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22 runs good until hot.

22 runs good until hot.

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tailseat15
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Here's the symptoms. Hopefully I can get them fixed soon.
This twenty two runs good on gas when it's cold. Starts on 1st or 3rd pull pretty much. But after running awhile and warming up good, or if it's hot outside ( was over 100°f yesterday) it starts running rear rough, has no power and needs the choke on to just keep running, if at all.
It has a good mag. I have cleaned the carb and had the manifold on and off when I first got the tractor running. I was thinking perhaps an air leak somewhere may be opening up?
I was going to do a carb swap first and see if that changed it. Anybody experience this before?
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Sun, Jun 14, 2015 10:36 PM
dpendzic
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a dump truck of mine had the same symptoms--vapor lock caused by gas in gas line got too hot and actually boils and makes vapor--solved it by spacing gasline away from heat source and adding insulation
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Sun, Jun 14, 2015 10:45 PM
tailseat15
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Reply to dpendzic:
a dump truck of mine had the same symptoms--vapor lock caused by gas in gas line got too hot and actually boils and makes vapor--solved it by spacing gasline away from heat source and adding insulation
It sure seems like something is leaning it out. I have the fuel pump bypassed, rubber fuel lines. Good idea, I'll try moving them.
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Mon, Jun 15, 2015 12:48 AM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to dpendzic:
a dump truck of mine had the same symptoms--vapor lock caused by gas in gas line got too hot and actually boils and makes vapor--solved it by spacing gasline away from heat source and adding insulation


You may have to insulate your fuel line from the tank to the carb. Years ago people used to snap wooden clothpins on the old air cooled 4 cylinder Wisconsin baler engines to keep them from vapor locking. Supposedly the clothpins helped transfer the heat away. Some people wrapped tin foil on the fuel line to help dissipate the heat.
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Mon, Jun 15, 2015 12:49 AM
timbo1946
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Reply to old-iron-habit:


You may have to insulate your fuel line from the tank to the carb. Years ago people used to snap wooden clothpins on the old air cooled 4 cylinder Wisconsin baler engines to keep them from vapor locking. Supposedly the clothpins helped transfer the heat away. Some people wrapped tin foil on the fuel line to help dissipate the heat.
My IH OS6 tractor did the same thig when I got it. It turned out the intack manifold had a crack, that opened up when getting run for a little bit. It was hard to find but once I did it was obvious

tim
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Mon, Jun 15, 2015 1:52 AM
mrsmackpaul
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Reply to timbo1946:
My IH OS6 tractor did the same thig when I got it. It turned out the intack manifold had a crack, that opened up when getting run for a little bit. It was hard to find but once I did it was obvious

tim
grab a can of CRC or WD 40 type of stuff and squirt some around the manifold if there is a leak or small crack that opens up the motor should return to normal when it gets extra fuel from the can a lot of the time the motor will rev up straight away sounds like you have a vacuum leak to me or as stated above your vaporising fuel and its running lean

Paul
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Mon, Jun 15, 2015 2:38 AM
tailseat15
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Reply to mrsmackpaul:
grab a can of CRC or WD 40 type of stuff and squirt some around the manifold if there is a leak or small crack that opens up the motor should return to normal when it gets extra fuel from the can a lot of the time the motor will rev up straight away sounds like you have a vacuum leak to me or as stated above your vaporising fuel and its running lean

Paul
I was hoping the manifold isn't cracked inside the double wall portion where I can't see. I guess I'll try the fuel lines and spray first. Thanks
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Mon, Jun 15, 2015 4:46 AM
drujinin
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Reply to tailseat15:
I was hoping the manifold isn't cracked inside the double wall portion where I can't see. I guess I'll try the fuel lines and spray first. Thanks
The problem with those enclosed manifolds is they will collect moisture in the carbon exhaust residue inside the space between the two manifolds, then rust and swell. In Northern climates, they will freeze break as more rust and carbon collect moisture. Yours seems to exhibit an internal heat crack which is opening from the heat.
BUT!
I would loosen the Fuel Cap, fill the tank full and readjust the line to positively eliminate any possibility of Vapor Lock. A full tank will guarantee positive fuel flow to the carb!
One other option could be the Mag is leaking as it heats up?
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Mon, Jun 15, 2015 6:18 PM
kracked1
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Reply to drujinin:
The problem with those enclosed manifolds is they will collect moisture in the carbon exhaust residue inside the space between the two manifolds, then rust and swell. In Northern climates, they will freeze break as more rust and carbon collect moisture. Yours seems to exhibit an internal heat crack which is opening from the heat.
BUT!
I would loosen the Fuel Cap, fill the tank full and readjust the line to positively eliminate any possibility of Vapor Lock. A full tank will guarantee positive fuel flow to the carb!
One other option could be the Mag is leaking as it heats up?
I agree on internal crack. Fought it for years on a tractor.
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Tue, Jun 16, 2015 12:01 AM
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