1956 D4 7U track pins & bushings

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Johnsonwm

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Just as the title says, I'm looking for good part numbers for track pins & bushings. CAT or otherwise, I don't really care. Rails measure 3-7/16" tall, sprockets are worn, 4 roller track frame & solid front idler. It is missing 1 track roller that I'm going to have to replace. It has 18" track pads on it iirc. I intend on building up the worn components with weld to refurbish them. It gets fairly low usage during the year, but I'm tired of making sure I don't throw a track while I'm using it.

I had Michigan CAT come out about about 6 or 7 years ago to assess the undercarriage. The gentleman told me that the rollers & front idler were still serviceable, but the pins & bushings were toast. The sprockets weren't far behind either. He gave me an estimate of 400-500 hours of service life left. I'm currently at that mark.

I do have some other ideas for 'improvements' & 'upgrades' for it, but I need to get the undercarriage sorted out first. Sorry if the photos aren't the best. It's what I currently have available on my phone. Any help is appreciated.
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Mon, Jan 24, 2022 4:47 AM

juiceman

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Heck, the roller flanges and pin bosses are not even banging against each other. If your sprocket teeth are worn to the point where they would slip, personally I would just weld on some sprocket rims and call it good. Are your bushings eaten through? or just worn flat ? Unless you use it a lot, you could just run the UC beyond the limits and replace everything when absolutely zero life left. (just my opinion) How "Snakey" are the rails themselves? If you maintain tension and have good rock guards, that helps . JM

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Mon, Jan 24, 2022 6:30 AM

Johnsonwm

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Some bushings are eaten through, others have a noticeable wear indentation in them. The driver side is missing one pin & bushing. It's being held together by a grade 8 bolt, it was like that when I bought it 11 years ago. The tensioners are trashed. Several years ago I tried massive amounts of heat & leverage for several days to adjust them. They just flat out wouldn't budge. I'm looking at buying some of the hydrajusters from Henderson mfg to replace them. I have no rock guards for this machine, although I may have found a cast set for sale. I'm trying to avoid trashing everything & then replace it all. I'd rather spend some money now, instead of a lot later. Not sure what you mean by 'snakey' rails? They seem to track fairly well, but there is noticeable wear on the sides of them.

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Mon, Jan 24, 2022 7:18 AM

Ray54

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Reply to Johnsonwm:

Some bushings are eaten through, others have a noticeable wear indentation in them. The driver side is missing one pin & bushing. It's being held together by a grade 8 bolt, it was like that when I bought it 11 years ago. The tensioners are trashed. Several years ago I tried massive amounts of heat & leverage for several days to adjust them. They just flat out wouldn't budge. I'm looking at buying some of the hydrajusters from Henderson mfg to replace them. I have no rock guards for this machine, although I may have found a cast set for sale. I'm trying to avoid trashing everything & then replace it all. I'd rather spend some money now, instead of a lot later. Not sure what you mean by 'snakey' rails? They seem to track fairly well, but there is noticeable wear on the sides of them.

Well since you have bushings warren through the old time way would be new pins and bushings. But I don't know how that works today. From comment on this board costs to much to put new lubricated pins and bushing in a rail today so the tooling to do those jobs is disappearing. Beside finding pins and bushing for a track as old as your.

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Mon, Jan 24, 2022 8:33 AM

gauntjoh

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Reply to Ray54:

Well since you have bushings warren through the old time way would be new pins and bushings. But I don't know how that works today. From comment on this board costs to much to put new lubricated pins and bushing in a rail today so the tooling to do those jobs is disappearing. Beside finding pins and bushing for a track as old as your.

If you do decide to build up some of the components (excluding pins and bushes), there are several “conservation bulletins” in the members library that explain how to do this.

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Mon, Jan 24, 2022 9:47 AM

Johnsonwm

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Gauntjoh, yes, I did see those. Lots of good information in there! It at least gives some good numbers to go off of, which is half the battle.

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Tue, Jan 25, 2022 4:13 AM

bursitis

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Reply to Johnsonwm:

Gauntjoh, yes, I did see those. Lots of good information in there! It at least gives some good numbers to go off of, which is half the battle.

you can still buy inserts to weld into the sprockets also

D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.

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Tue, Jan 25, 2022 5:45 AM

Johnsonwm

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Gauntjoh, yes, I did see those. Lots of good information in there! It at least gives some good numbers to go off of, which is half the battle.

Really? I was unaware of that. Do you have the contact information for who still makes & sells them? That's something I would be interested in.

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Tue, Jan 25, 2022 5:49 AM

willwingo

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Henderson still lists the track adjusters on their website - https://www.hendersonmfgco.com/

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Tue, Jan 25, 2022 6:30 AM

Johnsonwm

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Really? I was unaware of that. Do you have the contact information for who still makes & sells them? That's something I would be interested in.

HV-4 is the seal part number. D8V is 4 roller, while D8SV is 5 roller. I just checked my old emails, and as of about 1 year ago they were $489 per side + tax/shipping. When did you check prices? Everything is going through the roof right now anyway.

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Tue, Jan 25, 2022 7:33 AM

d2gary

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I had the shells for the sprockets made at my friend's welding shop for about $1 a piece. He had some tooling that was really close to the correct shape for the shell in his press. The conservation directives in the members library will give the dimensions for the size of the plate to form. If you have access to a shop press you could make some sort of crude die to form them yourself. I was able to hand form the "prototype" that I took to the shop so thats an option. I've also read that some fellas used the correct size pipe cut in half with good results. I would steer clear of trying to just welding the sprockets up, that would be a lot of welding
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