5J D2 Starter Pinion Removal

http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?19519-cat-d2-pinion-gear-removal-help

Check out the thread pasted above, there are pictures of another 5J with the same question you're asking. Check the pics of the machine there to see if it looks like yours. Read the whole thread, lots of info in there. If it doesn't answer all of your questions then check back here and we'll try to sort them out.

I have a 3J engine sitting in my garage. It's the same as yours. I've fitted and removed the pinion a few times in the last couple of weeks and did not need to touch the governor, however the pinion does need to be latched in order to remove it, and you have to finesse the assembly out past the ring gear. In order to remove the pinion assembly, you need to lift the pony a couple of inches. This means you need to completely remove it to replace the gasket sitting under the pony. Fit a new gasket greased and next time you won't need to replace the gasket as it'll slide right off.
I'm surprised that there's no 2" diameter inspection plate as I definitely have one on my bell housing.
In any case, by removing the pinion assembly, you can give it a really good going over and get it back to tip-top condition and then almost never have to worry about it again. It's already lasted 70 years....

Sasquatch: What I found after I removed the left floor board was (what once was) a two inch round hole in what would usually be called the bellhousing. There was no cover, and some hemorrhoid has used a cutting torch to cut out the portion of the hole that was forward, so now I have an oblong "slot" that goes clear to the engine flange. Is that the inspection hole you were referring to?

When I used my "Atomic" type light (that I got off Amazon for less than $9.00) I could see clear to the bottom of the housing and spotted various flotsam and jetsam of parts. So Far I have fished out a broken spring that was once 5" long by 7/16 diameter, and a pressed steel washer/cup that is 1 3/4" in diameter. I'll try to include a picture if I
can figure out how to attach.

The pictures were excellent and thanks for the info. That sure looks like mine.

Try as I might, I can't get the pictures to load. I was hoping you guys might be able to identify the parts, especially if they look like they are part of the pinion. The parts book just shows the end of some springs but no clue as to their size, and I can't identify the pressed washer/cup. that is why I was hoping to post a picture.[attachment=37855]D2 Pinion 002.jpg[/attachment][attachment=37856]D2 Pinion 001.jpg[/attachment]

Well the pieces you pulled out look to me like the spring from the transmission shifter interlock linkage and the oil catch cup that once was attached (spot welded) to the main clutch over-center mechanism. That oil cup helped to feed the oil to your clutch throwout yoke that drips from the small oil cup located on the top of the transmission just ahead of the shifter. The shift interlock mechanism prevents the transmission gears from being engaged or disengaged any time the main clutch is snapped in. Doubtful that either of the pieces pictured were from the pinion. Try removing that square cover on top of the transmission just ahead of the shifter to open things up a bit. That is how you normally adjust the main clutch anyway and it will make it easier to see what may be apart in there.

The location of that bell housing hole sounds like the general area that the inspection cover should be in, but I don't have a 5J parts book that goes back that early to verify if your machine would've originally had one or not.

Thanks for the info! I will open up that cover over the throwout bearing and see what it looks like. Who knows how long that cover (and now torched slot) has been open to the dirt and weather. I can see a lot of crud. I would have never been able to identify those parts.

I was able to get it started tonight with lots of ether and carefully holding the pinion in. It just doesn't seem to be getting enough fuel. It would only run with the throttle almost wide open and the RPMs sounded like no where near what I would expect with that much throttle. When I dropped the throttle below about half on the quadrant, it slowed to where it quit. I had the injectors tested, and they were all OK. The fuel pressure is in the green. Next I'll check to see if the rack is pulling all the way open. It was stuck when I got it, and the throttle was only pulling on the spring. I thought due to good old Kroil (absolutely wondrous stuff!) that I had that problem cured.

This tractor has been badly mistreated. A previous owner didn't have an injector nut wrench, so he just took a blunt cold chisel and deeply nicked the nuts to turn them. Same for the nut on the pony crank. After I get it running right, I still have the problem that someone twisted off the right brake adjusting bolt. It was suggested that perhaps I could back off the locator bolts under the bands, and rotate the whole assembly enough that I could replace that broken bolt through the brake pedal opening. Isn't one end of the band anchored right to the frame? Or is it only anchored to the pedal assembly?

I have had in the past an old SeaBee RD-7 cable dozer, a 2U D-8 with a BeeGee rear pump, an RD4, an orchard 20, two 30's, a 22 and a late model D-2 Dozer, but none of them were in bad shape, and certainly not abused like this poor old gal.

I sure appreciate the help!

Ralph Erb
ERB FARMS
Emmett, Idaho

It's great that you're bringing this mistreated D2 back to life Ralph. The round cover was missing off mine too, and the mice made hay in there. I pulled the main engine (it's sitting in my garage) and cleaned the whole clutch compartment out. You can really get things fixed up properly with it apart like that. They're quite easy to split should you be so inclined. Good news is most parts are still available either from Cat or off machinerytrader etc.