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320 excavator final drive seals

320 excavator final drive seals

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Larry
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Any one had any luck replacing the outer final drive duo cone seal on this machine when it is on the machine in a vertical position? This machine had the final drive replaced this past summer and due to negligence on the operator (not cleaning the mud out in freezing weather), it broke all the 16 bolts and the four dowels off due to track expansion from mud. When we had the thing last summer, I had it in a horizontal position and everything went together right, no leaks. Now I see that the metal part of the duo cone seal has dropped about 1/8 th of an inch so that we might have trouble installing it in a vertical position. It is a lot of work to remove the entire final drive from the main frame. The metal part of the duo cone seal will not come off over the bearing. The inside part of the outer duo cone seal and rubber seal is still intact in the housing. The bearing is an interference fit on the hub. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance, Larry.
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Sat, Mar 2, 2013 4:25 AM
bob
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Larry in "Havenot" Ontario, do you have a shop with something to lift with. What I do is drive the machine into the place I want to work, mark the place I want the master pin to be and then drive out, spin the track to position the pin and drive back in. Split the track, lift the machine and put a block of wood laying between the rails and a roller. This will keep the sprocket teeth out of the tracks. Drain the finaldrive and start taking apart. You should be able to get it apart, the hub bearings I have done all slid off the spigot. If the seal seat is not chewed up cahnge the seals and assem useing the same bearings and shims.
Later Bob
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Sat, Mar 2, 2013 6:55 AM
Larry
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Reply to bob:
Larry in "Havenot" Ontario, do you have a shop with something to lift with. What I do is drive the machine into the place I want to work, mark the place I want the master pin to be and then drive out, spin the track to position the pin and drive back in. Split the track, lift the machine and put a block of wood laying between the rails and a roller. This will keep the sprocket teeth out of the tracks. Drain the finaldrive and start taking apart. You should be able to get it apart, the hub bearings I have done all slid off the spigot. If the seal seat is not chewed up cahnge the seals and assem useing the same bearings and shims.
Later Bob
Bob, We already have the track broke, sprocket removed and items all washed up. However; the outboard bearing is pressed on the hub and it does not want to move.I do not want to destroy the bearing as is several hundred dollars. When I had it apart last summer, I had the whole assembly out of the frame and had it sitting with the sprocket up, ie. horizontal. The whole assembly was then put together, the outer duo cone seals installed first and then the bearing. Everything went very well on assembly, with us heating the bearing slightly, using an "H' bar, spacers, and a 7/8" threaded rod through the hub centre to pull everything together. Entire assembly was then installed in the track frame, filled planetaries with oil as well as the hydraulic drive system. Machine has functioned well for about 6-8 months until the owner didn't get the mud out of the tracks in the cold weather. Frost done the rest. I would like to re-assemble the outer drive assembly without having to remove the entire unit. However; I am concerned with getting the seal to stay in place without damaging it. They may have changed the design as I believe this may have been an earlier machine- don't have the s/n handy. As it is now, you can't get a puller to pull the bearing off as you can't get behind it. I was wondering if anyone had similar experiences. Cheers, Larry,
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Sat, Mar 2, 2013 9:42 AM
bob
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Reply to Larry:
Bob, We already have the track broke, sprocket removed and items all washed up. However; the outboard bearing is pressed on the hub and it does not want to move.I do not want to destroy the bearing as is several hundred dollars. When I had it apart last summer, I had the whole assembly out of the frame and had it sitting with the sprocket up, ie. horizontal. The whole assembly was then put together, the outer duo cone seals installed first and then the bearing. Everything went very well on assembly, with us heating the bearing slightly, using an "H' bar, spacers, and a 7/8" threaded rod through the hub centre to pull everything together. Entire assembly was then installed in the track frame, filled planetaries with oil as well as the hydraulic drive system. Machine has functioned well for about 6-8 months until the owner didn't get the mud out of the tracks in the cold weather. Frost done the rest. I would like to re-assemble the outer drive assembly without having to remove the entire unit. However; I am concerned with getting the seal to stay in place without damaging it. They may have changed the design as I believe this may have been an earlier machine- don't have the s/n handy. As it is now, you can't get a puller to pull the bearing off as you can't get behind it. I was wondering if anyone had similar experiences. Cheers, Larry,
Larry, there should be some threaded holes in the sprocket to use an H bar and if you have something to support the sprocket I would press it off as is. Need some help to grab parts as they come apart. Unless the seal seat is ruined as I doubt it is the seal should hold in place. Even if you have a seal installer make sure the rubber ring isn't twisted or it may kick the seal out of place as you assemble things. You must have tapered roller not ball bearing. Ball bearings slide on and off nicely. If dirt got in wash the area around the drive motor good. That thin area is always packed with dirt.
Later Bob
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Sat, Mar 2, 2013 9:56 PM
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