looks good.
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Sun, Jan 16, 2011 8:26 AM
NIK O.
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I've had pretty good luck with Barsleak "AlumaSeal" (think that's the right name) for radiators. I reserve the "water glass" for head gasket, cracks and porosity problems.

I like the work you are doing....really looks good.
Get pkgs of pellets @ g.m. Dealers, size of quarter, u will need several? Cheap. Be blessed & be thankful, nik rd4
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Sun, Jan 16, 2011 8:34 AM
jrideman
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Reply to NIK O.:
Get pkgs of pellets @ g.m. Dealers, size of quarter, u will need several? Cheap. Be blessed & be thankful, nik rd4
Thanks for the feedback. Wish I had the time to finish the tractor now.

hicrop10 Ill get those numbers posted tommorow for you.

OM does the barsleak alumaseal work on the steel radiators?

Nick O what are the pellets you are talking about?
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Sun, Jan 16, 2011 9:04 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to jrideman:
Thanks for the feedback. Wish I had the time to finish the tractor now.

hicrop10 Ill get those numbers posted tommorow for you.

OM does the barsleak alumaseal work on the steel radiators?

Nick O what are the pellets you are talking about?
Works on all types of radiators.
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Sun, Jan 16, 2011 10:26 AM
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