1957 D69U fuel in oil, motor oil pouring out crankcase vent

Typical failure of the o-ring seal between filter tower and injection pump. Requires removal of pump to repair. Depending on s/n there may be one or two of the o-rings for the fuel gallery. To check take that funny looking cover off the side of the filter tower and you can see the leak source.
$10k was about the highest sale that I recall recently.

Good day Old Magnet,

Thank you for the quick reply.

Serial # is 9U24933 We do not have a parts or service manual for the D6 but I do have ones for my d4's which are 1955's . Would the towers and the pumps be somewhat similar, just so that we would have something to go by, as to the procedure and removal of the pump and changing of the O ring(s). Also where do you recommend to purchase these o rings? Suggestions would be great!

Plus,what type of oil would you suggest on using, as we will have to drain and refill the crankcase. I use 15W40 Shell Rotella, but not quite sure if this is the best case scenario for these old girls.

It would be easier to fix at home and more convenient time wise so another question. How long would it take, before this overflow would happen again, if unchecked or not noticed? I am just thinking if we can get it for a cheaper price " as is ", sort of speak . Would we be able to load it on a flat bed and get it off loaded before she erupted again, and how much would it hurt it, being as the oil is diluted, and oil volume would be less.

Just one last question as I am curious. If the crankcase is over filled, by either water/antifreeze, oil, or diesel does it always come out the crankcase breather/vent cap? It was quite unsettling seeing this turbulent overflow of oil/diesel.
Cobalt Kid

That s/n uses two 8B4967 o-ring seals, same as -318 trade size. Change out the one at the governor end of the fuel gallery as well when your in there.
Same arrangement and instructions as the D4.
Normally you see the overflow at the dipstick first, must be pretty bad to be coming out the vent/fill cap.
Do not run the engine in this condition as you risk wiping out the engine bearings.
Straight weight engine oil was the original recommendation depending on temperature for appropriate grade. Your call on the 15W40.

[quote="Cobalt Kid"]Gentlemen,

I also know you are supposed to check the oil when the engine is running at idle to get a true reading.

Cobalt Kid[/quote]

With the engine not running, the oil level should be about 1in above the running engine level.

You guys on here are Awesome! What else can I say!

Thanks for the info. Every bit helps.

Cobalt Kid

John, would it also be about an inch above the mark for a D2 D311 when the engine is not running?

Neil, yes on my 5U D2 the oil level is also around 1" above the "full" mark on the stick if it's been shut down for a bit. My startup ritual always includes looking at that as a pre-cranking check, if it's in that range it's at least safe to start. I still give it one last check after it's running though, just to verify it's properly within the marks on the stick.

Hi Neil,

I did not know about the D2 but Sasquatch got that covered.

The reason I know about the D6 is because of the shutdown and startup ritual I always followed. When coming to the trap wagon after a day's run and while the engine is in cool down mode that is the time for fuelup, lubing anything that needed (back in the day it included a squirt to the carrier rollers) looking underneath for any sign of fluid leaks, and always checking the engine oil. I could without looking always add 1/2 gal to the engine. (That tractor used that for the thousands of hours I ran it.)

Then as Sasquatch does I always pulled the stick in the morning to make sure some jerk did not drop the oil during the night. That is how I know the approx 1+ in over the full at run mark.