933F 42A Hydraulic Hoses Help

I would start by taking some of the flange connections loose if they seem to be leaking and replace the o-ring that is sandwiched between the hose end and the block it connects to. The steel fittings and hose ends themselves seldom leak unless there is a crack or something has been chafing and rubbed a hole.

You seem to have a mix of hose fitting types on the machine with a CAT press-fit sleeve type on the left and an older 2 bolt clamp style in the oily spot in the center. You can buy hose in bulk, but unless you want to get setup to make hoses for a whole machinery line, I expect your best bet is to just remove the hose(s) taking pictures etc so you can easily reinstall each one, and take them to an autoparts or machinery dealer that makes hoses.

You may find that some will not want to sell the hose without ends crimped on even when you have the clamps etc to install it on the ends that were left bolted to the machine. If this is a problem, I would just buy a hose about a foot too long with the cheapest ends they sell crimped on and take it home and saw the ends off, cutting the hose to the exact required length in the process. A friction cut chopsaw is best, but a hacksaw works just fine for cutting hydraulic hose.

The shop you go to can read the SAE spec off the hose to match it up.

It is best to clean around the connections before beginning disassemble. Even if it is only some diesel scrubbed in with a wire brush and blown off with compressed air, you will be much happier working on it and be much less likely to get debris into the system. Once you have lines off, you are really limited in what you can do to clean things up. I usually use shop towels to carefully wipe any remaining dirt away from open ports before starting reassembly.

Link to online source for hose, ends and assemblies
https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwk_TbBRDsARIsAALJSOaAuaU7rmYdp5nbtpIaTFbMZNTmFTGTtw0pbzYaaXVbydcqSFkyG4EaAp4REALw_wcB

In my hands, brazing the steel line is usually a lot easier and surer method. That tubing may be quite a bit thicker than some of the stuff I deal with, so welding may be possible.

The brass will vaporize if you try to cut steel through it with an oxyacetylene torch so I wonder if it would do the same when the arc hit it. Never tried welding over any.

I thought that brass color might just be a place with paint still stuck on it.

In either case, I fix a lot of steel tubing with common flux coated bronze rods. If I need to be really careful I will sometimes use silver brazing but generally the common bronze works well and is lots cheaper.

[quote="ccjersey"]The brass will vaporize if you try to cut steel through it with an oxyacetylene torch so I wonder if it would do the same when the arc hit it. Never tried welding over any.

I thought that brass color might just be a place with paint still stuck on it.

In either case, I fix a lot of steel tubing with common flux coated bronze rods. If I need to be really careful I will sometimes use silver brazing but generally the common bronze works well and is lots cheaper.[/quote]

Silicon bronze and some powder flux works well to.

I would also consider maybe cutting it out and grinding it down and tig weld it up if it keeps leaking.

Sorry , can't see what you have there, but its bound to be something standard that you can replace if not repair.