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1956 d2 n

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troy cronin
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working on installing the direst electric starter. found that i should use a 40mt or a 42mt delco remy starter. what is the difference between the 40mt and 42mt? can you tell by the apperance? came across a few starters without tags on them and not sure what they are. one says it is a 37mt. would that one work? i found a starter drive on ebay and it is for a 40mt. would that fit the 42mt? or possibly fit the 32mt if that stater will work? i will most likely remove my electric start pony motor. it starts and runs but i believe it needs the carb rebuilt. the electric start would be much handier!


Thanks, Troy
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Mon, Oct 29, 2012 10:40 AM
ccjersey
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Maybe OM will show up soon, but here's my 2 cts.
The difference between the 40MT and 42MT is a seal between the drive and motor area. The 42MT is sealed for use on wet clutch/flywheel systems which you should not have (when have you drained your clutch housing?😆 The same drive fits both 40 and 42.

The 37MT is one I see a lot of. They fit a lot of JD tractors and are a light duty version of the 40/42mt. My starter/generator guy hates the 37MT's. He should love them, we give him lots of business fixing them. So avoid the 37MT if you have room for the 40/42 (you do on a CAT). I don't think the same drive will fit on the 37 either.

You have to have the right drive for the helical cut gear on the diesel flywheel. This is because of the helical cut as well as the direction of rotation/slant of the teeth. There are both clockwise and counterclockwise drives available, can't remember off the top of my head which you want. The same drive WILL fit the 40/42 and the 50 MT.

I have to say that the cheapest route for you to have a nice starting system would probably be to clean the gas tank, reline it, clean the lines to the carburetor and then clean the carburetor properly and reinstall using new gaskets. The cleaning must include drilling out the soft plug on the end of the passageway across the bottom of the bowl from the load or main mixture adjustment screw to the high speed metering well with the removable plug.

This passageway accumulates the sediments and varnish of 50+ years of gasoline until the pony must run with choke on all the time if it runs at all. Drill the passage out with about a 5/32 or 1/8" bit in a hand drill until the tip appears in the high speed metering well. Plug the hole you drilled with a blob of solder or lead shot and you're good to go. There are other soft plugs and passages in the compensating jet passage etc, if you want to go through it completely, but the bottom one is the usual culprit.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Oct 29, 2012 8:44 PM
troy cronin
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Reply to ccjersey:
Maybe OM will show up soon, but here's my 2 cts.
The difference between the 40MT and 42MT is a seal between the drive and motor area. The 42MT is sealed for use on wet clutch/flywheel systems which you should not have (when have you drained your clutch housing?😆 The same drive fits both 40 and 42.

The 37MT is one I see a lot of. They fit a lot of JD tractors and are a light duty version of the 40/42mt. My starter/generator guy hates the 37MT's. He should love them, we give him lots of business fixing them. So avoid the 37MT if you have room for the 40/42 (you do on a CAT). I don't think the same drive will fit on the 37 either.

You have to have the right drive for the helical cut gear on the diesel flywheel. This is because of the helical cut as well as the direction of rotation/slant of the teeth. There are both clockwise and counterclockwise drives available, can't remember off the top of my head which you want. The same drive WILL fit the 40/42 and the 50 MT.

I have to say that the cheapest route for you to have a nice starting system would probably be to clean the gas tank, reline it, clean the lines to the carburetor and then clean the carburetor properly and reinstall using new gaskets. The cleaning must include drilling out the soft plug on the end of the passageway across the bottom of the bowl from the load or main mixture adjustment screw to the high speed metering well with the removable plug.

This passageway accumulates the sediments and varnish of 50+ years of gasoline until the pony must run with choke on all the time if it runs at all. Drill the passage out with about a 5/32 or 1/8" bit in a hand drill until the tip appears in the high speed metering well. Plug the hole you drilled with a blob of solder or lead shot and you're good to go. There are other soft plugs and passages in the compensating jet passage etc, if you want to go through it completely, but the bottom one is the usual culprit.
thanks jersey, i talked to a guy around home who told me a few things to look at for the difference between the 40mt and 42mt. the 40mt has two plugs aproximately one and a half round on the rear of the starter housing. this is how you access the brushes on the 40mt starter where as you take a larger cover off the back side of the starter housing on the 42 mt and the 42mt does not have the one and a half inch plugs on the rear of the starter housing. i ordered the starter drive i needed on ebay from triodiode DC electric and tractor. i needed the clockwise drive. stock number was 12196. the guy was realy helpfull over the phone. the phone number is 866-840-2844. they also have counter clockwise drives. so i know have found a starter and the drive is ordered. should have the starter on before long. im fortunate that my dozer had the bellhousing already drilled and machined for the starter. i will probably remove the pony motor and make me a block off plate. any ideas on how much i should sell my electric start pony motor for? i actually have two of them. also, no my d2 does not have oil in the flywheel housing. that was one of my concerns. my book tells me is supposed to have 14qts of oil in there? has me a little confused? not sure weather i need to put oil in ot or keep running it dry? and ideas or tips?
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Mon, Oct 29, 2012 9:21 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to troy cronin:
thanks jersey, i talked to a guy around home who told me a few things to look at for the difference between the 40mt and 42mt. the 40mt has two plugs aproximately one and a half round on the rear of the starter housing. this is how you access the brushes on the 40mt starter where as you take a larger cover off the back side of the starter housing on the 42 mt and the 42mt does not have the one and a half inch plugs on the rear of the starter housing. i ordered the starter drive i needed on ebay from triodiode DC electric and tractor. i needed the clockwise drive. stock number was 12196. the guy was realy helpfull over the phone. the phone number is 866-840-2844. they also have counter clockwise drives. so i know have found a starter and the drive is ordered. should have the starter on before long. im fortunate that my dozer had the bellhousing already drilled and machined for the starter. i will probably remove the pony motor and make me a block off plate. any ideas on how much i should sell my electric start pony motor for? i actually have two of them. also, no my d2 does not have oil in the flywheel housing. that was one of my concerns. my book tells me is supposed to have 14qts of oil in there? has me a little confused? not sure weather i need to put oil in ot or keep running it dry? and ideas or tips?
Most of your questions are answered here.....although it is somewhat out of date.
http://sites.google.com/site/oldmagcat/

You will need to change the drive end housing also.
You also need to decide on voltage. Takes 24v if your going to run glow plugs.

I'd recommend the 24v Delco Remy #10478998 42MT for best fit but still requires slight notching for wrench clearance for one 12-pt mounting bolt to mount solenoid in near vertical position.

That oil fill of the clutch housing is only for oil clutch models.
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Mon, Oct 29, 2012 9:35 PM
troy cronin
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Most of your questions are answered here.....although it is somewhat out of date.
http://sites.google.com/site/oldmagcat/

You will need to change the drive end housing also.
You also need to decide on voltage. Takes 24v if your going to run glow plugs.

I'd recommend the 24v Delco Remy #10478998 42MT for best fit but still requires slight notching for wrench clearance for one 12-pt mounting bolt to mount solenoid in near vertical position.

That oil fill of the clutch housing is only for oil clutch models.
Thanks magnet, im not worried about the glow plugs due to fairly warm weather when i use the dozer. so im going to stick with a 12v system. would you happen to have the part # for the drive end housing that i will need? i have a 42mt starter. was wondering what the difference is between the standard one that is on it and the one that i need? Thanks so much for your help!!
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 7:48 AM
neil
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Reply to troy cronin:
Thanks magnet, im not worried about the glow plugs due to fairly warm weather when i use the dozer. so im going to stick with a 12v system. would you happen to have the part # for the drive end housing that i will need? i have a 42mt starter. was wondering what the difference is between the standard one that is on it and the one that i need? Thanks so much for your help!!
CCjersey,
I have my 3J's flywheel out currently and it has a straight-cut ring gear. Do you happen to know if a direct electric start is a possibility for this model? I'm thinking that since I have the engine out of the machine, I might as well do all the things that might make it a better unit, including boring out the electric starter hole (but not if there isn't an electric start option because I have the "wrong" ring gear)?
Cheers,
Neil.
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 7:55 AM
troy cronin
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Reply to neil:
CCjersey,
I have my 3J's flywheel out currently and it has a straight-cut ring gear. Do you happen to know if a direct electric start is a possibility for this model? I'm thinking that since I have the engine out of the machine, I might as well do all the things that might make it a better unit, including boring out the electric starter hole (but not if there isn't an electric start option because I have the "wrong" ring gear)?
Cheers,
Neil.
Magnet,
I searched a little more and seen in your listing that my d2 has a offset bolt pattern. would like to know where i would pick up one of these drive ends for my d2? and possibly what the part number and name brand of the drive end housing?

one other question if you dont mind? my blade keeps drifting down slowly and it satrted all ot once. im thinking i most like have a bad seal or o-ring in my lift cylinder control vale. the reason i believe its in the valve is because both cylinders drift down evenly where as if it was a cylinder problem i would think one side would drift off and not the other. i also have all new hydraulic hoses and no leaks anywhere. has to be and internal problem i would believe! and ideas?
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 8:11 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to neil:
CCjersey,
I have my 3J's flywheel out currently and it has a straight-cut ring gear. Do you happen to know if a direct electric start is a possibility for this model? I'm thinking that since I have the engine out of the machine, I might as well do all the things that might make it a better unit, including boring out the electric starter hole (but not if there isn't an electric start option because I have the "wrong" ring gear)?
Cheers,
Neil.
The preferred 12v version would be a Delco Remy #10478997. The difference is in the lever housings and how they index the drive end housing. Other units may require the solenoid to hang out furthur than necessary.

I don't have the Delco number for the drive end housing, just the trade number which is a 51-1291, available from CPC or Romaine Electric (Seattle, Wash) as listed in the sources part of the starter stuff.

On the dozer cylinders, do you have the early or late cylinders, eary units use cup type rubber seals which never fit well to begin with and are prone to blow out. Usually require back-up washers to reduce the gap to hold them in place. Look for a part number beginning with 5Fxxxx to see if you have the old style.
There are no o-rings in the control valve assuming we are talking the Cat #44 Hydraulic Control.
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 8:18 AM
ccjersey
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If the linkage that operates the hydraulic control isn't binding, the control is unlikely to be your problem with the dozer leaking down. Could be a problem in either cylinder, since they're tied together in parallel, a leak in one allows both to leak down equally as the fluid flows back and forth in the lines between the two.

Sometimes you can raise the dozer and then stop the tractor engine so it's quiet and hear the leak. Might have to have a stethescope if it's really slow. The other way to do it is to support the dozer in the raised position and cap off both cylinders to isolate each from the other and the control valve. Then remove whatever support you have holding up the dozer and see what you get.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 8:57 AM
chubjr
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[quote="troy cronin"]working on installing the direst electric starter. found that i should use a 40mt or a 42mt delco remy starter. what is the difference between the 40mt and 42mt? can you tell by the apperance? came across a few starters without tags on them and not sure what they are. one says it is a 37mt. would that one work? i found a starter drive on ebay and it is for a 40mt. would that fit the 42mt? or possibly fit the 32mt if that stater will work? i will most likely remove my electric start pony motor. it starts and runs but i believe it needs the carb rebuilt. the electric start would be much handier!


Thanks, Troy[/quote]

are you looking to get rid of the electric start parts off of the pony??
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Wed, Nov 7, 2012 11:56 PM
neil
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Reply to chubjr:
[quote="troy cronin"]working on installing the direst electric starter. found that i should use a 40mt or a 42mt delco remy starter. what is the difference between the 40mt and 42mt? can you tell by the apperance? came across a few starters without tags on them and not sure what they are. one says it is a 37mt. would that one work? i found a starter drive on ebay and it is for a 40mt. would that fit the 42mt? or possibly fit the 32mt if that stater will work? i will most likely remove my electric start pony motor. it starts and runs but i believe it needs the carb rebuilt. the electric start would be much handier!


Thanks, Troy[/quote]

are you looking to get rid of the electric start parts off of the pony??
CC or Old Magnet - my 3J4086 ring gear is straight cut - is there a 40/42MT option for straight cut gears?
Cheers,
Neil.
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Thu, Nov 8, 2012 1:58 AM
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