1942 D6 Hoover Overshot

Welcome and may I make a recommendation.

It is always good to include your location in your profile so in case you need someone with experience that may wish to check this Cat out for you, they will know where your are. You just may be fortunate to have such a person in the same town you are or nearby.

I would not be in a hurry to change injectors. If the machine has set for a while it might just need some good work and run enough to burn the old fuel up and run on new a bit. These engines are designed to work. Idling a lot or working at a lower RPM tends to gum things up and even causes slobbering on the exhaust stack. I would work the heck out of it for a few hours making sure the temputature gets up there good and then see how it runs. I'm sure others will chime in. We all look forward to pictures. Overshot loaders are not real common and even more scarce in the D6 size.

[quote="Masic"]Hello all and bare with me, I am new to the forum.

Just picked up this unit and am looking for any direction to get her in restored condition. It runs well and starts up pretty good for it's age and with 8557hrs (lol counter probably rolled over a few times) but there is a pop in the exhaust every now and then like a misfire????

The foot controls are only activating at almost full pedal movement so am wondering if there are any checks I can do to see if anything needs adjustment or replacement.

The hand controls feel good and positive.

The main engine throttle is easy on apply and stiff as all hell for movement to drop the rpm.

Main clutch starts to grab within the first 3" (at the top) of hand lever pull and feels positive.

The transmission shifts well and gives no indication of issues.

Forward/reverse lever also feels good on shifting.

The hydraulics are noisy and a little weak but the blade does lift and has power to life a heavy load but not as smooth as one would think.

I haven't ran one of these before so I cannot compare it to any history of my own for operating. I will post pictures as soon as I learn how

I would like to change out the injectors only because my thinking is newer is better (are they still available?) or should disassemble? I have an old crack tester for injectors and could make it work somehow. Are these injectors adjustable like found in old tractors?

I will need track rollers x2 for now and more later as they wear (are they still available?)

The slider chain is decent and seems to have a lot of meat left in them but the pads are starting to thin out. None are cracked or broken but the leading edges are chipped. Sprockets look pretty new and in good shape. The idlers were welded and recut.

The intake manifold is rusty and am worried that the pony exhaust tube may be perforated to the main engine manifold (am only guessing that it should be a solid pony tube within the intake manifold for intake air preheat reasons)

To make this post shorter I will end it here and hope for the best[/quote]

Since you have the tester, you could certainly test the injectors, but I think I would hold off as others have mentioned already. I think I would start by getting it hot and adjusting the valves. First we should check that your tractor really is a 1942. Can you post a serial number off engine block or rear end of tractor above drawbar support. The 4R and 5R tractors had the D4600 engine with high pressure injectors which can be easily identified by the fuel return manifold that is attached to the top of each injector and connects to a line returning to the tank. The newer tractors (1947 on) were the U series and have the D318 with low pressure capsule type injectors which are obvious because there is only a fuel supply connection and no return manifold. Another obvious difference is removing the old style takes a special socket with a hole on the side. These can be made by cutting a 3/4 drive socket in half and welding in a piece of pipe before trimming out the window for the fuel line nipple.

I think you want to see the high pressure injectors crack at about 1750 psi and of course atomize fuel well and cut off clean with no dripping. Bill Walter is a ACMOC member who rebuilds and adjusts those old high pressure injectors professionally.

Other general notes,
injector pump has its own oil supply, Check on side fill with motor oil.
Pony motor pinion also has its own oil supply. Check plug on side, fill plug on top, motor oil or ATF if you have trouble with the pinion grinding even while holding the clutch lever back during the shift. This oil also lubes the pony camshaft gears, magneto drive etc, so its important for more than the pinion.

Brakes probably should not be adjusted so tight they catch right at the top, but sounds like yours can be tightened some. Work through the covers on each side of steering booster under the seat. Also a good idea to drain both steering clutch compartments and the main clutch since they may have oil accumulated from the engine or gear compartment seals leaking.

I've added my location (Sundre Alberta Canada) and have added 2 photos in my album. Thanks for all of your replies. I'm going to get started working on this machine today. Let me know if you want additional photos. I will search for the s/n right away

interesting, where did you pick it up? i have 5r189 and bought it in cremona from the original owners. i grew up down there. I still have a brush cutter for it down there that hasn't been relocated yet


i know some folks in your neck of the woods that are into old cats but aren't on the forums.

I had a 9u that had an odd pop in the exhaust, turned out to be a bent push rod (i suspect ether bunny caused it) i wouldn't worry about injectors yet. change the thremostats and it will run at proper temp, really helps clean them up. working under load helps as well. change the injection pump oil and the pony engine oil as has already been stated. my old 5r starts good at all temps above and below freezing without ether, and it has a significant amount of blowby. get the main engine cranking on the pony with no fuel and on compression, when the head of the diesel is nice and warm to touch, crack the diesel fuel to about 1/2 throttle and she should fire right up. turn the pony gas off and let it run out of fuel, never use the mag kill switch.

your undercarriage should be interchangeable with the 8u/9u series so keep an eye out for one of them as they can be a part source for you. i have a 9u that is partially dismantled for parts if you need some, there is usually a pickup between my place and yours about 3 or 4 times a year, if your patient, freight can be arranged pretty cheap.

the 4r is the wide guage unit so is a little bit more desirable than the narrow guage 5r series.

if you uploaded pics to your gallery, add them to your post so we can see them. there is an instruction sticky in bulletin board operations http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?288-How-to-Post-Pictures-on-the-BB

I was wondering if that is the one that was on Kijiji awhile ago near Edmonton. If it is it looked fairly nice in the pictures

interesting, where did you pick it up? i have 5r189 and bought it in cremona from the original owners. i grew up down there. I still have a brush cutter for it down there that hasn't been relocated yet


i know some folks in your neck of the woods that are into old cats but aren't on the forums.

I had a 9u that had an odd pop in the exhaust, turned out to be a bent push rod (i suspect ether bunny caused it) i wouldn't worry about injectors yet. change the thremostats and it will run at proper temp, really helps clean them up. working under load helps as well. change the injection pump oil and the pony engine oil as has already been stated. my old 5r starts good at all temps above and below freezing without ether, and it has a significant amount of blowby. get the main engine cranking on the pony with no fuel and on compression, when the head of the diesel is nice and warm to touch, crack the diesel fuel to about 1/2 throttle and she should fire right up. turn the pony gas off and let it run out of fuel, never use the mag kill switch.

your undercarriage should be interchangeable with the 8u/9u series so keep an eye out for one of them as they can be a part source for you. i have a 9u that is partially dismantled for parts if you need some, there is usually a pickup between my place and yours about 3 or 4 times a year, if your patient, freight can be arranged pretty cheap.

the 4r is the wide guage unit so is a little bit more desirable than the narrow guage 5r series.

if you uploaded pics to your gallery, add them to your post so we can see them. there is an instruction sticky in bulletin board operations http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?288-How-to-Post-Pictures-on-the-BB