1955 D2 Brake Drum Removal

When I did the brake linings on my d2 I put my home made puller on as tight as I could and used a heat gun for about 5-10 min pointed to the splined shaft. Then I hit the end of the puller with a hammer and left it to cool down. I repeated this every day, and on the forth day when I hit the puller the drum poped off. I made a puller out of a well cap and some 1" grade 8 ready rod. I don't know if this is an advisable method, but it worked for me!

Its OK getting the drum off without the correct hydraulic tooling, but how are you going to press it back on at the correct tonnage?

I questioned how to press it on again as well, and asked a friend who was an old cat skinner/bush mechanic who told me what he used to do was heat the brake drum and then slide it onto the spline and tighten up the bolt. He then use a socket placed over the bolt (that coverd the washer) and whacked it with a heavy hammer which allowed another quarter or so turn on the bolt. He told me to repeat this process until the bolt was tight after a hammer hit. He said that he never had a break drum come loose using this method and did it multiple times on manny machines including his two d7's. He has three d2's two of which are restored and was my biggest help when I restored my d2 two years ago. Having the right tooling is a big bonus but I sure learned a thing or two from this man when it came to using simple tools for big tasks...

Heat the drum if you need to since they are shot anyway. I use a Hyd cylinder with a heavy flat bar, B8 threaded rod, and hard flanged nuts to pull & never had any problems.

I wonder what happens to the pinion bearings when you beat the flanges on with a heavy hammer?

I wonder what happens to the pinion bearings when you beat the flanges on with a heavy hammer?

Here is a setup I used to remove some steering clutches.

Thank you to everyone for their feedback. Just a bit of an update. I was using an OTC 927 10 ton push puller with no success on the outer brake drum removal. Hence the question about using a bigger puller or applying heat. As well, I should point out that the steering clutches and brakes were not seized - I was just hoping to put new pads in since the old ones are glazed and don't grab as they should. My plan is to buy the 17.5 ton puller and give it another try. However, regarding installation, is there a spec for how many tons of pressure is required to press the hub on? As well, if there is no way to do this with with the manual puller, I may be forced to borrow a hydraulic unit from a local shop. As usual, any feedback is welcome!

If memory serves me it was recommended at 15 ton but over the years guys have had parts break so the NEW recommended value is 10 ton!
There was a thread years ago where the fellows discussed what temperature to heat the part to, then run it on with an Impact gun verses pounding on it as your friend suggested. Not saying he is wrong, just Murphy's Law for me is I would crack a race or shatter a bearing.
General consensus was that this was an acceptable way to put these parts on the splined shafts as these are no longer working machines just play toys.