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95512a1 pony no compression

95512a1 pony no compression

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rt18058
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I have an old 955 that has not run in about 8 years, I can spin the diesel with a socket on the pony and the clutch engaged so I would assume that I will be able to get the diesel to go once I get it cranking. My problem is that I have no compression on the pony. Should I pull the head? will that give me access to the valves?(I'm assuming that there are valves stuck open) are head gaskets still available for this motor? Is anything available for this motor? I would really hate to see this machine go to the scrap yard, any help woild be greatly appreciated. 955 12a1968 Thanks
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Wed, Apr 3, 2013 5:18 PM
gemdozer
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Yes you can removed the 2 poney heads but you need to draining the coolan before and you could see by turning the poney flywell if the valve are working and these head gaskets are valaible but you could reused them if they are not brook
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Wed, Apr 3, 2013 7:14 PM
rt18058
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Reply to gemdozer:
Yes you can removed the 2 poney heads but you need to draining the coolan before and you could see by turning the poney flywell if the valve are working and these head gaskets are valaible but you could reused them if they are not brook
thanks gemdozer-- I have another question, would I be better off trying to pull the intake manifold? I already have the carb and magneto off , there is not much more to remove.
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Wed, Apr 3, 2013 8:02 PM
gemdozer
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Reply to rt18058:
thanks gemdozer-- I have another question, would I be better off trying to pull the intake manifold? I already have the carb and magneto off , there is not much more to remove.
You better check the heads before and same time check the holes in head and block if the coolan circulalion is oké and if the valves are freese there you will have to pull the intake manifold for repair
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Thu, Apr 4, 2013 12:10 AM
rt18058
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Reply to gemdozer:
You better check the heads before and same time check the holes in head and block if the coolan circulalion is oké and if the valves are freese there you will have to pull the intake manifold for repair
I pulled the head on one side, found a stuck intake. I got the valve free with a little spray but the valve does not return on its own. there is most likely a bad spring or the keeper let go. Rather than climbing around in that hole, I think it would be easier to pull the motor out and bring it to the bench. Do you know if there is any special trick to pulling the motor or does or just unbolt and lift out? or would you suggest on pulling the intake first and go from there? The head gasket looks good and the bore looks clean, no holes in the block so I am sure it can be fixed. thanks again...Rick
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Thu, Apr 4, 2013 3:32 PM
gemdozer
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Reply to rt18058:
I pulled the head on one side, found a stuck intake. I got the valve free with a little spray but the valve does not return on its own. there is most likely a bad spring or the keeper let go. Rather than climbing around in that hole, I think it would be easier to pull the motor out and bring it to the bench. Do you know if there is any special trick to pulling the motor or does or just unbolt and lift out? or would you suggest on pulling the intake first and go from there? The head gasket looks good and the bore looks clean, no holes in the block so I am sure it can be fixed. thanks again...Rick
HI If you can just removed the intake manifold it should be better but some studs 3 3/16" longe and am't sure you room with the loader and if you remove the poney you should have 6 3/8 screws
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Thu, Apr 4, 2013 11:43 PM
ccjersey
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I agree with Hector, with a track loader, you may have to do things differently than someone with a plain tractor.

If you can take off just the manifold, you probably will be ahead to do only that. Pulling a pony frequently is a challenge (getting to all the fasteners around the base) even when you have good access to it. Can't see how you would run one off the tractor without fabricating a block off plate. So, in my book, just easier to work on it fastened to the clutch housing unless you have to go deeper into it than the valves.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Apr 5, 2013 1:07 AM
neil
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Reply to ccjersey:
I agree with Hector, with a track loader, you may have to do things differently than someone with a plain tractor.

If you can take off just the manifold, you probably will be ahead to do only that. Pulling a pony frequently is a challenge (getting to all the fasteners around the base) even when you have good access to it. Can't see how you would run one off the tractor without fabricating a block off plate. So, in my book, just easier to work on it fastened to the clutch housing unless you have to go deeper into it than the valves.
Agreeing with Hector and CC in that pulling the manifold is much easier than the entire engine. That said, if you do end up pulling the engine and want to run it off the tractor, it's easy enough to set it up. I have a test bed made out of little more than some 2x4s, a tin cap from Lowes cut in half and sealed (for the idler gear to run in oil) and a 2x4 mount for the fuel tank and a 5 gallon bucket for coolant. I have a youtube of it running http://youtu.be/4fkCQ-Lj9vM

Cheers,
Neil
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Fri, Apr 5, 2013 1:31 AM
rt18058
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Reply to neil:
Agreeing with Hector and CC in that pulling the manifold is much easier than the entire engine. That said, if you do end up pulling the engine and want to run it off the tractor, it's easy enough to set it up. I have a test bed made out of little more than some 2x4s, a tin cap from Lowes cut in half and sealed (for the idler gear to run in oil) and a 2x4 mount for the fuel tank and a 5 gallon bucket for coolant. I have a youtube of it running http://youtu.be/4fkCQ-Lj9vM

Cheers,
Neil
hey guys .. Thank you for the advice.I think that I will do what you suggest. I need to pull alot off of the intake to pull the motor anyway so I will just dig into it that way. I stopped at afriends shop today who repairs farm equipment for a living to see if he possibly had a service manual for this machine.... he just sent all of his construction equipment manuals to auction a few weeks ago. too late.. I found a manual online from the company with the "ring bound manuals" for about 100 dollars, I think I'll order that. hopefully it will give me the specs I need. I do have an old parts manual that had good part numbers about ten years ago, I can only assume they are still good. Now that the boys are getting older and I'm not running around to hockey games and cub scouts I finally have time to get to those projects that I have been putting off for far too long. I wont have time to do much untill sunday, ( gotta go pay the bills), but I will definetly keep you posted on my progress/findings. Once again I really must thank you guys for your input, it really helps to have someone to bounce ideas off of. on a final note...Neil, I liked your video, It should have been longer but it did wake my wife up from a sound sleep the third time i played it. Thanks again....Rick
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Fri, Apr 5, 2013 9:40 AM
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