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1938 D2 5J813 Only Hitting on 3 Cylinders --

1938 D2 5J813 Only Hitting on 3 Cylinders --

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Muchbroker
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Guys, I got my D2 started this weekend and it ran really good except that it was only hitting on 3 cylinders most of the time. It would run pretty smooth but just didnt have full power. It also had whitish/gray smoke out the exhaust except when it would finaly hit on all four cylinders, then the smoke would clear right up and the engine would even speed up a bit.

I took this picture of the fuel injector lines thinking the P.O. must have tried to straighten out the curls on it trying to fix something.
[attachment=13351]Fuel Injector Lines.jpg[/attachment]

The dozer has excellent fuel pressure and almost pins the needle at an idle.

I am wondering how I would check to see what cylinder is mis-firing and what some possible fixes might be.

Thank you all again for the help and ideas you have provided.

muchbroker
Casper WY
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Wed, May 30, 2012 6:00 AM
Mike Meyer
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I noticed that photo of the straightened injector line the other day and thought it weird, my first thought was ditch it and get a good one, because the length of the pipe influences the injector timing, and you have a variation off original spec already, but looking at my D2 5J Parts Number Book that #4 line isn't looped in circles like #1,2 and 3, it just has a "V" bend in it, so your length should still be OK. As the motor is running loosen off the lock nut on each injector one at a time, where the fuel line attaches to the injector, just undo it a turn or two, you should see diesel start leaking past the nut and that cylinder quit working till you tighten the nut up again, the 3 cylinders that are working OK will make a different engine sound immediately they loose fuel.

You might just have air in one line, or a dirty injector tip, try loosening off the fuel lines first, be careful of high pressure diesel if you start removing the injectors, you can get it into your skin pretty easy. There's lots of experts on here smarter than me.
Good luck
Mike
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Wed, May 30, 2012 7:09 AM
7upuller
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
I noticed that photo of the straightened injector line the other day and thought it weird, my first thought was ditch it and get a good one, because the length of the pipe influences the injector timing, and you have a variation off original spec already, but looking at my D2 5J Parts Number Book that #4 line isn't looped in circles like #1,2 and 3, it just has a "V" bend in it, so your length should still be OK. As the motor is running loosen off the lock nut on each injector one at a time, where the fuel line attaches to the injector, just undo it a turn or two, you should see diesel start leaking past the nut and that cylinder quit working till you tighten the nut up again, the 3 cylinders that are working OK will make a different engine sound immediately they loose fuel.

You might just have air in one line, or a dirty injector tip, try loosening off the fuel lines first, be careful of high pressure diesel if you start removing the injectors, you can get it into your skin pretty easy. There's lots of experts on here smarter than me.
Good luck
Mike
Hey Much,

Pull the side cover off the injector pump, make sure all four pumps are working and moving up and down correctly. They stick on occasion from lack of use. They free up pretty easy with some loose juice and a little assistance. If they are working, make sure you bleed each bleeder behind the injector pump.-glen
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Wed, May 30, 2012 7:56 AM
ol Grump
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Reply to 7upuller:
Hey Much,

Pull the side cover off the injector pump, make sure all four pumps are working and moving up and down correctly. They stick on occasion from lack of use. They free up pretty easy with some loose juice and a little assistance. If they are working, make sure you bleed each bleeder behind the injector pump.-glen
I looked at that pic and I'm not so sure that line didn't get shortened sometime during it's life. I remember reading a post some time ago back about the length and bore of fuel lines making a difference in how an engine ran. If I remember the story correctly, the problem was that someone had swapped out one line. .and while it looked correct it had a slightly different inside diameter than the rest of 'em.

All good advice about bleeding the system. .if the miss is tracked to #4, I'd check the spray pattern on the injector first. .and it that looked good I'd try to find an original line. By all means, keep hands and fingers clear of the spray pattern. .the high pressure WILL inject fuel into or cut the heck out of anything soft like flesh!!
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Wed, May 30, 2012 8:56 PM
Dan Pratt
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Reply to ol Grump:
I looked at that pic and I'm not so sure that line didn't get shortened sometime during it's life. I remember reading a post some time ago back about the length and bore of fuel lines making a difference in how an engine ran. If I remember the story correctly, the problem was that someone had swapped out one line. .and while it looked correct it had a slightly different inside diameter than the rest of 'em.

All good advice about bleeding the system. .if the miss is tracked to #4, I'd check the spray pattern on the injector first. .and it that looked good I'd try to find an original line. By all means, keep hands and fingers clear of the spray pattern. .the high pressure WILL inject fuel into or cut the heck out of anything soft like flesh!!
It looks like the injector line may have been put on backwards. Mine is original,but it has the curvy part near the pump, then straighter toward the injector.
Dan
Dan22 - 1936 22 Narrow, 1937 22 Wide, D2 5J, D4D
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Thu, May 31, 2012 2:21 AM
shovel man
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Reply to Dan Pratt:
It looks like the injector line may have been put on backwards. Mine is original,but it has the curvy part near the pump, then straighter toward the injector.
Dan
I'd go with the other thread, check to see that the fuel pump plungers are moving up and down fully, that bent fuel pipe is it
restricted due to the bend at the nut? remove the injector is there water seeping into the pre cup?

and could you post some more pic's of the electric starter set up on the starting engine especialy from the dash side
as I would like to fit one on my 5J D2.

shovel man.
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Thu, May 31, 2012 4:28 AM
zootownjeepguy
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Reply to shovel man:
I'd go with the other thread, check to see that the fuel pump plungers are moving up and down fully, that bent fuel pipe is it
restricted due to the bend at the nut? remove the injector is there water seeping into the pre cup?

and could you post some more pic's of the electric starter set up on the starting engine especialy from the dash side
as I would like to fit one on my 5J D2.

shovel man.
I would first check the Injector Pump Plungers (easy to do, just remove the cover plate) as mentioned before. You could also have a Valve sticking. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to remove the valve cover and check for sticky valves. Give each valve stem a few drops of oil while you're at it too. 👍
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
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Thu, May 31, 2012 7:20 AM
Muchbroker
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Reply to zootownjeepguy:
I would first check the Injector Pump Plungers (easy to do, just remove the cover plate) as mentioned before. You could also have a Valve sticking. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to remove the valve cover and check for sticky valves. Give each valve stem a few drops of oil while you're at it too. 👍
I'll meet back up with my dozer this weekend and cant wait to try all of your ideas. I truly appreciate everyone's expertise and great support.

I'm a little nervous to remove the fuel block cover just because I had heard horror stories about how sensative a diesel fuel block can be. I'll do it but will go into it slow.

I may know where a "parts" dozer is and will see about buying the #4 fuel line if available. Otherwise I will bleed it and possibly swap ends with it.

I'll take some more pictures of the 12 Vdc electric start, their isnt anything to see on the dash, you just use a set of jumper cables and hook negative to the dozer frame and then touch the positive to a terminal pad on the starter motor.
I know you can mount a battery but everyone I have seen eventually ends up corroding away the fender under the battery mount.

I will definitely report back with my outcome.

Thanks again--

Muchbroker
Casper WY
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Thu, May 31, 2012 7:53 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to Muchbroker:
I'll meet back up with my dozer this weekend and cant wait to try all of your ideas. I truly appreciate everyone's expertise and great support.

I'm a little nervous to remove the fuel block cover just because I had heard horror stories about how sensative a diesel fuel block can be. I'll do it but will go into it slow.

I may know where a "parts" dozer is and will see about buying the #4 fuel line if available. Otherwise I will bleed it and possibly swap ends with it.

I'll take some more pictures of the 12 Vdc electric start, their isnt anything to see on the dash, you just use a set of jumper cables and hook negative to the dozer frame and then touch the positive to a terminal pad on the starter motor.
I know you can mount a battery but everyone I have seen eventually ends up corroding away the fender under the battery mount.

I will definitely report back with my outcome.

Thanks again--

Muchbroker
Casper WY
Stick at it, and it will hopefully just be something simple, take some spare gasket paper and a 9/16" hole punch with you when you next visit the tractor in case you need to make another gasket for the injector pump cover, those injector pump units don't mix well with dirt and water!😆 If you haven't already, I'd remove the rocker cover and just check all your valves are working correctly, you might have a stuck valve, instead of injector problems?
regards
Mike
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Thu, May 31, 2012 8:22 AM
zootownjeepguy
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
Stick at it, and it will hopefully just be something simple, take some spare gasket paper and a 9/16" hole punch with you when you next visit the tractor in case you need to make another gasket for the injector pump cover, those injector pump units don't mix well with dirt and water!😆 If you haven't already, I'd remove the rocker cover and just check all your valves are working correctly, you might have a stuck valve, instead of injector problems?
regards
Mike
Have no fear! If you remove the cover plate from the side of your injector pump housing you won't disturb the fuel system. You'll see the lifters and plungers for each pump and the rack. Make sure the plungers are free. If one of them is sticky it can keep the rack from moving and you could loose your throttle control, and the ability to shut down the engine.

Your symptoms sound more to me like a valve that's not quite seating all the way, because a stuck plunger usually keeps the rack from moving. I would check both to be sure though. If you use penetrating oil (loose juice) be sure to follow with oil. Penetrating oil evaporates quickly and is not the best lubricant.
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, May 31, 2012 9:02 AM
Muchbroker
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Reply to zootownjeepguy:
Have no fear! If you remove the cover plate from the side of your injector pump housing you won't disturb the fuel system. You'll see the lifters and plungers for each pump and the rack. Make sure the plungers are free. If one of them is sticky it can keep the rack from moving and you could loose your throttle control, and the ability to shut down the engine.

Your symptoms sound more to me like a valve that's not quite seating all the way, because a stuck plunger usually keeps the rack from moving. I would check both to be sure though. If you use penetrating oil (loose juice) be sure to follow with oil. Penetrating oil evaporates quickly and is not the best lubricant.
Made it up on the mountain this past weekend, rained and snowed both days but inbetween it was beautiful.

I started the D2 right up, it took ~18 minutes for the diesel to start up and run. I let it warm up good and it was definately only hitting on 3 cyclinders. I pulled the cover off the fuel pump and all four little plungers were shiny clean and just stroking for all their worth. I put the cover back on making sure the gasket was all in tact.

I then loosened the nut on the #4 (far right) fuel line right where it connects to the injector. No diesel squirted out but it really pulled the engine down to the point I thought it was going to stall. This was with less than 1 full turn on the nut. I quickly tightened it back up and went to the #3 fuel line. Just began to loosen it and it did the exact same thing.

Since this was contrary to what I was expecting I stopped there. I went ahead and ran the dozer and pushed some brush piles and dirt around for an hour or so and parked it. It would only on occasion hit on al 4 cylinders.

looks like I better get a manual and look into pulling the valve cover.

Be interested in your thoughts on why just barely loosening the fuel line nuts caused the engine to pull down.

Thank you all for your advice and support, genuinely appreciated.

Muchbroker
Casper WY
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Tue, Jun 12, 2012 9:04 PM
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