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941 input shaft seal replacement

941 input shaft seal replacement

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wlf89
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what will i have to do to replace the input shaft seal on the torque converter? it has been seeping since i have owned it,i figure from it sitting up and drying out before i bought it,but now it is leaking pretty good.

will the engine or trans have to be removed? i dont figure im lucky enough that it can be changed by removing the flexible coupling and get to it that way?
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Sun, Sep 11, 2016 4:28 AM
Old Magnet
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Removing the flex coupling will give you access to change the front torque converter seal.
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Sun, Sep 11, 2016 6:07 AM
Glum
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Removing the flex coupling will give you access to change the front torque converter seal.
Can be replaced by removing the flexible coupling. Bit tight for working room. Be careful installing the new seal.
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Sun, Sep 11, 2016 11:50 AM
wlf89
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Reply to Glum:
Can be replaced by removing the flexible coupling. Bit tight for working room. Be careful installing the new seal.
does anyone know the part # for the seal? not seeing it in my parts book.
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Sun, Sep 11, 2016 7:05 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to wlf89:
does anyone know the part # for the seal? not seeing it in my parts book.
1D4326 in my 80H1-3039 parts book.
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Sun, Sep 11, 2016 11:32 PM
wlf89
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Reply to Old Magnet:
1D4326 in my 80H1-3039 parts book.
i got the seal out and the next question i have is the shaft has a decent amount of play in it up and down id say maybe 1/8". should i drop the trans and change the bearings or put a seal in it and hope it last me a while? i only use this dozer on the farm in free time its not like its a money maker for me.
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Tue, Sep 13, 2016 12:05 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to wlf89:
i got the seal out and the next question i have is the shaft has a decent amount of play in it up and down id say maybe 1/8". should i drop the trans and change the bearings or put a seal in it and hope it last me a while? i only use this dozer on the farm in free time its not like its a money maker for me.
A new seal with 1/8" + movement isn't going to last very long.
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Tue, Sep 13, 2016 12:47 AM
catsilver
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Reply to Old Magnet:
A new seal with 1/8" + movement isn't going to last very long.
If the shaft is going up an down that far, the oil seal wont last long nor will the converter seals, time for a re-bearing/ reseal job before a major failure. the transmission complete or converter on its own is best taken out underneath.
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Tue, Sep 13, 2016 1:00 AM
wlf89
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Reply to catsilver:
If the shaft is going up an down that far, the oil seal wont last long nor will the converter seals, time for a re-bearing/ reseal job before a major failure. the transmission complete or converter on its own is best taken out underneath.
thanks guys thats what i already knew was just hoping to hear yall say it might last a while lol

any tips on taking the trans/converter combo out? im thinking a chain wrapped around the rops roof and a chainhorse to lower it on the belly pan and then drag the pan out.

manual says there is 1 bolts in the rear and the support bracket bracket, doesnt mention nothing in the front and i dont remember seeing nothing while under there, is there nothing holding the front end up?
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Tue, Sep 13, 2016 3:46 AM
catsilver
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Reply to wlf89:
thanks guys thats what i already knew was just hoping to hear yall say it might last a while lol

any tips on taking the trans/converter combo out? im thinking a chain wrapped around the rops roof and a chainhorse to lower it on the belly pan and then drag the pan out.

manual says there is 1 bolts in the rear and the support bracket bracket, doesnt mention nothing in the front and i dont remember seeing nothing while under there, is there nothing holding the front end up?
You need to block the machine up high enough to get the transmission back underneath, apart from all the linkages etc, there is a ring of bolts holding the transmission to the back end casing, it comes out complete with transfer case and pinion. the whole flywheel coupling has to come out. I can't remember what supports there are each side of the transmission, the last one I removed was in 1975 over a ditch at the edge of a field using a 'Hiab' crane through a hedge and through the cab door, so a pull lift around the ROPS should work quite well.
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Tue, Sep 13, 2016 5:19 AM
Glum
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Reply to catsilver:
You need to block the machine up high enough to get the transmission back underneath, apart from all the linkages etc, there is a ring of bolts holding the transmission to the back end casing, it comes out complete with transfer case and pinion. the whole flywheel coupling has to come out. I can't remember what supports there are each side of the transmission, the last one I removed was in 1975 over a ditch at the edge of a field using a 'Hiab' crane through a hedge and through the cab door, so a pull lift around the ROPS should work quite well.
The converter should be able to be dropped without removing the transmission. It can on the D4 so I imagine the 941 won't be too different.
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Tue, Sep 13, 2016 10:30 AM
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