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1946 d6 4r .....

1946 d6 4r .....

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norcalisdank
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Hello acmoc, I just recently bought a 1946 D6 4R cable operated. First time dozer owner, so I have a few questions. Found a lot of spec info but not even one picture on the internet. A lot of 9U's but no 4 or 5R's. How rare are these tractors? What's the value of a 4R that runs? How great was the D4600 engine they ran in them? Some things to look out for that might need replacing? Any interesting facts? I'm replacing the ring gear at the moment... Thanks.
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Wed, Dec 18, 2013 1:27 PM
Deas Plant.
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Hi, Norcalisdank.
Well, let's remedy that, shall we? And, just for chuckles, let's throw in a couple of another beast that is probably WAY more rare than yours, a D6 9A - Yep, you read that right, a NINE A

[attachment=20884]Cat D6 4R series crawler_1_FL.jpg[/attachment][attachment=20885]Cat D6 5R X 2 remote controlled pulling JD 36 hillside harvesters - WHEATFIELD X Swishy_1_Acmoc.jpg[/attachment][attachment=20886]Cat D6 9A series Airborne hyd dozer_1A_GG_PW.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20887]Cat D6 4R pulling JD No36 sidehill combine harvester_1A_Acme.jpg[/attachment][attachment=20888]Cat D6 4R with inside-mount cable angle dozer_1_Acme.jpg[/attachment][attachment=20889]Cat D6 9A series Airborne hyd dozer_1_GG_PW.JPG[/attachment]

Just my 0.02.
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You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Wed, Dec 18, 2013 8:06 PM
Ray54
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Norcalisdank.
Well, let's remedy that, shall we? And, just for chuckles, let's throw in a couple of another beast that is probably WAY more rare than yours, a D6 9A - Yep, you read that right, a NINE A

[attachment=20884]Cat D6 4R series crawler_1_FL.jpg[/attachment][attachment=20885]Cat D6 5R X 2 remote controlled pulling JD 36 hillside harvesters - WHEATFIELD X Swishy_1_Acmoc.jpg[/attachment][attachment=20886]Cat D6 9A series Airborne hyd dozer_1A_GG_PW.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20887]Cat D6 4R pulling JD No36 sidehill combine harvester_1A_Acme.jpg[/attachment][attachment=20888]Cat D6 4R with inside-mount cable angle dozer_1_Acme.jpg[/attachment][attachment=20889]Cat D6 9A series Airborne hyd dozer_1_GG_PW.JPG[/attachment]

Just my 0.02.
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Welcome to all things Cat norcalisdank.Don't let the down under fella get you more confused than you were.Must be getting very hot and giving him heat stroke or something.After you get hydrated Deas start a new thread and enlighten us ,as you showed many nice Cat's .


But to the original question,R series D6's were not rare a tractor,but now who knows as they are well past 60 years old and many took that one way trip to China . The good news for you they are the same basic tractor as a U series D6.The engine is the main difference,and could be replaced with the later D318 as well as anything else.It may be getting hard to find 4600 engine parts new.

Having spend a few days in the seat of 4r 100,and the weak point is the master clutch.They are not in closed and dust is a major problem.I was taught to oil the linkages several times a day and when it had a build up of dust wash it off with diesel,and start over with oil.With to much dirt on the linkage have had them bind up and be able to release,but cleaning fix it right up.Cat used the same clutch on U D6's but inclosed it to keep dust out and it helped.The other thing learn how to engage the clutch without slipping ,or you will be adjusting it all the time. Hopefully there are many hours of us left in your tractor.Keep asking question some one will help.
Ray
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Wed, Dec 18, 2013 10:21 PM
rmyram
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Welcome,

I have 5r189, and there are pics of it on the ACME website, www.antiquecaterpillar.net , The previous comments are correct, the 4r is the wide guage (72") equivalent to a 9u, the 5r is the narrow guage (60")equivalent to an 8u, I have never had to adjust my clutch yet, but i don't slip it to much, i have totally rebearinged my transmission, and i scavenged some updated parts from a 9u tranny, the clutch is enclosed in a housing on my 5r and it is a low serial number. it uses the same dry clutch as the 8&9u's. the d 4600 i have runs great for it's age. make sure you have good thermostats or else it will slobber and puke crap out the exhaust all over your hood. make sure to check your oil bath air cleaners and clean them out once in a while. also be sure to check and maintain the oil level in the injection pump. it is separate from the main crankcase oil. if the steering levers are hard to pull while driving you will need to top up the booster oil level located under the fuel tank in the center at the back of the tractor. it is a big hex plug to open it, with a 1/8 npt level plug below it. also you need to lubricate the steering clutch and master clutch oil cups, the steering clutch ones are right by your feet below the seat, to little flaps that you lift and fill with 10 weight oil. is your blade use a rear mounted CCU or a front mounted CCU?

If you are leaving it idle. be sure to put the FNR lever in either Forward or reverse and place the transmission in neutral and engage the clutch.. if the tranny is in gear and the FNR lever is in neutral, clutch engaged the top shaft does not recieve proper lubrication.

their is a cltuch brake if you push the clutch lever all the way ahead, do not use this for stopping the tractor, use the foot brakes, or else you will be adjusting it allthe time, it is not designed to stop the tractor, only to stop the tranny when it has been idling in neutral.

When starting the diesel from cold, get the engine cranking, compression lever in start position until you get oil pressure. Diesel Fuel lever fully off, after oil pressure adn fuel pressure is achieved, move compression lever to run position. crank engine on compression, fuel lever off until you can feel heat in the head of the diesel engine, takes about 2 to 10 minutes (or more) depending on ambient temperature. once the head is warm, move the diesel fuel lever to half or full throttle, engine should start right away, if you are getting lots of white smoke, return diesel fuel lever to off position and continue to crank engine with no fuel.

I have never had to use ether to start my unit, While the pony is cranking the main i use the warm up time grease rollers, oil the steering clutches etc.

the pony can mag can give you fits, normally it is a point issue, clean the points and set gap to 12 to 14 thou. inspect the cap and check for carbon tracking and make sure the contacts are still touching the rotor. also a good idea to lubricate the felt pad on the follower for the points that follows the cam in the magneto. you can also grease the water pump on the both engines, they don't need to much but they do need greases. there are also grease zerks onthe final drives and the trackframe oscillation bushings. All my rollers are button head style grease, cat recommends a 00 grease for the rollers. find an alemite volume pump for greaseing.

you should also see if you can find a set of manuals for it,

you will need
d6 4r parts manual (4r1 up to 4r3633)
D4600 engine servicemans reference (d6 tractor, 212 grator, marine engine etc)
D6 4r/5r servicemans referance
d6 4r/5r operators manual

they are getting harder to find, but i have had luck buying manuals from members of this forum and the two ACME forums, The other ACME site is www.antiqueconstructionmachineryenthusiasts.com

good luck
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Thu, Dec 19, 2013 2:13 AM
ianoz
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Reply to rmyram:
Welcome,

I have 5r189, and there are pics of it on the ACME website, www.antiquecaterpillar.net , The previous comments are correct, the 4r is the wide guage (72") equivalent to a 9u, the 5r is the narrow guage (60")equivalent to an 8u, I have never had to adjust my clutch yet, but i don't slip it to much, i have totally rebearinged my transmission, and i scavenged some updated parts from a 9u tranny, the clutch is enclosed in a housing on my 5r and it is a low serial number. it uses the same dry clutch as the 8&9u's. the d 4600 i have runs great for it's age. make sure you have good thermostats or else it will slobber and puke crap out the exhaust all over your hood. make sure to check your oil bath air cleaners and clean them out once in a while. also be sure to check and maintain the oil level in the injection pump. it is separate from the main crankcase oil. if the steering levers are hard to pull while driving you will need to top up the booster oil level located under the fuel tank in the center at the back of the tractor. it is a big hex plug to open it, with a 1/8 npt level plug below it. also you need to lubricate the steering clutch and master clutch oil cups, the steering clutch ones are right by your feet below the seat, to little flaps that you lift and fill with 10 weight oil. is your blade use a rear mounted CCU or a front mounted CCU?

If you are leaving it idle. be sure to put the FNR lever in either Forward or reverse and place the transmission in neutral and engage the clutch.. if the tranny is in gear and the FNR lever is in neutral, clutch engaged the top shaft does not recieve proper lubrication.

their is a cltuch brake if you push the clutch lever all the way ahead, do not use this for stopping the tractor, use the foot brakes, or else you will be adjusting it allthe time, it is not designed to stop the tractor, only to stop the tranny when it has been idling in neutral.

When starting the diesel from cold, get the engine cranking, compression lever in start position until you get oil pressure. Diesel Fuel lever fully off, after oil pressure adn fuel pressure is achieved, move compression lever to run position. crank engine on compression, fuel lever off until you can feel heat in the head of the diesel engine, takes about 2 to 10 minutes (or more) depending on ambient temperature. once the head is warm, move the diesel fuel lever to half or full throttle, engine should start right away, if you are getting lots of white smoke, return diesel fuel lever to off position and continue to crank engine with no fuel.

I have never had to use ether to start my unit, While the pony is cranking the main i use the warm up time grease rollers, oil the steering clutches etc.

the pony can mag can give you fits, normally it is a point issue, clean the points and set gap to 12 to 14 thou. inspect the cap and check for carbon tracking and make sure the contacts are still touching the rotor. also a good idea to lubricate the felt pad on the follower for the points that follows the cam in the magneto. you can also grease the water pump on the both engines, they don't need to much but they do need greases. there are also grease zerks onthe final drives and the trackframe oscillation bushings. All my rollers are button head style grease, cat recommends a 00 grease for the rollers. find an alemite volume pump for greaseing.

you should also see if you can find a set of manuals for it,

you will need
d6 4r parts manual (4r1 up to 4r3633)
D4600 engine servicemans reference (d6 tractor, 212 grator, marine engine etc)
D6 4r/5r servicemans referance
d6 4r/5r operators manual

they are getting harder to find, but i have had luck buying manuals from members of this forum and the two ACME forums, The other ACME site is www.antiqueconstructionmachineryenthusiasts.com

good luck
Hi norcalisdank, Welcome to the forum . Going by the D4s built in the same era , There should be 10000 D6-4Rs , When 10000 were built the model changed toD6-5R . I think you could get normal ,and wide gauge ,in the same series .
It was not until Cat started the U series in 1947 That gauge was IDed by series . D6-8U for narrow gauge .D6-9U for wide Gauge ..
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Thu, Dec 19, 2013 3:59 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ianoz:
Hi norcalisdank, Welcome to the forum . Going by the D4s built in the same era , There should be 10000 D6-4Rs , When 10000 were built the model changed toD6-5R . I think you could get normal ,and wide gauge ,in the same series .
It was not until Cat started the U series in 1947 That gauge was IDed by series . D6-8U for narrow gauge .D6-9U for wide Gauge ..
What????
As previously stated the 4R is wide gauge and 5R is narrow gauge. Neither one got anywhere near 10,000 units.

To be exact: 5,515 5R's and 3,633 4R's.
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Thu, Dec 19, 2013 5:07 AM
rmyram
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here are some book numbers that should help guide you to what you need.

Ops instructions Form 7866

Parts book specific to 5r1 thru 5r5515 is form UE032255, replaces form 9005, sorry I don't have the form number for the 4r tractor (difference(I think) would be the final drive housing and track frames) tranny and engines would be the same.

for the engine servicemens reference

Form #30519 d4600 industrial, electric set, marine, d6 tractor, no 12 motor grader.

d6 tractor servicemens reference
form 7861-a
form 7861-b
form feo30027-04 (includes d6 4r,5r,8u,9u)

Also try to include some pics of 5r189 in her working clothes

the first three are from backfilling a water line,
the winter shot is my dad using it to drag me and my 9u home from the neighbours after I broke a piston in the 9u
the last is the day I brought it home to my parents (600 miles from my house) after purchasing it from the family of the original owner who bought it brand new from union tractor in lethbridge alberta in 1942, (the tractor is actually a 1941)

[attachment=20910]water system 125.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20909]water system 112.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20908]water system 083.jpg[/attachment][attachment=20907]P1060194.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20906]D6 5R homecoming.jpg[/attachment]
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Thu, Dec 19, 2013 7:04 AM
Ray54
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Reply to rmyram:
here are some book numbers that should help guide you to what you need.

Ops instructions Form 7866

Parts book specific to 5r1 thru 5r5515 is form UE032255, replaces form 9005, sorry I don't have the form number for the 4r tractor (difference(I think) would be the final drive housing and track frames) tranny and engines would be the same.

for the engine servicemens reference

Form #30519 d4600 industrial, electric set, marine, d6 tractor, no 12 motor grader.

d6 tractor servicemens reference
form 7861-a
form 7861-b
form feo30027-04 (includes d6 4r,5r,8u,9u)

Also try to include some pics of 5r189 in her working clothes

the first three are from backfilling a water line,
the winter shot is my dad using it to drag me and my 9u home from the neighbours after I broke a piston in the 9u
the last is the day I brought it home to my parents (600 miles from my house) after purchasing it from the family of the original owner who bought it brand new from union tractor in lethbridge alberta in 1942, (the tractor is actually a 1941)

[attachment=20910]water system 125.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20909]water system 112.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20908]water system 083.jpg[/attachment][attachment=20907]P1060194.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20906]D6 5R homecoming.jpg[/attachment]
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All the information about oil cups for steering clutch throw out bearings is good,but in this area all the oil cups were replaced by grease fittings when clutches were rebuilt as the "newer"tractors had . I can remember when it was done to my dads even older 2H D6.
Ray
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Thu, Dec 19, 2013 9:03 AM
rmyram
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Thanks Garlic Pete,

it is a bates blade with a BeeGee pump, it still has the original cutting edges on it, and the face of the blade has never been scoured off. the blade was added in the 50's, it was originally equipped with a large PTO belt pulley, I have the pulley and gear box, unfortunately the pulley is shot, but all the steel bits are there. the 5r doesn't have any stump pans or a hardnose so I keep it strictly for dirt work.

the 9u is sitting out back with the other 3 9u's I have, I still have enough parts to make two good running 9u's. one dry clutch, one wet clutch, one hydraulic 6a angle blade, one cable 6a angle blade.

the 9u with the wet clutch and hydraulic 6a blade has brand new undercarriage all the way round and a d6n winch, it will be a good tractor when I get time to fix it, priorities right now are definitely not cats, but they aren't going anywhere, and they don't cost me any money if I'm not fixing them. I want to build a shop before I tear into overhauling them as we don't get enough good weather to do it according to the budget (ie, it might see multiple winters apart before the finance department clears the cheques to get it back together)


Here are a couple more pics, one is the sprocket on the 9u, one is the 9u the day I was bringing it home with the other three 9u's I bought as a package deal, the other two are of the 5r coming off the truck when I brought it home, you can see the blade is almost all the way up so it's not like it is an overshot but it lifts fairly high.

[attachment=20914]june 2010 040 resized.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20913]Hauling cats Oct 2010 020.jpg[/attachment][attachment=20912]Hauling cats Oct 2010 008.jpg[/attachment][attachment=20911]Hauling cats Oct 2010 007.jpg[/attachment]
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Thu, Dec 19, 2013 11:46 AM
rmyram
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the pics came up in the reverse order that was unloading the tractor, when loading them I keep the blade as close to the deck as possible to cushion my landing when it overcenters, but the ground drive blade can't lift fast enough in reverse to clear the beaver tail and I didn't want to rip the traction bars off the tail as it was a borrowed truck and trailer.
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Fri, Dec 20, 2013 7:34 AM
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