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1947 D42T Electric conversion?

1947 D42T Electric conversion?

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jl628
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New to the group, I just acquired a 1947 D4. (D4 2T I believe) It seems to run well enough but the pony motor has issues. The seller thinks the mageto needs rebuilding but he hasn't really looked into it much. He's been pull starting it. I'm thinking about doing an electric conversion and have been looking at the forums for information. Lots of info there but I still have some questions. (btw, I am not sure how to search the discussion forums, if someone could tell me how, I would appreciate it.) I'm not sure about the starter gears, I see 11 tooth, 12 tooth, helix and straight gears, What do I need? Also, It appears that the 42Mt is the starter to go with but every thing I see so far shows a 24 volt 42Mt started being used. Why the 24 volt? These are readily available in 12 volt and Its a much more common voltage. That would make it much easier to add accessories, Lights, Stereo, A/C. Ok, just kidding about the stereo and a/C but lights seem like they might be desirable at some point. Is there a good reason not to go with a 12 volt 42MT? I've seem cost figures of up to $3500 to do the conversion but if I do it myself, I don't see how it can run that high.
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Wed, Jul 11, 2012 2:08 PM
drujinin
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On the top of the column on the front page is a "Sticky" on electric start conversions. A lot of good information in there on the subject.
Opinions are all over on the subject of electric starters on older machines, some say stick with the pony, its dependable and will start the main engine in cold weather. Others say that a GOOD running older machine will start without glowplugs by using a sniff of ether.
As far as 12v verses 24v, a couple things that come up is that a 12 volt system would need bigger cables to carry the current called for by the starter while minimizing voltage drop. A 24 volt system will spin the starter faster and longer for the same kw/hp size starter motor.
Lights can be had in 24v along with an aftermarket alternator to charge the batteries while running your stereo, amplifier and A/C. 👍
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Wed, Jul 11, 2012 5:56 PM
ol Grump
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Reply to drujinin:
On the top of the column on the front page is a "Sticky" on electric start conversions. A lot of good information in there on the subject.
Opinions are all over on the subject of electric starters on older machines, some say stick with the pony, its dependable and will start the main engine in cold weather. Others say that a GOOD running older machine will start without glowplugs by using a sniff of ether.
As far as 12v verses 24v, a couple things that come up is that a 12 volt system would need bigger cables to carry the current called for by the starter while minimizing voltage drop. A 24 volt system will spin the starter faster and longer for the same kw/hp size starter motor.
Lights can be had in 24v along with an aftermarket alternator to charge the batteries while running your stereo, amplifier and A/C. 👍
As long as you stick with Old Magnet's instructions you can't go wrong. To cut the hole in the flywheel housing, a carbide tipped hole saw and a husky 1/2" drill motor is the way to go.

I've used both the MT 42 and 50 starters in 12 volt. .the 50 is usually a few dollars cheaper. My reasoning was as I was retaining the pony and it was designed for 6 volt, an occasional use with 12 volts would be easier on it than 24 volts.
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Wed, Jul 11, 2012 9:17 PM
BillWalter
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As long as you stick with Old Magnet's instructions you can't go wrong. To cut the hole in the flywheel housing, a carbide tipped hole saw and a husky 1/2" drill motor is the way to go.

I've used both the MT 42 and 50 starters in 12 volt. .the 50 is usually a few dollars cheaper. My reasoning was as I was retaining the pony and it was designed for 6 volt, an occasional use with 12 volts would be easier on it than 24 volts.
As the late Fred Hedrick told me when I said I was going to paint my 2-TON yellow, "You can if you want to, But IT Won't Be Original". I retained the original color and painted it GREY.

You can cobble up an Electric Start if you want to, "But it won't be original" Bill Walter
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Fri, Jul 13, 2012 10:23 PM
Soapy
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If the former owner hasn't looked at the mag, pull the plugs, and put the plugs back on the wire ends, and spin the motor over, and see if you have spark. Look for a blue spark. Orange-yellow spark means the condenser is bad.Might be good to disconnect the grounding wire off the back of the on-off switch, in case it has a problem. No spark, remove the cap, and clean the points. Still no spark, then you can safely say the mag has an internal problem.
If you have spark, pour about a tablespoon of gas in one or both cylinders, put the plugs back in, and if it runs for a few revs, you should remove the pony carb, carefully disassemble it and give it a good cleaning, making sure all the passages are clean, and the float/needle &seat are clean and working freely.
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Mon, Jul 16, 2012 1:09 PM
jl628
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Reply to Soapy:


If the former owner hasn't looked at the mag, pull the plugs, and put the plugs back on the wire ends, and spin the motor over, and see if you have spark. Look for a blue spark. Orange-yellow spark means the condenser is bad.Might be good to disconnect the grounding wire off the back of the on-off switch, in case it has a problem. No spark, remove the cap, and clean the points. Still no spark, then you can safely say the mag has an internal problem.
If you have spark, pour about a tablespoon of gas in one or both cylinders, put the plugs back in, and if it runs for a few revs, you should remove the pony carb, carefully disassemble it and give it a good cleaning, making sure all the passages are clean, and the float/needle &seat are clean and working freely.
[quote="Soapy"]If the former owner hasn't looked at the mag, pull the plugs, and put the plugs back on the wire ends, and spin the motor over, and see if you have spark. Look for a blue spark. Orange-yellow spark means the condenser is bad.Might be good to disconnect the grounding wire off the back of the on-off switch, in case it has a problem. No spark, remove the cap, and clean the points. Still no spark, then you can safely say the mag has an internal problem.
If you have spark, pour about a tablespoon of gas in one or both cylinders, put the plugs back in, and if it runs for a few revs, you should remove the pony carb, carefully disassemble it and give it a good cleaning, making sure all the passages are clean, and the float/needle &seat are clean and working freely.[/quote]

Thanks, good information. When cleaning the carb, do I need to
Clean the jets and what's the best method for cleaning those little passages?
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Tue, Jul 17, 2012 2:53 PM
ol Grump
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Reply to jl628:
[quote="Soapy"]If the former owner hasn't looked at the mag, pull the plugs, and put the plugs back on the wire ends, and spin the motor over, and see if you have spark. Look for a blue spark. Orange-yellow spark means the condenser is bad.Might be good to disconnect the grounding wire off the back of the on-off switch, in case it has a problem. No spark, remove the cap, and clean the points. Still no spark, then you can safely say the mag has an internal problem.
If you have spark, pour about a tablespoon of gas in one or both cylinders, put the plugs back in, and if it runs for a few revs, you should remove the pony carb, carefully disassemble it and give it a good cleaning, making sure all the passages are clean, and the float/needle &seat are clean and working freely.[/quote]

Thanks, good information. When cleaning the carb, do I need to
Clean the jets and what's the best method for cleaning those little passages?
There's been a lot of discussion about cleaning up those carbs. .try a search for the thread. As for cleaning those small passages, I use the same set of tip cleaners that I use for oxy-actylene torches.
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Tue, Jul 17, 2012 8:37 PM
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