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1942 D4 carburater repair for pony

1942 D4 carburater repair for pony

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Cat Kid
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The carburetor on my '42 d4 pony has a sticky float and I have cleaned it over and over but it seems to keep getting stuck. I don't know if I should buy a rebuild kit or find a cheap easy way to fix it. Does anyone have an idea on how to fix this? Anything will help and thank you.
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Thu, Jul 1, 2010 8:56 AM
ccjersey
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I am assuming you mean it sticks and floods the engine? Does it do this while running or just drain the tank into the oil after you shut off the pony motor? It's very common for the tank to drain into the oil even with a properly functioning carburetor float and valve, so the recommendation is to always stop the pony motor by shutting off the valve from the tank and let it burn all the gas it will suck out of the carburetor bowl before it stops.

If it floods while running and If the tank and lines between it and the carburetor are clean, go ahead and buy the kit! If not, clean them first and see if not having a steady supply of trash to lodge in the needle and seat will help.

Is your float in good shape? Adjusted properly?
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Thu, Jul 1, 2010 10:21 AM
ol Grump
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Reply to ccjersey:
I am assuming you mean it sticks and floods the engine? Does it do this while running or just drain the tank into the oil after you shut off the pony motor? It's very common for the tank to drain into the oil even with a properly functioning carburetor float and valve, so the recommendation is to always stop the pony motor by shutting off the valve from the tank and let it burn all the gas it will suck out of the carburetor bowl before it stops.

If it floods while running and If the tank and lines between it and the carburetor are clean, go ahead and buy the kit! If not, clean them first and see if not having a steady supply of trash to lodge in the needle and seat will help.

Is your float in good shape? Adjusted properly?
You might also want to take a real close look at the carb's inlet valve and seat. It there's roughness or dirt in/on either, it can cause a problem. If the needle valve is the rubber tipped type and the rubber tip is missing or worn, there's the cause. If it's solid brass, look for small flat or worn spots about 1/16" from the tip.
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Thu, Jul 1, 2010 8:11 PM
zootownjeepguy
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Reply to ol Grump:
You might also want to take a real close look at the carb's inlet valve and seat. It there's roughness or dirt in/on either, it can cause a problem. If the needle valve is the rubber tipped type and the rubber tip is missing or worn, there's the cause. If it's solid brass, look for small flat or worn spots about 1/16" from the tip.
If you've tried cleaning it and it still sticks, the only other option is to replace the needle & seat. Don't forget to check the float for leaks also. Sometimes the float will get a small crack or pinhole and partially fill with fuel causing the needle to not close completely. Clean the float and shake it, if there's fuel in it you will feel it and maybe hear it too. Shaking it will also build a little pressure inside the float so you can find the leak. Fuel can be removed by blowing air into the pinhole and holding the float with the pinhole to the bottom so the fuel will drain. Brass floats can be repaired by soldering the pinhole but be extremely stingy with the solder because it will add unwanted weight to the float. I usually solder the hole and immediately wipe off most of the molten solder with a rag.
Good luck!
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
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Fri, Jul 2, 2010 9:46 AM
64farmboy
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Reply to zootownjeepguy:
If you've tried cleaning it and it still sticks, the only other option is to replace the needle & seat. Don't forget to check the float for leaks also. Sometimes the float will get a small crack or pinhole and partially fill with fuel causing the needle to not close completely. Clean the float and shake it, if there's fuel in it you will feel it and maybe hear it too. Shaking it will also build a little pressure inside the float so you can find the leak. Fuel can be removed by blowing air into the pinhole and holding the float with the pinhole to the bottom so the fuel will drain. Brass floats can be repaired by soldering the pinhole but be extremely stingy with the solder because it will add unwanted weight to the float. I usually solder the hole and immediately wipe off most of the molten solder with a rag.
Good luck!
When I rebuilt the pony carb on my D2 5U12142 it was flooding and I assumed the float had a hole in it and was holding the needle down but to my surprise the float is made out of cork, is this normal? it seems to work fine once I cleaned out the many years accumulation of crud.
Restored 1970 ford tractor,1931 Model A PU streetrod, lifted 1978 F150, 1971 VW bug, antique chain saws
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Fri, Jul 2, 2010 6:41 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to 64farmboy:
When I rebuilt the pony carb on my D2 5U12142 it was flooding and I assumed the float had a hole in it and was holding the needle down but to my surprise the float is made out of cork, is this normal? it seems to work fine once I cleaned out the many years accumulation of crud.
Joe--my D2 float was cork--i took it off and dropped it into a can of gas and it sunk.
I dried it out and coated it with gas tank sealer and it now floats
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Fri, Jul 2, 2010 11:39 PM
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