22 steer clutch and brake drum installation procedure

One of those guys on the West Coast would tell you to heat it up till spit sizzles on it, then drive it on with the 3/4 Impact. I believe one of the guys from the Midwest would tell you to do it as you described but use a bigger hammer. Those were on there with approximately 8 tons so it needs to be tight. 👋

Dave: If you tighten it only using the nut, the press you get is uncertain. The best process to install clutch pack and brake drum on their tapered shafts is to use the hydraulic service tool and use the pressure gauge to set the press load, then snug up the nut. For D2's the press is 15 Tons. I don't have the specs for the 22; component sizes are similar for D2 and 22. Jeff stated it was 8 Tons for the 22, maybe he's right, but it seems a little low.

Both D2 and 22 as well as 15 spec 15 tons, but the voice of experience here on the board is to reduce that to 8-10 tons dry press fit to avoid breaking the hubs.

Kent ,, 22 steer clutches are similar , but just a smidge smaller in diameter ( spring compressor tool i made was smaller that the D2 tool i borrowed from bob stewart). Short of having the hyd service tool, how do i approximate 8-10 ton? Jeff.. kinda like the "use a bigger hammer" advice!!!! that still is kind of imprecise though.. i read on here somewhere else that a 14 lb sledge whacked hard develops 100tons. so if i use a 2lb hammer and hit hard that gets me what... gotta go

i'm back, just ran into an old USAF buddy i had not seen in 25 years (we set up a meeting) As i stated i have no hydraulic press or guage that i can use or know who has one ( then again maybe i do, .... kent???) U guys Think if i was to hit it a bit harder with a say 4 lb hammer i would be close enough?? I am in Indianapolis today enroute to Dayton, and got some Cat parts to their correct/ needful owners in the process of driving this morning... (gotta do that with gas pushing $4.) Would a tork spec on the nut mean anything, and if so would that be a lubricated taper shaft or just dry???? lots of questions and uncertainty, maybe best to hope that i can borrow the right tool to do it right.... I just got a fairly decent set of 22 wide single key sprockets this am, seal plate needs attention though, but that will be another post and another days project... thanks guys, Dave

I assemble the tapered fit dry but with careful cleaning of mating parts (and no burrs or dings or rust spots). Then press on with hydraulic cylinder with hollow ram using "home made" adapters. I use a hand pump and watch pressure gauge to avoid overload. Then tighten the nut or bolt snug to hold it - no need to apply additional torque. I have had no problems on D2's at 15 Ton.

ok,did you make something up to pull on the threads, or did you bridge the area and pull off the outer bolt holes or outer flange of the trans case or final housings to the drum/clutch. ?? Then you would load up the bearings if done that way.. We has something with a hollow ram in the Air Force that stretched a shaft while you pulled on the end threads, to a certain value, then you could run the nut down and you were done. not sure if there are enough threads on the Cat setup to do that. Do not have a ram with a hole in it , my dad had one, but he sold it cause he didnt need it anymore.. will have to call you on this sometime, to clear it up exactly.

I have the finals almost ready to mate up , so the nuts are still accessible on both drum and clutch packs, so i could redo things yet. still wondering if there is an easier way, sans hydrulics, that would work, ( heat , tork value, etc.) Jim Z. said "tight with a 1/2 inch impact then hit it only once with a hammer," again these are imprecise methods, and i am sure he has done enough of them to probably know,,,, me.... i dont quite have "the feeling " of whats good enough,, at least not yet... Dave

My 2 cents on this subject and I am sure there will be those who will want to hang me for speaking my piece. Are we building show machines and play toys or construction/farming machines which are better than what came out of the factory?
Lets consider what these machines are doing.
Zim says 1/2in and hammer, I say heat and 3/4 impact. Well I think Zim knows these machines will be painted up to sit like a show car and never be used. I tightened mine up like a guy out west who uses his machine suggested. Mine is a working machine which hasn't fell apart yet?? If it does then you can say, "Told you so!"
If I had a hydraulic tool to use, then I would do so. But on machines that get less than 50 gallons of fuel put through them in a year. An expensive specailized tool is hard to justify.
My opinion whether you all like it or not,
Jeff