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1957 D69U fuel in oil, motor oil pouring out crankcase vent

1957 D69U fuel in oil, motor oil pouring out crankcase vent

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Cobalt Kid
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Gentlemen,

Have not been on here for a long time but sure could use your assistance.

Was over looking at a D6 with a friend. One that he is thinking on buying This machine had apparently ran last year. The pup fired up right away, quit and then would not start. We cleaned up the points and lubed the pivot point of the points and we were off to the races. The pup ran sweet. We then proceeded to get the diesel engine going. It too didn't take too much and it fired to life. Then the problem occurred. As I was moving it back and forth to loosen up the undercarriage and clutches , and testing the brakes ,it's still winter here just so you get the picture. I looked over on my right and seen engine oil pouring out the breather vent for the crankcase, the one just above the filler cap. I shut it down right away. Never seen that happen before? When we checked the oil prior to start up it looked clean but thin, and did not smell of diesel. I also know you are supposed to check the oil when the engine is running at idle to get a true reading. So anyways I unscrewed the breather cap, cleaned it with a rag, it looked a little dirty, thought maybe plugged,cleaned it best I could and put it back on. Restarted the pup,checked the oil in the diesel engine to see if there was still enough in the engine to run it and fired it up. The engine runs nice just like the pup, checked the oil again and could see fuel like droplets so to speak on the dipstick. Could not get a good reading on the stick. We talked to the owner and he said all fluids were changed on it last year. I had checked the pup engine before starting it and the oil was clean and did not smell of gas, and the transmission oil was up and clean also. So I would have a tendency to believe him.

The machine is in fine shape, the rollers sprockets and idlers are hardly worn, the hydraulics for the blade works good, strong and no leaks. It also has a winch too, but we have yet to test it. The history behind it is that it was a Power company machine, government owned and well maintained, and sat more than worked.

He is asking 15000 for it . I like the machine, I have three D4's myself so am somewhat partial,haha.

So now that all of that is said any ideas as to what the problem could be? Big job, small job to fix it? Also do you think 15 thousand is too much?


Please reply,
Cobalt Kid
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Sat, Mar 12, 2016 10:48 PM
Old Magnet
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Typical failure of the o-ring seal between filter tower and injection pump. Requires removal of pump to repair. Depending on s/n there may be one or two of the o-rings for the fuel gallery. To check take that funny looking cover off the side of the filter tower and you can see the leak source.
$10k was about the highest sale that I recall recently.
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Sat, Mar 12, 2016 11:23 PM
Cobalt Kid
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Typical failure of the o-ring seal between filter tower and injection pump. Requires removal of pump to repair. Depending on s/n there may be one or two of the o-rings for the fuel gallery. To check take that funny looking cover off the side of the filter tower and you can see the leak source.
$10k was about the highest sale that I recall recently.
Good day Old Magnet,

Thank you for the quick reply.

Serial # is 9U24933 We do not have a parts or service manual for the D6 but I do have ones for my d4's which are 1955's . Would the towers and the pumps be somewhat similar, just so that we would have something to go by, as to the procedure and removal of the pump and changing of the O ring(s). Also where do you recommend to purchase these o rings? Suggestions would be great!

Plus,what type of oil would you suggest on using, as we will have to drain and refill the crankcase. I use 15W40 Shell Rotella, but not quite sure if this is the best case scenario for these old girls.

It would be easier to fix at home and more convenient time wise so another question. How long would it take, before this overflow would happen again, if unchecked or not noticed? I am just thinking if we can get it for a cheaper price " as is ", sort of speak . Would we be able to load it on a flat bed and get it off loaded before she erupted again, and how much would it hurt it, being as the oil is diluted, and oil volume would be less.

Just one last question as I am curious. If the crankcase is over filled, by either water/antifreeze, oil, or diesel does it always come out the crankcase breather/vent cap? It was quite unsettling seeing this turbulent overflow of oil/diesel.
Cobalt Kid
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Sun, Mar 13, 2016 12:21 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Cobalt Kid:
Good day Old Magnet,

Thank you for the quick reply.

Serial # is 9U24933 We do not have a parts or service manual for the D6 but I do have ones for my d4's which are 1955's . Would the towers and the pumps be somewhat similar, just so that we would have something to go by, as to the procedure and removal of the pump and changing of the O ring(s). Also where do you recommend to purchase these o rings? Suggestions would be great!

Plus,what type of oil would you suggest on using, as we will have to drain and refill the crankcase. I use 15W40 Shell Rotella, but not quite sure if this is the best case scenario for these old girls.

It would be easier to fix at home and more convenient time wise so another question. How long would it take, before this overflow would happen again, if unchecked or not noticed? I am just thinking if we can get it for a cheaper price " as is ", sort of speak . Would we be able to load it on a flat bed and get it off loaded before she erupted again, and how much would it hurt it, being as the oil is diluted, and oil volume would be less.

Just one last question as I am curious. If the crankcase is over filled, by either water/antifreeze, oil, or diesel does it always come out the crankcase breather/vent cap? It was quite unsettling seeing this turbulent overflow of oil/diesel.
Cobalt Kid
That s/n uses two 8B4967 o-ring seals, same as -318 trade size. Change out the one at the governor end of the fuel gallery as well when your in there.
Same arrangement and instructions as the D4.
Normally you see the overflow at the dipstick first, must be pretty bad to be coming out the vent/fill cap.
Do not run the engine in this condition as you risk wiping out the engine bearings.
Straight weight engine oil was the original recommendation depending on temperature for appropriate grade. Your call on the 15W40.
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Sun, Mar 13, 2016 1:02 AM
Ray54
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Reply to Old Magnet:
That s/n uses two 8B4967 o-ring seals, same as -318 trade size. Change out the one at the governor end of the fuel gallery as well when your in there.
Same arrangement and instructions as the D4.
Normally you see the overflow at the dipstick first, must be pretty bad to be coming out the vent/fill cap.
Do not run the engine in this condition as you risk wiping out the engine bearings.
Straight weight engine oil was the original recommendation depending on temperature for appropriate grade. Your call on the 15W40.
That is a high price, in my world.But they are common here as well.Last fall a friend looking for disc parts was having buyers remorse about paying $7500 for direct start with good undercarriage and angle blade,the other parts gone through by a experienced mechanic.

I went through the same problem in a D6 last spring.Was planting safflower and needed it bad. I check them at the end of the as part of cool down.Saw it was over full on oil, had been thinking it was gaining rather the losing as normal.Changed it ran it 6 0r 7 hours and over full again. Took a chance and walked it home ,less than a hour.What ever fuel was left in tank after less than 8 hours run time was in crankcase by the time we repaired it.

I don't call my self a real mechanic,but with some young muscle it was a easy job.After reading up on it and asking here no surprises. The one warning the old O-ring will look like a square packing from the years of being pressed together. All gaskets and seals were about $50 from Cat.
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Sun, Mar 13, 2016 2:18 AM
cojhl2
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[quote="Cobalt Kid"]Gentlemen,

I also know you are supposed to check the oil when the engine is running at idle to get a true reading.

Cobalt Kid[/quote]

With the engine not running, the oil level should be about 1in above the running engine level.
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Sun, Mar 13, 2016 4:19 AM
Cobalt Kid
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Reply to cojhl2:
[quote="Cobalt Kid"]Gentlemen,

I also know you are supposed to check the oil when the engine is running at idle to get a true reading.

Cobalt Kid[/quote]

With the engine not running, the oil level should be about 1in above the running engine level.
You guys on here are Awesome! What else can I say!

Thanks for the info. Every bit helps.

Cobalt Kid
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Sun, Mar 13, 2016 8:53 AM
neil
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Reply to Cobalt Kid:
You guys on here are Awesome! What else can I say!

Thanks for the info. Every bit helps.

Cobalt Kid
John, would it also be about an inch above the mark for a D2 D311 when the engine is not running?
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Mon, Mar 14, 2016 2:41 AM
Sasquatch
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Reply to neil:
John, would it also be about an inch above the mark for a D2 D311 when the engine is not running?


Neil, yes on my 5U D2 the oil level is also around 1" above the "full" mark on the stick if it's been shut down for a bit. My startup ritual always includes looking at that as a pre-cranking check, if it's in that range it's at least safe to start. I still give it one last check after it's running though, just to verify it's properly within the marks on the stick.
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Mon, Mar 14, 2016 5:08 AM
cojhl2
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Reply to Sasquatch:


Neil, yes on my 5U D2 the oil level is also around 1" above the "full" mark on the stick if it's been shut down for a bit. My startup ritual always includes looking at that as a pre-cranking check, if it's in that range it's at least safe to start. I still give it one last check after it's running though, just to verify it's properly within the marks on the stick.
Hi Neil,

I did not know about the D2 but Sasquatch got that covered.

The reason I know about the D6 is because of the shutdown and startup ritual I always followed. When coming to the trap wagon after a day's run and while the engine is in cool down mode that is the time for fuelup, lubing anything that needed (back in the day it included a squirt to the carrier rollers) looking underneath for any sign of fluid leaks, and always checking the engine oil. I could without looking always add 1/2 gal to the engine. (That tractor used that for the thousands of hours I ran it.)

Then as Sasquatch does I always pulled the stick in the morning to make sure some jerk did not drop the oil during the night. That is how I know the approx 1+ in over the full at run mark.
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Mon, Mar 14, 2016 7:52 AM
Cobalt Kid
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Reply to cojhl2:
Hi Neil,

I did not know about the D2 but Sasquatch got that covered.

The reason I know about the D6 is because of the shutdown and startup ritual I always followed. When coming to the trap wagon after a day's run and while the engine is in cool down mode that is the time for fuelup, lubing anything that needed (back in the day it included a squirt to the carrier rollers) looking underneath for any sign of fluid leaks, and always checking the engine oil. I could without looking always add 1/2 gal to the engine. (That tractor used that for the thousands of hours I ran it.)

Then as Sasquatch does I always pulled the stick in the morning to make sure some jerk did not drop the oil during the night. That is how I know the approx 1+ in over the full at run mark.
Got some knew information as to the history of the D69U. As I said previously, it came from a power (hydro ) company and was used very little, and 750 on the clock is the true hours .
The reason being, they could not find the diesel leaking into the oil, so it sat. One of their employees tried starting it after a lengthy time of sitting, and it developed a miss, so it sat some more. A local area man bought it 2 years ago for an undisclosed price, brought it home and took off the valve cover and discovered 2 bent valves on the #3 cylinder, changed those and still had the miss. He then took the head off and noticed that the #3 piston was 1/4 of an inch shy on it's stroke, so the story goes. Replaced the connecting rod ( bent ) with a used one and buttoned it back up, but still did not find the leak. Oh and he was also the one that changed all the fluids. He put 10w30 Shell Rotella in for engine oil and add some diesel to it,no wonder it looked thin, wow! He then sold it to the present owner that we have been talking to.

Ok, so now what! It ran nice for the time we had it running, just saying. Should we go near it. or let someone else have her? Also , if we do go back, what's it worth now?

Cobalt Kid
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Tue, Mar 15, 2016 6:23 AM
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