Reply to Old Magnet:
Not that easy....the various applications are made by changing nozzles (housings) and different diameter wheels and different shaped wheels (turbines). There is a pretty good chance there is some common hardware but there is no way of knowing exactly without the part numbers. Also the applications are usually packages, with matching governor requirements and rack settings.
I'm not saying a replacement has to be exact but it should at least be close to original.
Hi Team,
not the first time I came across a machine with a bolt and nut, with suitable sealing washers, fitted in place of the wheel and shaft thru the center housing of the turbo. This was often done in the field to get a machine loaded and to a place to work on it.
Some were also done permanently, as you are asking about, usually because it was not worth the dollars to fit a replacement turbo and re-work the lines to suit an older machine that did not really need full power to do its job. The rear end of the G struggles with the extra power, so, you would be doing it a favour to go back to the lower power rating of the previous Naturally Aspirated F machine.
You can do the above by blocking off the turbo shaft bore and just refit the turbo as is, oil lines and all.
Or better still remove the turbo and oil lines(simply blank the oil supply fitting and the oil return line at the cylinder block) Then make up an exhaust pipe thru the hood and air line from the aircleaner to the inlet manifold.
The rack setting would need to be reduced, to cut back on black smoke. I guess a starting point of about 0.000" or -0.005" and see what the smoke and power are like and cut back further if/as needed. Standard rack setting from my temporary (same as OM's post above) rack chart for this machine is +0.015".
All this info is a guide and your milage may vary, the usual Disclaimers Apply.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.