1944 D7 4T Cat

Throw some stopleak in it and it will cure anything but a cracked head. I agree with your logic, if the radiator doesn't have oil in it, most likely not a cracked head. Would it be the and of the world if you had to put a head on it? If so, just keep draining the pan every time.

The popping out of gear is the transmission interlock linkage between the main clutch lever and the transmission is out of adjustment or a pin has fallen out. Check adjustment by putting transmission in first gear and snapping main clutch in. Then attempt to pull gearshift into neutral. It should not be able to move into neutral. If it doesn't move into neutral, good but keep checking by keeping up the pressure on the shifter as you slowly move the clutch lever forwards. It should stay in gear until the clutch pops out. Lots of them have enough slop in the clutch linkage that the lever flops forward enough to release the transmission lock before the clutch disengages. Usually a little work on pins and clevises etc will tighten things up enough to stop that.

The steering clutch could be oily in which case washing the clutch be putting some solvent in the bottom of the clutch compartment and driving the tractor forward and backwards a little while while pulling the steering clutch on that side could clean the clutches enough to restore proper operation. If it does require replacement, I believe the same clutch is used on the D6 and D7, so there are quite a few used ones available or new should be available. The clutch can be unbolted and lifted out the top of the compartment to replace.

The biggest headache on the old tractors is the flexible links called thermoids connecting flywheel and clutch. Those things can let go suddenly and leave you sitting dead in a spot until the clutch top cover is removed and the links replaced. There is usually a lot of smoke and dust when they go out, but no real damage other than the links themselves.

[quote="ccjersey"]Throw some stopleak in it and it will cure anything but a cracked head. I agree with your logic, if the radiator doesn't have oil in it, most likely not a cracked head. Would it be the and of the world if you had to put a head on it? If so, just keep draining the pan every time.

The popping out of gear is the transmission interlock linkage between the main clutch lever and the transmission is out of adjustment or a pin has fallen out. Check adjustment by putting transmission in first gear and snapping main clutch in. Then attempt to pull gearshift into neutral. It should not be able to move into neutral. If it doesn't move into neutral, good but keep checking by keeping up the pressure on the shifter as you slowly move the clutch lever forwards. It should stay in gear until the clutch pops out. Lots of them have enough slop in the clutch linkage that the lever flops forward enough to release the transmission lock before the clutch disengages. Usually a little work on pins and clevises etc will tighten things up enough to stop that.

The steering clutch could be oily in which case washing the clutch be putting some solvent in the bottom of the clutch compartment and driving the tractor forward and backwards a little while while pulling the steering clutch on that side could clean the clutches enough to restore proper operation. If it does require replacement, I believe the same clutch is used on the D6 and D7, so there are quite a few used ones available or new should be available. The clutch can be unbolted and lifted out the top of the compartment to replace.

The biggest headache on the old tractors is the flexible links called thermoids connecting flywheel and clutch. Those things can let go suddenly and leave you sitting dead in a spot until the clutch top cover is removed and the links replaced. There is usually a lot of smoke and dust when they go out, but no real damage other than the links themselves.[/quote]

If the price is right, a new head would not be the end of the world, but are good heads readily available?

Agree with you on the interlock should be an easy fix.

Steering clutch is no big deal either, probably just worn out from being a farm cat as they tend to do the vast majority of turning in one direction.

Biggest thing is the engine. Don't want to buy it if it is not easily fixable (I.E. readily available, reasonably priced parts).

Thanks for the corrections.

I expect you are right about the track frame mounted dozer being a lot easier on the alignment and making a difference in the life of the links.

Did a little looking on Google for D8800 heads - found none.

If this cat were to have a cracked head, are replacements available? Not even going to bid on it if a cracked head renders the tractor a parts machine...

If the only symptom is a little water in the oil, it is unlikely to be a cracked head .
A cracked head will usually result in a pressurising of the cooling system.
Perhaps water out the exhaust on start up.
It is no help to you, but I have several heads here.
I am sure if you looked hard enough heads would be found in USA.

There are heads out there. Still plenty of parts D7 machines around if you search.

A question for those who follow the antique Cat market in their area:

What would be the going price for a Cat like this in your area?