ACMOC
Login
ACMOC
1951 Cat Model 12 transmission lube and seals

1951 Cat Model 12 transmission lube and seals

Showing 1 to 10 of 10 results
Brian.Hart
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to Brian.Hart
Posts: 20
Thank you received: 0
I got my 1951 model 12 last year to use for road maintenance on our private road. I had to do a complete brake system rebuild due to it having been used and then sitting for years in our web Oregon/Washington winters. It has done a terrific job of maintaining my 1-1/2 miles long private road.

Then we had a quirk. Last year when the temperature was about 12°, I could not get it out of reverse. It turned to be a bent shift interlock lever that was therefore binding where it enters the transmission. A quick bend back by hand in warmer weather, and all was well. After the fact, our best guess was that any water in the transmission oil had frozen solid, not allowing the rod to move freely, and it had been bent.

So this fall, I decided it was high time to get the water out and possibly replace the transmission oil. Since I am not super-experienced in these things, I took it over to a neighbor that has much more experience. Well, he got it all drained, but when he refilled with (~15 gallons?) 80/90W gear oil, it just ran out the (axle?) seals. He says that replacing those seals looks like a monstrous job involving removing the tandem wheel assembly. So this is question #1: can some one provide the part numbers for those seals and any other parts/seals that should be replaced at the same time as well as a guide to replacing those seals? I have not seen the grader since I left it at his place for him to have his crack at solving my problem, but since he seems to have a good idea that it would involve removing the wheels, I can only assume this to be the axle seals.

Now, the fact that 80/98W just leaks out so fast may also explain why the oil that came out was not even just old 80/90W oil, but, he says, something like CornHead grease, 0, 00, or 000 grease. His best guess is 000 grease. He says, in fact, that he had to heat up the lubricant just to get the water to separate, as the oil/grease would not float on the water; the water was just pooling up in pockets within the lubricant.

So this is question #2: what type of lubricant is this likely to be, and what is a good source? At this point, I cannot tell if the guy who sold it to me put that grease in there just to avoid having any leaks that would prevent a sale or if the hazel nut farmer that used it from when it was new until it was sold to the guy that sold it to me had already being using it with this super high-viscosity lubricant.

And the overarching question: I use this grader less than four hours per month; it is just for managing our 1-1/2 mile long gravel road. Am I going to destroy it if I keep using it with this high-viscosity lubricant for a few hours this winter before I can get around to getting the seals replaced? (Temperature when using the grader is 35°-50° in the winter). Or is the thick lubricant itself a decent long-term solution?
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Mon, Dec 16, 2019 1:44 AM
Old Magnet
Offline
Send a private message to Old Magnet
Posts: 16,757
Thank you received: 39
That's a big job to replace the seals.
Nothing wrong with using NLGI "0" (corn head grease). Just the thing for leaky seals and can be continued use if that solves the leakage problem. I think he's reading the grease scale backwards, more "0's" means thinner. Do not go heavier as it will lead to channeling and no flow.
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Mon, Dec 16, 2019 7:10 AM
oldbeek
Offline
Member
Send a private message to oldbeek
Posts: 781
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Old Magnet:
That's a big job to replace the seals.
Nothing wrong with using NLGI "0" (corn head grease). Just the thing for leaky seals and can be continued use if that solves the leakage problem. I think he's reading the grease scale backwards, more "0's" means thinner. Do not go heavier as it will lead to channeling and no flow.
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Are you over filling it? I have a 1951 8T and use 80-90 in it. There are a few leaks but nothing pours out. Oil is cheap. Now if you are talking about the axles at the center of the tandems leaking. That is not a huge job. Just big stuff. Servicemans reference book Form. FEO30124-03 has the procedure. I would be concerned that if it leaks that bad, what is causing it. Are the pivot bearings loose? Or broken? Out board bearing gone? Lift the machine up and down, with the blade lifts, and watching for movement at that pivot point. The only movement should be pivoting. Axle Timken's should be loaded pretty tight. Reference rear axle in your parts book. The axle bearings and the outboard bearings carry the whole load of the machine.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Tue, Dec 17, 2019 5:29 AM
Brian.Hart
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to Brian.Hart
Posts: 20
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Old Magnet:
That's a big job to replace the seals.
Nothing wrong with using NLGI "0" (corn head grease). Just the thing for leaky seals and can be continued use if that solves the leakage problem. I think he's reading the grease scale backwards, more "0's" means thinner. Do not go heavier as it will lead to channeling and no flow.
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
[quote="Old Magnet"]That's a big job to replace the seals.
Nothing wrong with using NLGI "0" (corn head grease). Just the thing for leaky seals and can be continued use if that solves the leakage problem. I think he's reading the grease scale backwards, more "0's" means thinner. Do not go heavier as it will lead to channeling and no flow.[/quote]

Thank you. We find that even with grease in there, it leaks while working/warm and stops leaking when the tranny cools down after we shut it down. The neighbor who pulled the grease out says that he has a bucket of corn head grease, and he says 1) what came out is definitely thinner and 2) corn head grease would be too thick. Most of what came out can go back in anyway, but we have to add about 5 gallons, so he wants to try 0 or 00; won't know how it compares to what came out until we get a bucket.

But it sounds like we are kinda on the right track.

Thank you for weighing in!
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Dec 19, 2019 12:46 AM
Brian.Hart
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to Brian.Hart
Posts: 20
Thank you received: 0
Reply to oldbeek:
Are you over filling it? I have a 1951 8T and use 80-90 in it. There are a few leaks but nothing pours out. Oil is cheap. Now if you are talking about the axles at the center of the tandems leaking. That is not a huge job. Just big stuff. Servicemans reference book Form. FEO30124-03 has the procedure. I would be concerned that if it leaks that bad, what is causing it. Are the pivot bearings loose? Or broken? Out board bearing gone? Lift the machine up and down, with the blade lifts, and watching for movement at that pivot point. The only movement should be pivoting. Axle Timken's should be loaded pretty tight. Reference rear axle in your parts book. The axle bearings and the outboard bearings carry the whole load of the machine.


I will check the bearings to see why it is leaking. In the end, I figure that a seal replacement--assuming nothing more than 68 years' usage is responsible--would allow me to go back to stock lubricants and likely outlast me. For the few hours we use this each month, though, we will keep the lube in there the same as what the last guy had before I bought it until we get out of our messy/wet NorthWest rainy winter weather. Besides that, it may take some doing to get the manuals😞
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Dec 19, 2019 12:51 AM
bursitis
Offline
Member
Send a private message to bursitis
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,085
Thank you received: 4
Reply to Brian.Hart:


I will check the bearings to see why it is leaking. In the end, I figure that a seal replacement--assuming nothing more than 68 years' usage is responsible--would allow me to go back to stock lubricants and likely outlast me. For the few hours we use this each month, though, we will keep the lube in there the same as what the last guy had before I bought it until we get out of our messy/wet NorthWest rainy winter weather. Besides that, it may take some doing to get the manuals😞
i used to make a mixture of grease and gear oil called Knuckle Butter. used it in the enclosed steering knuckles on 4wd trucks etc when the seals wouldn't hold oil any longer. now i use corn head grease because it flows better and stays put better also.

D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.

Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Dec 19, 2019 1:35 AM
Deas Plant.
Offline
Member
Admin
Send a private message to Deas Plant.
Location: Currently - DowNunda.
Posts: 7,010
Thank you received: 98
Reply to bursitis:
i used to make a mixture of grease and gear oil called Knuckle Butter. used it in the enclosed steering knuckles on 4wd trucks etc when the seals wouldn't hold oil any longer. now i use corn head grease because it flows better and stays put better also.
Hi, Brian Hart.
If you put the blade square across the machine and use both blade controls to lift the front end about 18" clear of the ground, you can then raise one side or the other of the rear of the machine by pulling on the OPPOSITE blade lift control to 'raise' that side of the blade. Have somebody watch the tandem case on the side that you are raising for any tilting movement in relation to the main frame.

The above trick works great for changing tires too.

Another quick and pretty reliable check is to stand back a bit behind the machine and check to see if the tandem cases and the rear wheels are parallel to the side of the radiator. If either or both appear to be 'toe-ed out' at the bottom, you have bearing problems in the tandem case pivot(s). Ignore this at your bank account's peril.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Dec 19, 2019 5:51 AM
oldbeek
Offline
Member
Send a private message to oldbeek
Posts: 781
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Brian Hart.
If you put the blade square across the machine and use both blade controls to lift the front end about 18" clear of the ground, you can then raise one side or the other of the rear of the machine by pulling on the OPPOSITE blade lift control to 'raise' that side of the blade. Have somebody watch the tandem case on the side that you are raising for any tilting movement in relation to the main frame.

The above trick works great for changing tires too.

Another quick and pretty reliable check is to stand back a bit behind the machine and check to see if the tandem cases and the rear wheels are parallel to the side of the radiator. If either or both appear to be 'toe-ed out' at the bottom, you have bearing problems in the tandem case pivot(s). Ignore this at your bank account's peril.

Just my 0.02.
Good explanation Deas. I had the same thoughts of what to look for but my old age brain wouldn't let me put it down. A loose tandem pivot is something you do not want to ignore.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Dec 19, 2019 9:11 AM
Deas Plant.
Offline
Member
Admin
Send a private message to Deas Plant.
Location: Currently - DowNunda.
Posts: 7,010
Thank you received: 98
Reply to oldbeek:
Good explanation Deas. I had the same thoughts of what to look for but my old age brain wouldn't let me put it down. A loose tandem pivot is something you do not want to ignore.
Hi, oldbeek.
When I first got into operating graders, back when I was 20 years old, I thought to myself that they were the most complicated and yet delicate pieces of construction machinery that I had ever been on and so I sought to learn as much about them as I could. This learning about graders helped greatly to foster and cement in my young mind the notion that if we EVER stop learning, we are DEAD, at least from the neck up.

I have tried to never forget any of that learning. ALL of what I post here about these old girls comes from past learning and experiences 'cos I don't have any manuals on them.

I once worked with one man who had been on the same Australian-built 17K - equivalent to 99E - series blade for 9 years, 4 for the previous owner and then 5 years for himself as an owner operator. He complained to me one day that the machine was getting hard to operate and kicking back a lot in the control box.

I asked him if he had ever adjusted any of it to counter the wear. He replied that there were no adjustments. I spent 2 hours with him and the machine on each of the next 2 nights, doing the adjustments and showing him how to do them. At morning break the next day, he said, "This is a different machine."

And he had been operating it for NINE years???????????????????????????????? He could really handle the machine but he didn't KNOW it.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Dec 19, 2019 11:35 AM
oldbeek
Offline
Member
Send a private message to oldbeek
Posts: 781
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, oldbeek.
When I first got into operating graders, back when I was 20 years old, I thought to myself that they were the most complicated and yet delicate pieces of construction machinery that I had ever been on and so I sought to learn as much about them as I could. This learning about graders helped greatly to foster and cement in my young mind the notion that if we EVER stop learning, we are DEAD, at least from the neck up.

I have tried to never forget any of that learning. ALL of what I post here about these old girls comes from past learning and experiences 'cos I don't have any manuals on them.

I once worked with one man who had been on the same Australian-built 17K - equivalent to 99E - series blade for 9 years, 4 for the previous owner and then 5 years for himself as an owner operator. He complained to me one day that the machine was getting hard to operate and kicking back a lot in the control box.

I asked him if he had ever adjusted any of it to counter the wear. He replied that there were no adjustments. I spent 2 hours with him and the machine on each of the next 2 nights, doing the adjustments and showing him how to do them. At morning break the next day, he said, "This is a different machine."

And he had been operating it for NINE years???????????????????????????????? He could really handle the machine but he didn't KNOW it.

Just my 0.02.
One of the first jobs I had after hiring in a LA County was to try to rebuild the control box on a 99E. All the mechanics there at that time told me they take the gears out and replace them even they don't look worn. It helps a little. I picked up a service manual and read how to turn to a new area on the bull gear. They had never been turned to the next key. Had it done in 3hrs. The Forman said I couldn't be done already. The superintendent had me teach a class. Within 1 1/2 years I was the shop forman . At 5 years I was fleet shop superintendent. My previous boss at a large fleet said just ask if you don't know. If nobody to ask, get a book and read up.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Dec 19, 2019 2:55 PM
Deas Plant.
Offline
Member
Admin
Send a private message to Deas Plant.
Location: Currently - DowNunda.
Posts: 7,010
Thank you received: 98
Reply to oldbeek:
One of the first jobs I had after hiring in a LA County was to try to rebuild the control box on a 99E. All the mechanics there at that time told me they take the gears out and replace them even they don't look worn. It helps a little. I picked up a service manual and read how to turn to a new area on the bull gear. They had never been turned to the next key. Had it done in 3hrs. The Forman said I couldn't be done already. The superintendent had me teach a class. Within 1 1/2 years I was the shop forman . At 5 years I was fleet shop superintendent. My previous boss at a large fleet said just ask if you don't know. If nobody to ask, get a book and read up.
Hi, oldbeek.
Sounds about right. Knowledge like that is no burden to carry around and you never know when you will need it or you can use it to help somebody else.

Back when I started learning about graders and their maintenance, it was almost impossible to get hold of the books for them. The company would buy a new blade, send it out on the job, the books would go into the office or the workshop and the operators never got to see them. So, it was all learned the hard way, by guess and by goof-up.

Funny thing was, even company mechanics didn't seem to know a whole about adjustments on blades, much like you mentioned - guess they never got to see the books either.

I learned by studying the machine, investigating what made it tick and how to make it tick better. There is a world of difference between operating a 'tight' blade and fighting a worn one.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Dec 19, 2019 10:10 PM
Showing 1 to 10 of 10 results
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

WARRACKNABEAL EASTER RALLY 2026

Chapter Nineteen

| Wheatlands Warracknabeal Agricultural Museum 34 Henty Highway, Warracknabeal 3393

Lake Goldsmith 127th Rally

Chapter Nineteen

| 1234 Carngham - Lake Goldsmith Road ​Lake Goldsmith VIC 3373

HIGRO JUBILEUMEDITIE!

| “De Domelaar” Gebr .V.d. Heiden Domelaarsweg 3 7475 MARKELO Netherlands

Chapter 2 AGM

Chapter Two

| Folds Farm, Godshillwood, Fordingbridge, Hampshire, SP6 2LU
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I also joined a year ago. had been on here a couple of times as a non-member and found the info very helpful so I got a one year subscription (not very expensive at all) to try it out. I really like all the resources on here so I just got a three year. I think its a very small price for what you can get out of this site."
-Jason N

Join Today!