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931 operation

931 operation

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AlanSmock-archive
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My question may be a little out of place for this forum, but here goes. I purchased a 931 cat with a 4 in 1 bucket that I will be using on our farm to do some erosion control work. I’ll be using the machine to remove some small trees, moving dirt and doing some grading. I’m very sure the machine is capable of doing what I need to do, but I’m not a very experienced operator, especially with this machine. Is anyone aware of training materials; manuals, videos, etc. that will provide some tips; things to do and look out for?

Thanks
54D2
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Sat, Dec 27, 2008 9:41 PM
SJ
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Your not at all out of place here as it,s an all Cat site so jump in anytime. I don,t have any info. that you need or where to get it but someone on here I,m sure can direct you where to get info. or give you their own warnings and advice.
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Sat, Dec 27, 2008 11:20 PM
7upuller
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Reply to SJ:
Your not at all out of place here as it,s an all Cat site so jump in anytime. I don,t have any info. that you need or where to get it but someone on here I,m sure can direct you where to get info. or give you their own warnings and advice.
54D2,

I need a little more specific question so I can answer some for you. A lot of people always dump the bucket the wrong way on crawler loaders. On a rubber tired loader you dump the bucket by pushing the lever forward. On a crawler, you pull the lever back to dump. On a crawler loader, to cut down the grade, I pull back on the raise, and tilt bucket forward levers at the same time. This changes the cutting angle of the bucket while leaving the tracks in contact with the ground as much as posible. To cut less, simply push forward on the same two levers. That's why Cat made crawler lever backwards(to some people)so both levers are in sequence.

To properly operate a 4:1 to clam a pile of dirt up with out leaving crumps, do the following. Open bucket jaws and roll bucket all the way forward. crawl forward until front edge of bucket is passed the pile or object. Put front cutting edge on ground with bucket tipped all the way forward still. Now most important part, put the bucket lever in float position. Now roll the bucket back and close the clam at the same time. It works great.-glen
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Sun, Dec 28, 2008 7:29 AM
11A933
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Reply to 7upuller:
54D2,

I need a little more specific question so I can answer some for you. A lot of people always dump the bucket the wrong way on crawler loaders. On a rubber tired loader you dump the bucket by pushing the lever forward. On a crawler, you pull the lever back to dump. On a crawler loader, to cut down the grade, I pull back on the raise, and tilt bucket forward levers at the same time. This changes the cutting angle of the bucket while leaving the tracks in contact with the ground as much as posible. To cut less, simply push forward on the same two levers. That's why Cat made crawler lever backwards(to some people)so both levers are in sequence.

To properly operate a 4:1 to clam a pile of dirt up with out leaving crumps, do the following. Open bucket jaws and roll bucket all the way forward. crawl forward until front edge of bucket is passed the pile or object. Put front cutting edge on ground with bucket tipped all the way forward still. Now most important part, put the bucket lever in float position. Now roll the bucket back and close the clam at the same time. It works great.-glen
Patience and practice is about the only way to learn how to handle the machine,as soon as you get the feel of it you will surprise yourself with the work you will be able to do,experiment and use whatever method suits you best,good luck with your investment.
Andy
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Sun, Dec 28, 2008 7:44 AM
OzDozer
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Reply to 11A933:
Patience and practice is about the only way to learn how to handle the machine,as soon as you get the feel of it you will surprise yourself with the work you will be able to do,experiment and use whatever method suits you best,good luck with your investment.
Andy
54D2 - Your question is most definitely NOT out of place, and it is good to see that you are asking for operating advice, prior to just rushing out and killing yourself, as it is so easy to do if you have little to no operator training or experience.

There is one cardinal rule to operation of machines. Never attempt to adjust, repair, or otherwise work on a machine that is in motion. Fully 50% of injuries can be traced back to ignoring this basic rule.

The second cardinal rule is to be aware. Be aware of people moving into your work zone. Be aware of children, and ensure they are restrained and not able to enter your work zone. Be aware of the end result of any moves you make.
A classic error with loaders is lifting bulky objects such as tree trunks in the bucket, high above the machine and operator .. and then having the object fall over the back of the bucket, slide down the loader arms, and crush the operator. A simple result of the effect of gravity, plus a lack of awareness .. and it often results in injury or death.

Be aware of any obstructions or holes, or other dangers in your work area. Stumps, rocks, holes, hidden cavities, will often result in tractor instability or rollover, with resultant injury/damage. ALWAYS check for the location of buried services, prior to digging into the ground. Hitting high pressure gas lines that the operator is unaware of, will nearly always result in serious injury or death.

Walk around checks, prior to starting, and whilst operating, are an important part of operating. Walk around checks involve careful searching for leaks, damage, loose fasteners, cracks, unusual wear patterns, and anything out of place.
Practise being a safe operator, it is in your interest. Always lower raised equipment, and set the brake, prior to leaving the seat .. even for a short time.

I would recommend the following CD as a useful item to improve your skills and make you a more aware operator. It is a military operator training CD, and it is very comprehensive, and only costs $9.95. The military are excellent at providing comprehensive training, and I don't think you'll find this CD is wasted money. Good luck and take care.

Heavy Equipment training CD .. http://a2zcds.com/Educational-CDs/Heavy-Equipment-Operator-And-Safety-Training-CD/
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Sun, Dec 28, 2008 8:06 AM
Gavin84w
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Reply to OzDozer:
54D2 - Your question is most definitely NOT out of place, and it is good to see that you are asking for operating advice, prior to just rushing out and killing yourself, as it is so easy to do if you have little to no operator training or experience.

There is one cardinal rule to operation of machines. Never attempt to adjust, repair, or otherwise work on a machine that is in motion. Fully 50% of injuries can be traced back to ignoring this basic rule.

The second cardinal rule is to be aware. Be aware of people moving into your work zone. Be aware of children, and ensure they are restrained and not able to enter your work zone. Be aware of the end result of any moves you make.
A classic error with loaders is lifting bulky objects such as tree trunks in the bucket, high above the machine and operator .. and then having the object fall over the back of the bucket, slide down the loader arms, and crush the operator. A simple result of the effect of gravity, plus a lack of awareness .. and it often results in injury or death.

Be aware of any obstructions or holes, or other dangers in your work area. Stumps, rocks, holes, hidden cavities, will often result in tractor instability or rollover, with resultant injury/damage. ALWAYS check for the location of buried services, prior to digging into the ground. Hitting high pressure gas lines that the operator is unaware of, will nearly always result in serious injury or death.

Walk around checks, prior to starting, and whilst operating, are an important part of operating. Walk around checks involve careful searching for leaks, damage, loose fasteners, cracks, unusual wear patterns, and anything out of place.
Practise being a safe operator, it is in your interest. Always lower raised equipment, and set the brake, prior to leaving the seat .. even for a short time.

I would recommend the following CD as a useful item to improve your skills and make you a more aware operator. It is a military operator training CD, and it is very comprehensive, and only costs $9.95. The military are excellent at providing comprehensive training, and I don't think you'll find this CD is wasted money. Good luck and take care.

Heavy Equipment training CD .. http://a2zcds.com/Educational-CDs/Heavy-Equipment-Operator-And-Safety-Training-CD/
Try this Cat site, lots of very good info

http://safety.cat.com/cda/layout?m=154441&x=7
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Sun, Dec 28, 2008 9:07 AM
ol Grump
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Reply to Gavin84w:
Try this Cat site, lots of very good info

http://safety.cat.com/cda/layout?m=154441&x=7
All of the above advice is excellent. When you're starting to learn, go SLOW!! Many times you'll feel like a one armed paper hanger in a windstorm. .only two arms and feet for all the pedals and levers. With practice and patience all this will turn into reflex and that's the time for some REAL caution! You'll try to go faster and faster. .and that's when the accidents happen.

An old boy told me "think the job through and decide how you want to end it before you even begin. Then work to that end. Anyone can jump in and start but it takes a good operator to finish the job".
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Sun, Dec 28, 2008 12:05 PM
AlanSmock-archive
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Reply to ol Grump:
All of the above advice is excellent. When you're starting to learn, go SLOW!! Many times you'll feel like a one armed paper hanger in a windstorm. .only two arms and feet for all the pedals and levers. With practice and patience all this will turn into reflex and that's the time for some REAL caution! You'll try to go faster and faster. .and that's when the accidents happen.

An old boy told me "think the job through and decide how you want to end it before you even begin. Then work to that end. Anyone can jump in and start but it takes a good operator to finish the job".
Thanks for the feedback and comments. I'll check out the suggested web sites, and I'll definately start out slowly.

54D2
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Mon, Dec 29, 2008 7:52 AM
Patagoniakid
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Reply to AlanSmock-archive:
Thanks for the feedback and comments. I'll check out the suggested web sites, and I'll definately start out slowly.

54D2
I purchased a 931b and wanted to know something really basic... do you leave the throttle set in position (fairly high) when making gear changes? Or throttle back to make a gear change like a truck? Don't want to ruin the torque converter or is it designed to take instant gear changes with relative high power settings? I don't want to shorten the life of anything. I did buy all the work shop manuals and didn't see this basic hint on operation.
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Sat, Jul 17, 2010 12:04 AM
AlanSmock-archive
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Reply to Patagoniakid:
I purchased a 931b and wanted to know something really basic... do you leave the throttle set in position (fairly high) when making gear changes? Or throttle back to make a gear change like a truck? Don't want to ruin the torque converter or is it designed to take instant gear changes with relative high power settings? I don't want to shorten the life of anything. I did buy all the work shop manuals and didn't see this basic hint on operation.
Patagoniakid,
It's my understanding that the transmission on the 931 can be shifted to any gear; forward or back, regardless of throttle without damaging the transmission. From an operator's point of view it is much more comfortable to throttle down before changing directions.
I think you'll get the hang of operating the machine fairly quickly.
54D2
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Sat, Jul 17, 2010 1:03 AM
Patagoniakid
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Reply to AlanSmock-archive:
Patagoniakid,
It's my understanding that the transmission on the 931 can be shifted to any gear; forward or back, regardless of throttle without damaging the transmission. From an operator's point of view it is much more comfortable to throttle down before changing directions.
I think you'll get the hang of operating the machine fairly quickly.
54D2
Thanks for the reply. I'll continue to throttle down. Didn't know which would be worse.. engine wear from changing throttle positions or transmission wear from being hit hard when changing direction rapidly. My use is for my own use (not commercial) to whip an abandoned farm bought into shape with irrigation canals, roads, tree removal. My 931b has a backhoe which looks very strong. This forum is great! I am sure I'll be back here since my machine is fairly worn out! Vintage 1977 Japanese made. Now I need to figure out how to home brew a ripper attachment for it and cab without the special support brackets I can't get for a reasonable price. Thanks again...
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Sat, Jul 17, 2010 1:43 AM
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