922b wheel loader

I just bought this 922b and its been sitting a while. I changed the fuel filter but I saw some of you mention cleaning the fuel tower? I have no books or info and don't know the process for bleeding the air out of the system after it has been opened up. I don't want to throw batterys on it and start cranking, I want to make sure It has good clean fuel and the air is bled out before I even try it.I hooke up a temporary tank to try it with so I know the fuel will be clean and I will clean the tank on the machine after Its running.I will know more about the condition at that time. thanks for any info you might be able to help me with.

Pete, his will be different in many ways.
Notably the tank is below the fuel lift pump so it must draw fuel up and the system must be airtight to keep it primed.
There is a wire screen primary filter in the line below the lift pump just in front of the radiator on left side of machine. This has a large bolt on top that you unscrew and the bowl and screen filter drops off and you can clean it out.

I assume it is direct electric start, so it will have a hand primer pump on the filter housing. Bleed screw wheel is cheap stamped steel but it is in the filter canister top as expected. Procedure is to open bleed valve and pump until you get clear fuel with no bubbles out the bleed drain tube that runs down the left rear corner of the engine just behind the timing gear case/"front" plate. Sure speeds up things to fill the housing with clean fuel before dropping filter in and putting on lid. Continue pumping and fuel pressure should register on the gauge in dash or mounted directly on front top of filter housing in my case. The fuel pressure relief valve is bolted to the side of the filter housing and a line from this valve returns to the tank.

Filter canister is designed so fuel exits top of lift pump, travels up a passageway on the rear of the filter housing through a ball check valve and then dumps into the canister around the filter. The check valve keeps fuel from recirculating around the priming pump and helps maintain the "prime" Fuel flows from outside to the center of the single cartridge filter and up through the top cover (bleed screw taps in here) and then forward to another passage running down the front of the housing (fuel pressure gauge port is there) and down to the base where it enters the fuel pump housing fuel gallery through a short spool with a large o-ring on each end. I believe there is also a hex head drain plug in the base of the filter canister for cleaning purposes, but cannot say exactly where it is located other than it is oriented so it is accessible to remove.

The fuel pump has no provision to bleed anything, so the nut on each injector line is loosened either at the top of the pump or at the injector for bleeding. I believe the fuel tank is vented or maybe mine just leaks, so pressurizing the tank to push fuel up to the lift pump etc can require a constant flow of compressed air. I rigged up a regulator i had around and connected it into the fuel return line I disconnected from the pressure relief valve. That maintains the desired pressure on the system in spite of leaks around fuel filler cap etc,, but you must temporarily plug the flow that will come out the bypass/pressure relief valve on the side of the filter housing.

When you get rid of all air from filter bleed and then from each injector line, tighten everything back down and reconnect the return line if you had it apart and prepare for a start. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU TAKE THE PRECLEANER OFF THE TOP OF THE AIR FILTER HOUSING AND HAVE A SUITABLE BOARD, BOOK ETC HANDY TO SMOTHER THE ENGINE IF IT RUNS AWAY. I recently started my 922 after a long period of sitting in the weeds and it promptly started to overspeed. Anyway, push down on the accelerator pedal to give it fuel for starting/pull up on it to stop engine. Turn on battery disconnect switch in the little door in the engine cowling near air filter. Mine has a switch that you turn to the left to operate the glow plugs and then to right to crank the engine. Cycle glowplugs for 30 seconds to ?? depending on temp and then immediately crank. As oil pressure builds up a rack stop will move and allow more fuel than the slow idle amount available without pressing the pedal down. Engine may not attempt to start until the rack stop releases and fuel rate can be increased. We have a 944 that requires ether for the first start from cold. If the rack limiter releases it might not need the starting aid, but a good spray in the air filter precleaner gets it going before the batteries go down.

Thank you for the detailed information< It Is going to help quite a bit. The filter I did replace is the one one the frame rail near the radiator, I havent been in the fuel tower yet but I now have an idea of what I need to do. Ill let you know when I get him to wake up.Thanks again. I found out it is a 94 series.

Check voltage. My 9w2A is 24V.

my 922b B is 24V as well. a easy way is to just look at your alternator or see how meany batter cables you got. on a side note when i got my loader the P.O. was just running on 12V it started but was slow soon figure out she was 24V and now is a lot happier. good luck p.s we all love pics

Mine was the same and not charging. Found out the previous owner had put a 12 volt regulator on to the 24 volt alternator. Charges correct now.

The loader started fairly easily, I changed both filters, cleaned the fuel tower out. I put a electric fuel pump in line plugged the return and pressurized the system cracking open the line on each injector until I saw clean fuel coming. I then disconnected the in line pump and connected the temp. tank back to the filter. It cranked pretty quickly but is only running at one speed. The speed control has no effect and would not shut it down so I had to smother it. I also had a fuel leak around what looks like a plexiglass window on the transfer pump. If any one has any insight I would appreciate it and the earlier info. was definitely very helpful. Thanks again. Not mobile but getting closer. The instrumentation did seem to work good oil pressure, generator is charging. This is a 94 series machine and I like that the plate says Made In The United States Of America.

What is the speed it runs at? If a slow idle, it's possible the rack stop is not releasing as oil pressure builds up.

However that does not explain why you could not shut it down with the throttle. You did snatch up on the accelerator pretty smartly?

If you want to see if the rack is freely movable, there is a small two bolt cover over the end of the rack toward the radiator. Look under the accessory drive shaft housing where the injection pump housing bolts to it. Remove this cover and you can stick a screwdriver etc in there and push the rack. The limit plunger is supposed to prevent it moving much though. You would need to use a regulated air source to pressurize the fitting on the governor to make sure the stop plunger is releasing. Or at least I think that external oil line connects to the plunger. Someone will know for sure.

I cannot think of a window on the transfer pump. Not looking at an hour meter are you? The transfer pump has packings to seal the shafts. The main drive shaft always has two between the drive gear and the pump. Pumps with a tach drive feature have another one on the outer end of the shaft that extends through the cover to stop fuel leaking into the tachometer drive/hour meter. There is a telltale drain line on the main shaft to drain away any fuel leakage to the outside instead of it finding its way into the oil pan. It connects to a cavity between the two packings behind the gear on the main shaft.