922 wheel loader hydraulic hose specs

Cut the old hose and check the wire wrap....unless you suspect it had the wrong hose installed.

OM......I guess it is that simple isn't it. Will do that this weekend and get hose ordered next week.

I was looking over the cost of the fittings and found to my horror that the type 61 flange 90° els are 4 times the cost of a simple straight JIC female. Several of the hoses on this machine are connected to the fixed ports by flange to JIC male flare adapters thereby saving about $40 per hose! I will have to scour my parts machine out back to see if there are more on it

MOG.......no i didn't take any. As brake jobs go it was quite a bit more involved than a F600/F700/C60 etc. Pretty typical hydraulic brake setup with manual adjusters only. The rub is you have a planetary to remove to get to the bearing retainer nut to get the drum off. I crossed the seal over to a CR number and actually have a couple extra of the NOS wheel seals if you can't find any. Hope I don't ever need them!

Wheel/hub seal is CR47441, Axle seals that go inside the housings are NAPA/SKF 19887 though they are a single lip design so CAT might be a better option IF they still have a source for the original seals. I recently ordered some grease seals for a water pump shaft from the local dealership and the ones they sent in a cat package were single lip vs the double lip type with a CAT part number that came out of it. So ordering from CAT is no guarantee you will get the old original style seals. Finally the wheel cylinders are 1.5" diameter and kits for them are NAPA #44/18704. I didn't need wheel cylinders but they might be able to get them. I had to drive the pistons and cups out of a couple of mine so I didn't want to count on those rubber cups even though they looked OK.

A small shop crane/cherry picker is a great tool for the task. The outer plate and the planetary carrier and even the outer gear is not too heavy to handle but the main hub and brake drum is heavy and you need to be careful of the seal. We just hung it by one of the wheel studs with a short bracket bent about 45° to offset the lift so it hung pretty straight on the hoist. A DULL cold chisel and a hammer will remove the retaining nut quite adequately. The previous owners of my machine had mangled the nut with a sharp chisel. In fact they apparently had no wrench larger than about 3/4". Every gearbox plug and all the bearing retainer nuts on the machine had been attacked with a sharp cold chisel!

We got this loader without an engine in it after they had attempted a Perkins transplant that didn't work out somehow. Luckily we found the D320 we needed locally though it had been flooded and required a complete overhaul. This engine hasn't got 20 hours on it since the overhaul, but its been sitting out in the weather for about 10 years after the steering gear broke. It turned over with a bar with good compression, but ran away as soon as I got fuel up to the injectors. Got all that squared away and the steering gear fixed last year and over the winter and finally got back to it recently to get the seals and brakes done. Starter decided to pack it in somewhere along the line, but was lucky that only required some used brushes. Now I am dealing with hydraulic hoses, steering boost problems and brake master cylinder problems. One day it will run and be a useful thing to have around!

The chrome rods are amazing
I never knew there was any difference in the chrome but I have these old loaders that are 50 years old and the exposed rods are perfect
I will report back what I find

Pulled out service manual and it does have a spec for the hydraulics. System relief is set to 1800-1825 psi and the bucket tilt circuit relief is something like 2250. Interestingly steering boost operates at 700 or so and is supplied by a separate pump. It is on the end of the stack that starts with the transmission pump, then the main hydraulic pump cartridge and finally the steering boost.

So it looks like 2 wire SAE100R2AT with 3150 psi working pressure is going to be adequate and I probably will spring for one of the premium specs that offer increased flexibility like SAE100R16 or 100R17. Anyone know what the important difference between those two is?